steamraiser2
Member Since: 27 Mar 2010
Location: Lytchett Matravers
Posts: 136
  
|
My D3 has started growling on over run over the last couple of months and is steadily getting worse. The front wheel bearings have been changed out very recently and the front diff is fine. My suspicion is that the transfer box is the cause. Its done 300000+ so I can't complain other than it is the first major component to need replacement. 
Is it possible to change the box "on the drive" ? I can get it up in the air a fair way but don't have access to a lift. Doable or not doable? Can you get at all the bolts etc? 2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
|
 2nd Dec 2018 11:55 am |
|
|
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
  
|
Top bolts may be a bit fiddly on the drive, it isn’t major heavy, just awkward. Think from memory is a couple of plugs plus the wiring harness holder clips, 2 drive shaft flanges, earth strap if it’s 07 on and a few 13mm head bolts. I’d do one on the drive. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
|
| 2nd Dec 2018 2:35 pm |
|
|
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
 
|
300,000 miles on original engine,! Your doing somethink right 
Note to self, something, something  you are, you are,
Andi.
Last edited by hugeviking on 5th Dec 2018 7:24 pm. Edited 1 time in total
|
| 2nd Dec 2018 7:12 pm |
|
|
steamraiser2
Member Since: 27 Mar 2010
Location: Lytchett Matravers
Posts: 136
|
Apart from the usual service and wear items its pretty much all original. A dozen or so sets of pads, half a dozen sets of discs, suspension joints, belts and two batteries are pretty much it. Oil and filter changes at 7500 intervals (Castrol) is probably the secret. Major failures have been an alternator at 30000 (warranty) and a gearbox repair about 150000 miles ago.
Some of the glowplugs died years ago so I rely on an Altox initiated FBH in very cold weather but generally it goes first turn without issues. Still average 28.3 mpg when running light and around 23 when towing, which is most of the time. Not a breath of smoke.
I regularly tow on the continent which may result in me having to replace it given that most European recovery insurance is based on vehicle value for return to the UK. I'm struggling to find anything I can rely on.
The TD5 disco I had before did 253000 before selling it and I let my 300 tdi disco go at 208000. That went on to 323000 with the new owner.
I am tempted to repair my transfer box rather than replace it, more out of sentiment than common sense, because I really fancy getting up to half a million on the , more or less, original drive train.  2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
|
| 4th Dec 2018 9:27 am |
|
|
steamraiser2
Member Since: 27 Mar 2010
Location: Lytchett Matravers
Posts: 136
|
Discomadness wrote:Top bolts may be a bit fiddly on the drive, it isn’t major heavy, just awkward. Think from memory is a couple of plugs plus the wiring harness holder clips, 2 drive shaft flanges, earth strap if it’s 07 on and a few 13mm head bolts. I’d do one on the drive.
Thanks for that advice, I'll have to get organised and give it ago. My son is about to volunteer although he doesn't know it yet  2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
|
| 4th Dec 2018 9:30 am |
|
|
SantaCruz
Member Since: 22 Jan 2012
Location: Salisbury, Wiltshire
Posts: 564
|
I changed mine on the drive. You'll need to remove the front prop shaft, disconnect rear prop shaft, support the transfer box in a jack, remove gearbox cross member (have fun with the 4 bolts), disconnect various plugs, lower the jack as far as you can down and undo the bolts. As mentioned the top two are awkward. Once bolts are out the box will slide off.
Simples
Si Si
2016 Disco 4 SE Tech
2019 Fiesta ST3
2021 GBS Zero
|
| 4th Dec 2018 7:36 pm |
|
|
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
|
If you drop the centre bearing bolts on the rear prop the transfer box should come back and down without taking the cross member out. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
|
| 4th Dec 2018 8:01 pm |
|
|
SantaCruz
Member Since: 22 Jan 2012
Location: Salisbury, Wiltshire
Posts: 564
|
But you have to remove the cross member to remove the transfer box... as it's bolted to it.. Si
2016 Disco 4 SE Tech
2019 Fiesta ST3
2021 GBS Zero
|
| 4th Dec 2018 9:17 pm |
|
|
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
|
I had a good look at this the other day. You only remove the bolt on the mouting. The crossmember stays in place, you have to support the gearbox with a jack and block of wood. The transfer box will come back 2/3” and then drop down fine. I don’t think you’d have to remove the downpipe either. There’s Definately no need to remove the crossmember. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
|
| 8th Dec 2018 4:02 pm |
|
|
steamraiser2
Member Since: 27 Mar 2010
Location: Lytchett Matravers
Posts: 136
|
Thanks for all the helpful advice. Got a bearing kit on order so I'll have a go at overhauling it over the Christmas/New Year break when I am not using the Disco. 2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
|
| 10th Dec 2018 10:24 am |
|
|
grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6266
 
|
this could be very cool project to follow
pictures please lots of them 
G
|
| 10th Dec 2018 10:27 am |
|
|
Baz2466
Member Since: 10 Sep 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 5
|
Hi, I’m getting a noise like a bearing is failing and I’ve changed the front wheel bearings and the front diff, and it’s not the prop shafts, and the noise is still there, having read this post about removal of the transfer box, did you manage it on your drive and did it cure the problem?
|
| 28th Feb 2021 2:35 pm |
|
|
steamraiser2
Member Since: 27 Mar 2010
Location: Lytchett Matravers
Posts: 136
|
Yes and no. In the end the transfer box was done on a two post lift rather than on the drive. Made life a lot easier. As the lift use was time limited I got another transfer box and swapped it rather than refurbing it. Biggest issue was clearing the codes but all in all easier than I expected. 2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
|
| 19th Mar 2021 2:53 pm |
|
|
itguy
Member Since: 30 Dec 2009
Location: Melton Mowbray, Leics
Posts: 181
|
Apologies for asking a question not related to the title of the thread, but prompted by the 300k miles done... what castrol oil do you run?
|
| 19th Mar 2021 3:34 pm |
|
|
steamraiser2
Member Since: 27 Mar 2010
Location: Lytchett Matravers
Posts: 136
|
These days its on Magnatec 5w30 A5 StopStart. Its been on Magnatec in one incarnation or another according to the service history from more or less new. Certainly I've used nothing else in my ownership .
(12 years)
I do change it often, usually around 7500 mile intervals. It works hard and tows a trailer frequently and it does lots of long trips as it is back and forth to Europe on a regular basis. Or at least it was pre Covid. Its often a full 3500kg load too.
So lots of clean oil pays dividends. I wouldn't consider anything other than Magnatec. 2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
|
| 19th Mar 2021 5:18 pm |
|
|
