mzplcg
Member Since: 23 Jun 2009
Location: Gone
Posts: 1087
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| towing socket & car battery |
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Does anyone know, when the tintent is connected to the 12S socket on the car (non-main sites) if the power taken from the car comes from the main battery or the second (Optima) battery please?
If it comes from the car, is there an easy way of changing it to the 2nd battery at all?
Thanks. Dom
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 17th Aug 2009 2:58 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
  
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The towing electrics will come from the Main battery, so the perm live will eventually drain the battery.
Not sure if there's some intelligence in there to stop it completely draining the main battery or not?
I charged my Trailer battery up, linked from my Aux using the Traxide setup and the Anderson connector at the rear of the D3.
I'm sure that you could probably splice a line from the Aux all the way back to the white socket to try to avoid draining the main battery?  Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 17th Aug 2009 4:53 pm |
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pjv
Member Since: 22 Sep 2006
Location: Northwest
Posts: 184
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Bodsy - I'm waiting delivery of traxide with anderson plug etc - is installation of feed to back of D3 ok or is there major trim removal etc? Might have to order trim clips etc from TLO as previous experience of 'pings' is too stressful!
As I understand Traxide feeds power from both batteries until voltage drops and then aux battery takes full load. Has this worked ok fro you?
Ta
PJV
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| 17th Aug 2009 6:18 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
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copied from other mail I'd sent elsewhere....
So then I priced up the major components (simpler, but easier to get hold of) but this didn't give me any intelligence to share some of the load from the main battery. Remember the Yellowtop is only 55Ah, but at least being Gel, it's much more usable than an equivalent lead acid battery.
The components price including the copper cabling etc, came to slightly less than the traxide kit, but as I'd never had the D3 trim off before to such an extent, preferred the traxide setup that was all ready to go and one less thing for me to worry about.
Now we got a good price on the group buy, but we did suffer from import tax, which some people have not suffered from when bought and shipped individually (depends on the depot I think!).
You will have to find the 'other' hole through for the twin cable from the engine bay, as the one that is in the instructions is for an Auto, not a Manual (yet another good reason to buy an Auto  )
There is a thread on it soemwhere or Tim (drivesafe) will be able to tell you by now.
So there's loads of options, but I went for the SC-80LR + FPC.
SC-40 is good, offers the same functionality, but only good if you know that you won't want anything more than 30amps to the twin sockets, or that you won't want to connect an additional battery at some point in the future. others bought the SC-40 and really wish they'd bought the 80 for that very reason.
TPSE is the Twin sockets system that goes with the SC40 or SC80 & it will give you twin sockets to the rear of the Disco. Good for the simplicity of the cabling, but I'd spend the extra few £ and also order 2 x LR 12v sockets from TLO as it blends in better. Just be aware that the traxide sockets are good for 16amp, I'm not sure if the LR ones are 10 or 15amp (I assume 15amp TBH)
Then you can get the FPC (Full Power Combined) which has higher rated cables and can only be used with the SC80, This gives you the benefit of the two always powered sockets, + the extra Anderson connector to the back (or you coiuld add two more sockets instead if that suits your requirement better)
I use the Anderson connecter when towing my trailer as I also have 115Ah battery in the trailer & the Traxide charges both Aux (car) and Aux (trailer) with no problems.
Rear anderson connector is hidden when you have the rear towing cover on.
The install took me best part of a day and that's because I'd never taken the car apart before & me & Gilmore were constantly checking with each other on the instructions before removing anything or making any major cuts in the supplied cables!
Anyway, that's about the main part of it, give me a call if you want more detailed info
pjv yes, this setup worked great for me. Anderson connector on a cable from the trailer (each end of the canle to the D3, they can be sourced from e-bay and I just used a chep set of jump leads fpr the connecting cable (cut off & 'andserson'd'). then an additional cable from Trailer Anderson into the battery box Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 17th Aug 2009 7:19 pm |
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pjv
Member Since: 22 Sep 2006
Location: Northwest
Posts: 184
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Bodsy - I thanks must learn to use 'search' 
Sounds like pings are a certain so I'll get prepared. I ordered the 40 so hope I can't find need for more than 1 battery or I'm going to be peeved. But since we're canvas rather than tintent feel reasonably secure.
Ta
pjv
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| 17th Aug 2009 7:33 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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I'm canvas too, but the 'camping trailer' has an extra battery & this years camping trip to France was soooo much easier towing a Sankey full of camping stuff rather than the roofbox & bootfull of stuff we had last year to Italy 
Oh and I'm a bit confused, you want the SC-40 for the Anderson connector at the rear or the twin rear sockets? Don't think you can have both with the SC-40? (but could stand to be corrected) Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 17th Aug 2009 7:48 pm |
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pjv
Member Since: 22 Sep 2006
Location: Northwest
Posts: 184
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mmm- it's me that's confused but nothing unusual there! Spent so much time looking at 80 & 40 options that I've got muddled
checked and your correct -40 only does twin in car sockets which is what i remember ordering! Am really hoping I wont regret scrimping. Wish I'd have seen group buy but didn't realise that I needed a taxide then.
Do you have/are you happy with yellow top optima as this is next purchase?
pjv
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| 17th Aug 2009 9:40 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Yellowtop, yes have it and am happy. It's one of very few that can handle the d3's high power charging capabilities Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 17th Aug 2009 10:40 pm |
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mzplcg
Member Since: 23 Jun 2009
Location: Gone
Posts: 1087
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Yellow top is also one of the few which can handle a lot of abuse and still come back for more. Been using them for years in boats and big car audio installs. Massive CCA figure of about 750 cold cranking amps - the current delivery bit, but I have had them hold 12.2 volts even when booming in a 3KW sound system. I have tested quite a few others for car audio stuff but nothing except an Oddysey comes close to a yellow top.
Also, if you want a cheaper alternative, look at the blue tops. 110 quid on the bay. Same thing but marinised. They deliver slightly less CCA but have equally good deep cycling abilities as the yellow top. Unless you plan on a 3kw audio install in your tintent a blue top would be more than plenty. The other bonus is they have the 5/16th terminals as well as the main ones. Handy for connecting smaller cables to.
@BODSY - thanks for the very useful (re) post above. I didn't manage to find that with a search either . I'm thinking an Anderson set up would be best for me now as we visit quite a lot of sites without mains hook up. This way I "know" I'm only draining the yellow top.
Cheers. Dom.
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| 18th Aug 2009 9:07 am |
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