StornowayStu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 331
  
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So I've done an all round disk and pad and shoe change on the LR using Bodsy's Bible. At the moment the fuse is pulled on the EPB and the shoes adjuster is all the way in. A couple of questions for those who have already been this way and maybe have some tips/tricks/gotchas that weren't in the bible....
I'm aware that too much stress and screeching can kill the actuator and makes the dealership smile so hoping mine isn't already toasted...
-- should I reinstate the fuse before doing the adjuster ? I do have a tool to put the EPB into mount/latch/unjam mode - should I do any of those ?
-- after the physical adjustment is done, as these are new shoes I need to do the bedding in procedure which sounds scary as I am worried I might end up tearing up the EPB actuator or the new shoes or both. Book says enable the bedding in mode then perform 10 runs where you use the EPB to bring the LR to a stop. I read it as get the LR up to about 25mph then foot off the gas and use the EPB to bring to stop. Pause, repeat until done. When doing this, did you just use the EPB alone or did you help it out with footbrake ?
Given the nightmare I had getting the rear seized disks off in the first place I want to ask the dumb questions up front. Measure twice, cut once is a truism that I have learnt in the passing of years 
Thanks!
-- Stuart
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 10th Aug 2012 4:40 pm |
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SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1145
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Hi Stuart.
If they have been screeching before you renewed everything, use the unjam, or at very least the mounting mode.
This will put the handbrake cables to their maximum length, so the adjustment can be carried out correctly.
(you will obviously need the fuse in for this).
once adjusted correctly with the cogged wheel & allen bolt, as per bodsy's, you can then put in latching position. It doesn't really matter if you adjust with the fuse in, or out.
As for bedding in. The mode stops all the main brakes from applying when you pull the handbrake switch, (which they would normally do). In bedding in mode raise speed to 20mph, just pull the handbrake switch up & hold to stop the car. Don't worry if it seems to take a long time to stop the car, as it applies the handbrake gradually until it is virtually stopped, then they bite fully. Try not to overheat the handbrake by keep bedding in time & time again quickly, allow a distance for things to cool off.
I usually find about 6 or so pulls seems to get them wokring nicely. Then just drive over 30mph to come out of bedding in mode.
Once everything has cooled off, I personally drive down the road without applying the brakes much & after a run, check the disc centre (where the handbrake shoes would rub) with a non contact thermometer to check they don't rub when not applied. (You can hold your hand on the wheel by the wheel nuts, but check it's not too hot!)
regards
Steve
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| 10th Aug 2012 5:01 pm |
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StornowayStu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 331
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for the tips. I did have some screeching not long after I bought the LR so I did the adjustment only which seemed to fix things for a while. Then on a typical Texan summer day with the heat at 105F the rear shoes appeared to lock on and even the manual release wouldn’t free the wheels. Had to have the car dollied back to my house where my neighbor and I spent five hours freeing things up on each side. Whether the shoes were already toast when I got the car I can't say, I suspect a third party brake shop not familiar with the odd hybrid rear brakes didn't do what they should have done. And didn’t admit they didn't know how. Take the money and run
I pulled the fuse because the actuator I suspect kept trying to release or latch and release the seized shoes and I'm aware of the plastic gears fragility.
I do have a non contact IR thermometer and I used that a couple of times after replacing the shoes to confirm that we were fully wound in and not grabbing the new disks - I wish I had thought of that after I made the original adjustment to fix the original screeching but hindsight is a wonderful thing
The book says 10 iterations or until the car decides it is done - how do you know you're done at 6 or any other earlier number - or is that the voice of experience ?
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| 10th Aug 2012 5:16 pm |
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SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1145
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 Because I'm doing quite a few every week.
I reality, just as the vehicle comes to a stop you can feel the handbrake come on & pull the back of the car down sharply when they are starting to grip well.... the first few times you try it, they don't do that, just slow you a bit.
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| 10th Aug 2012 5:30 pm |
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StornowayStu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 331
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Appreciate the tips. 
As cool as the EPB is, I still wish they'd just used a regular old handle
Last edited by StornowayStu on 10th Aug 2012 6:14 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 10th Aug 2012 5:35 pm |
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StornowayStu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 331
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SteveNorman wrote: you can feel the handbrake come on & pull the back of the car down sharply
Ahh I remember that feeling when I tried to move off with the rear shoes seized on which started this whole thing 
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| 10th Aug 2012 6:12 pm |
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jacko
Member Since: 12 Sep 2011
Location: manchester
Posts: 11
 
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I have fitted new shoes as per the bible all went well untill bedding them in on the 5th pull of the switch the amber (P) light started flashing and there was a lot of bongs and bings now i have just the red (p) flashing the handbrake only works when car is moving bringing it to a stop but wont come on when stationary
took it to my inde who cleared faults except one that wont clear
Electronic parking brake latching failure, emergency release as been activated
They have said the cable will have to be re calibrated but cant do it till september
Any advise ? i would love to sort this myself
cheers
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| 10th Aug 2012 10:14 pm |
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