Member Since: 26 Jul 2010
Location: Near Dijon
Posts: 127
Yes, but the temperature is not realy the same at this point (exhaust pipe, entry of the turbo).
The EGT ccould be 800°C at this point, not realy (I expect) in the front timing cover
Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Highlands
Posts: 191
Excellent. Can it be added to the Wiki? That way everybody can find it.
Dave2005 SE Manual Cairns Blue
Faultmate MSV2
Series 2 - long gone
RR Classic long gone.
Disco1 believe its still going as a farm vehicle in France.
1st Jul 2012 5:22 pm
chrisbowler
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: UK WALES
Posts: 176
Great write up - can you show a picture of the drill in place!!!
Personally I would rather lift the bodyshell - I agree that is not a practical DIY option but from a garage perspective comes with significantly less risk and is a great deal easier to do - especially as several other jobs can be done for the same labout charge. Underseal, chassis wash and anti corrosion, rear brake pipes, anti roll bar bushes, rear fuel belt and check cross over pipe.
Chris BowlerChris Bowler
D3 2005 EXPEDITION
D2 Challenge Vehicle
300 TDi Spare car
107" TD5 Comp Safari Motor
1st Jul 2012 9:27 pm
gecko_fr
Member Since: 26 Jul 2010
Location: Near Dijon
Posts: 127
Sorry, I don't have more pictures. It was difficult to think to take pictures... I have missed some and take them when I fit the parts on the car...
If I had some tools to lift the bodyshell, I could chose an other solution, but...
Member Since: 14 Apr 2012
Location: Sheffield Yorkshire
Posts: 27
This is a brilliant description and will help many I've fitted a few turbos and couldn't find anything as good as this so I did it blind well done... The only thing I did different was the drilling part I just struggled with a nice short spanner (or 2) (with the body on by the way) thanks for sharing this...
3rd Jul 2012 10:40 pm
robbo770
Member Since: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 2294
Outstanding work,
feeling the pain in the arms and back just looking at the photo's; JOB WELL DONE
Member Since: 30 Jul 2010
Location: solihull
Posts: 298
brilliant write upthanks for sharing,i am just now on my knees praying that my turbo holds up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!gone not forgotten 2 classics
gone forgotten 2 p38s
current d3 se 2006 td standard for now
19th May 2013 8:25 am
METAL MONSTER JUNK
Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 378
Helping a friend out this afternoon swap his D3 turbo.....
Introducing the MMJ "Ho's-Foot" turbo removal tool!
Click image to enlarge
13mm socket with an old rounded off 8mm 1/4" drive socket welded to the side.
It works a bloody treat!
Click image to enlarge
If anyone needs one making then I'll dig some more old sockets out and it's yours for the price of postage!
26th Jul 2015 2:59 pm
trev 1
Member Since: 09 Sep 2014
Location: Seaton, Hull
Posts: 212
Just changed my turbo and that's the same way I undid the turbo to manifold nuts, could not believe that they came off ok, thought they would have been seized solid, most of the other nuts i.e. turbo to front pipe had no flats left on them. it's a nice feeling when it's all done and back together. Just come back from the weekend off with caravan and it's the first time we have not had (engine system fault) (special programs off) and in to limp mode.
26th Jul 2015 3:50 pm
giacomo.m
Member Since: 25 Apr 2012
Location: Roma
Posts: 171
Hi Metal Monster Junk
beautiful and great idea to solve a big problem
kindly but you may have some detailed photo of your " Ho's-Foot " turbo removal tool ?
in particular what is the new measure of the drive socket welded to the side ?
thank you
Giacomoex Defender 90 300 Tdi -ora Toyota HZJ71
27th Jul 2015 9:20 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Very neat way of making your own crows foot from spare parts. 8)
Handy tools to have and I use my set with an impact reasonably often.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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