Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
Location: world
Posts: 1213
Cheap options for emergency whinching available?
I normally never really "offroad" more as a steep gravelpath or such. But last week in Portugal I found someone stuck-in-the-mud & needing help. Trying to help them, got stuck too Surface was slightly inclined but covered in fine dry dust. Not slippery to walk on, but the car went sideways into the mud like it was on ice. I didn't have any whinching means, so called a towtruck... Would like to have some simple means of whinching.A full electric whinch would need a bumper as well, and that would cost €€€... I have seen a small electric whinch, with a nodge to fix it over the ball of a towbar. This seems not to shift much though
Now the handwinch things, with bands or steel cables, they can be fixed to a towbar or the odd tree or such. But does it shift a D3 from the mud ???
14th Aug 2012 4:44 pm
scotty15
Member Since: 27 May 2012
Location: Alfreton
Posts: 68
I am looking into the same thing but I have not got stuck yet. The best option I have found are these.
Andy06 reg disco 3 HSE MY 06. Sat nav ,fridge, LR phone kit, rear passenger climate,
BAS remap
Wiggs BT phone exchange unit and 3 flash indicators enabled
14th Aug 2012 4:54 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
remember though you need some hefty power cables to run a winch
you can also use a hi-lift jack as a winchDuncan
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14th Aug 2012 5:58 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
Yeh you can use a wire rope hoist or even a pull lift, providing the weight rating is right (something over 4500KG is gonna be best) and you aren't going to have a heart attack while pumping it.
The only problem with a pull lift is that when the chain runs out, you either need to be out of trouble, in a position where the vehicle is not going to slide back down to where it was or in a place where you can tie the vehicle off to stop it moving, reposition the device and carry on.
BUT to be honest I would not use either of these items. The reason being that with a winch/remote, you can get yourself in a place of safety while it is under strain. With the pull lift or wire rope hoist you have to be there to pump it, which leaves you right in the line of fire if a shackle or recovery point lets go.
where is nick wiv his turney log winch when you need him.....
With a bit of sense and mechanical sensitivity I wouldnt worry too much about using a turfor as a winch same principle as the hi lift jack.... F@*#ng hard work thoDon’t worry it is supposed to sound like that...honest
14th Aug 2012 6:19 pm
Dan_NL
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
Location: world
Posts: 1213
DiscoDunc wrote:
remember though you need some hefty power cables to run a winch
you can also use a hi-lift jack as a winch
I was thinking to use a trailerplug to put in the socket and use this as a power supply, but then I read in the specs even a small winch takes 120 amps... One needs to run dedicated powerlines directly to the winch And Duncan, where do you fix these electric winches on the rear of a D3/4, any photo's ?
J@mes, I agree : its a lot better to stay clear of 'harmsway' .. But where I got stuck the worsed problem was the shear remoteness and the depth of the canyon which made 3G reception impossible. The towtruck guy told me the local firebrigade does have 27Mc scanners. Thats something I'll get for shure : citisensband radio!
Scotty15 ; there are also cable winches as used on boattrailers. Some are quite hefty and can pull 5000Kg. But I wonder if these ratched mechanisms will stay locked, or suddenly let go
14th Aug 2012 6:33 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
you can run 35mm cable from the main battery down the chassis rail to the rear bumper and connect to a 170amp anderson connector. the cables can run 240 amps, but the 170 amp anderson seems to do ok when winching.
anderson connector can be seem to the left of the winch tray underneath the reflector
Click image to enlarge
Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
14th Aug 2012 8:50 pm
Dan_NL
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
Location: world
Posts: 1213
Duncan, this really looks like a good solution . I considered using the fixingpoint of the towbar, but got no further as a direct fixing of a whinch to it. Daft idea, because it would get really filthy and be extremely vulnarable. Your 'steel box' seems to cover all odds... Although your buildup looks to be friendly on the old purse, it is still too much for my recent mishap. For once every two year, I cannot be driving around with a steel box fitted... And putting it in the trunk would do just as good as the advice the LR manual gives on the front towhook cover once it was deep into the mud.. "..remove cover before odffroading.." Yeah, great I read a bit on the web and found J@mes remarks quite usefull. It turns out a 'Hi-Jack' has only a short stroke, but not the 'unleashing' effect a steelcable can have . This youtube footings are quite instructive
This fits into the 2" tow hitch reciever and can be fitted in a few seconds.
Click image to enlarge
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14th Aug 2012 10:29 pm
Dan_NL
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
Location: world
Posts: 1213
Navigator, so all options are covered. No matter if there is a fixed or detachable towhook But still, too much for me. I 'll dig into the 'Hi-Jack' option ; that investment balances the odds that I'll ever need it in the first place. Your perfect solutions would only lure off the beaten track, looking for a reason to play with the new goodies
Thanks anyway for sharing your expertise
14th Aug 2012 10:51 pm
leeds
Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 4314
SB 175 Anderson connectors are rated at 175 amps continuous current use. They will take 1,000 amps for about 8 seconds.
Most winches on maximum current draw will pull somewhere in the region of 400-500 amps max. Anderson connectors can cope with this load for short periods of time.. If you are likely to be running a winch at max current draw then in general terms better to double line so halve the load on the winch rope which is safer and drastically reduces current draw. OK it takes a bit longer to set up and doubles the winch time, however if you are not in a competition then it is not important especially since it is safer.
If mounting an Anderson connector outside vehicle use a dust cover and an isolator switch.. The standard isolator switch are rated 100 amps continuous or 500 amps for 30 seconds. OK there are 200 amp isolator switches available. Note various comprises have to be made.
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Surface was slightly inclined but covered in fine dry dust. Not slippery to walk on, but the car went sideways into the mud like it was on ice. I didn't have any whinching means, so called a towtruck... 
Would like to have some simple means of whinching.A full electric whinch would need a bumper as well, and that would cost €€€... I have seen a small electric whinch, with a nodge to fix it over the ball of a towbar. This seems not to shift much though 
And Duncan, where do you fix these electric winches on the rear of a D3/4, any photo's ?
Although your buildup looks to be friendly on the old purse, it is still too much for my recent mishap. For once every two year, I cannot be driving around with a steel box fitted... And putting it in the trunk would do just as good as the advice the LR manual gives on the front towhook cover once it was deep into the mud.. "..remove cover before odffroading.." Yeah, great 
I read a bit on the web and found J@mes remarks quite usefull. It turns out a 'Hi-Jack' has only a short stroke, but not the 'unleashing' effect a steelcable can have 
But still, too much for me. I 'll dig into the 'Hi-Jack' option ; that investment balances the odds that I'll ever need it in the first place. Your perfect solutions would only lure off the beaten track, looking for a reason to play with the new goodies 
