Member Since: 13 Jun 2015
Location: Reading
Posts: 17
Thanks for the excellent post, which guided me nicely to the problem. The symptoms I had were compressor starting and stopping normally (sneezing before starting, and sneezing shortly after stopping) and the car working normally on the road. As soon as i tried to raise or lower, it would throw a dashboard message, normal ride height only
In my case, the black orange wire to the front cross link valve was broken - BEHIND THE BUMPER, under the intercooler bottom hose. I managed to fix it from the front of the car with the bumper removed. 3 wires in the loom were crushed onto a sharp chassis edge and corroded to blue dust. Fixed the wire and hey presto......all back to normal.
Note, the wires for the front RHS ride height sensor also run through the same loom so you might get fault codes relating to the RHS front height sensor if the wires for these are damaged in the same way / location under the intercooler.
We generally use a much less nice term to describe the release of air from the compressor circuits.
The air release is so that the compressor upon restart, starts up under no load - that is not against any pressure in the system, or at least reduced pressure.
Thanks for the update regarding your success finding the problem. It is great that you were successful and nice to hear the news of your success as well.
Finding broken or corroded conductors is probably the most difficult troubleshooting task in any vehicle, let alone a Land Rover - you are to be complemented for your persistence. There may be lots of red lights but there are no error codes saying "broken wire".2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
14th Jun 2015 1:07 am
cardicowboy
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
Repeat issue, not same cause!!!
Good afternoon,
I too am suffering with persistent suspension faults.
2006 2.7TdV6 HSE
In total I have... serviced the Hitachi compressor with a service kit, replaced the compressor with a younger model, still a Hitachi, serviced that.
Replaced the 60A fuse under the bonnet.
Swapped out the 70A replay under the bonnet.
Patched a pinhole in the air reservoir.
Replaced both rear height sensors,
Replaced both front height sensors.
Now the compressor starts for a few seconds, then stops, and I get a "bong" and suspension fault, normal height only.
Having read this thread I want to check the wiring, but, are the connections on the LH for a LHD, and RH for a RHD? I know the valve block is on the RH.
Also, does anybody nearby have a Nanocom they would be willing to plug in for me?
I'd love to buy one, and an AMK, but funds won't allow for a while.
3rd Feb 2016 5:28 pm
cardicowboy
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
Update
Managed to remove the nearside (LH) inner arch liner last night (started raining immediately as soon as I removed it!)
This morning I could see no damage to the loom anywhere. I agree with runebelune though, that piece of chassis is right in the b#$**dy way.
I have disconnected the battery for many minutes, but the compressor starts up for a few seconds, knocks off, then starts again for a few seconds and faults out with a pleasing "bong"/"suspension fault".
The good news is though SWMBO has finally relented and agreed to let me buy an AMK but with limited funds.
This afternoon
I am going to service the compressor again with an even newer kit and see what happens.
Any thoughts?
Please?
4th Feb 2016 4:50 pm
snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
Can't really help you cardicowboy but I got a full amk kit from maltings off road for £408
4th Feb 2016 8:29 pm
pandj
Member Since: 15 Jan 2015
Location: Herts
Posts: 20
Yet another vote of thanks to those who have contributed to this thread ........ saved me buying a new crossover valve, Guys -Thanks! I had the broken/chafed wire about 50mm away from the terminal plug exactly as one of the foregoing pics showed. Sus. fault light coming on amber whenever I hit the raise button (Quite often, as I do a lot of off-road stuff) which got worse over a few days until it came on all the time!
The fault showed left front valve, and the wire involved was blue/black. Spliced in a new section, end of problem!
Yes, much easier access when the cross-member is removed, and only three bolts to do so.
9th Mar 2016 9:05 pm
eluijten
Member Since: 19 Mar 2011
Location: Hechtel
Posts: 198
Had the same problem on mine...apparently now for the second time.
About a year ago, I brought in the car to my local LR indy. Had the valve block on the front changed for a new one, but that apparently did not solve the issue. It took them more than a day to fix it.
Until last week same issues again. took away the EPB circuit as well, EPB did not release (no screeching, just electrical) . Spent about 4 hours yesterday with a friend of mine, to try and figure out the EPB electrical issue. No success....until we decided to check the connections behind the front wheel arch....
Unknown to me, turns out that a year ago my LR dealer must have already had a feast down there and eliminated completely the blue connector....but, without sealing the overlays correctly, there has been water ingress and one of the 60Amp cables was completely corroded away again...Not a good fix from their part a year ago...
Hopefully our repair will last longer...
6th Feb 2017 9:18 am
winaje
Member Since: 21 Apr 2012
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 27
Importantly, it should be noted that from 2007 on, the loom does not run through the left front wheel arch. Also the intrusion horn that is shown unbolted in the photos is welded on from 2007.
Once I find the location of the loom inside the cabin, and the spot where the wiring is broken, I'll update the thread with the information and pics (not hosted on photobucket)Regards, Will Church
29th Jul 2017 11:40 pm
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Seems the photo's are not visible anymore.
I did upload them to the Gallery so they are back.2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
30th Jul 2017 6:57 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
winaje wrote:
Importantly, it should be noted that from 2007 on, the loom does not run through the left front wheel arch. Also the intrusion horn that is shown unbolted in the photos is welded on from 2007.
Once I find the location of the loom inside the cabin, and the spot where the wiring is broken, I'll update the thread with the information and pics (not hosted on photobucket)
The connectors are above and below the LH headlight (from sitting in the vehicle)
30th Jul 2017 11:38 am
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 496
runebelune wrote:
And does anybody know what this piece of metal is? I can't see why it’s there, and I don't want to remove it since I don't know. But removing it would make the workspace much better
thanks,
Rune
You can happily remove that 'outrigger' I've had both of mine off, facilitate cleaning and painting them and the chassis. I'm not sure as to their purpose, but I think they're there to protect the body when off roading.
30th Jul 2017 2:53 pm
Gazjoe
Member Since: 04 Jun 2016
Location: Tiverton, Devon
Posts: 6
In relation to these 3 connectors, where in the photo of the whole wheel arch are they please?
See Globetrotter448 post a couple above re details - connector now under under left front headlight on newer production. Left is when sitting in vehicle on the same side as where the steering wheel is in Europe and North America.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
23rd Mar 2018 10:37 pm
Gazjoe
Member Since: 04 Jun 2016
Location: Tiverton, Devon
Posts: 6
Thank you bbyer, I know what I will be doing this morning then lol
24th Mar 2018 10:28 am
DerrekL
Member Since: 01 Aug 2016
Location: Bathgate
Posts: 34
Globetrotter448 wrote:
winaje wrote:
Importantly, it should be noted that from 2007 on, the loom does not run through the left front wheel arch. Also the intrusion horn that is shown unbolted in the photos is welded on from 2007.
Once I find the location of the loom inside the cabin, and the spot where the wiring is broken, I'll update the thread with the information and pics (not hosted on photobucket)
The connectors are above and below the LH headlight (from sitting in the vehicle)
I have a 2007 RRS (RH drive) and have the N/S/F inner liner off (from the pictures it is exact same as the Disco 3 setup) but still cannot see the 3 connectors above/below the headlight. How do I access these connectors?
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
........ saved me buying a new crossover valve, Guys -Thanks! I had the broken/chafed wire about 50mm away from the terminal plug exactly as one of the foregoing pics showed. Sus. fault light coming on amber whenever I hit the raise button (Quite often, as I do a lot of off-road stuff) which got worse over a few days until it came on all the time!
