Member Since: 07 Sep 2011
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 6
Front heating blower fault.!!!!!
Help!!!!!!!!!!
I have read the topics on here regarding the faults related to the fwd blower not working. Relay issues etc.
However I have swapped out the relay nil fix. I have checked blower motor is working properly and it is. My issue is when you have the sys in auto the front blower doesn't work. In manual mode only the rear blower operates. In manual if the selector knob is turned fully counter-clockwise, no lights on around knob, and you select one notch clockwise to give one light the motor kicks and then stops. Like the power was supplied and immediately removed. From then on nothing else happens unless you do the same again with the selector. Anybody else had this issue or any advice to be offered?!?!?!?
Help or advice much appreciated.
20th Sep 2011 8:59 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Tried the built-in HEVAC self-test?Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 07 Sep 2011
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 6
Didn't know there was a self test you could do. Can you tell me how this is done?
Cheers!
20th Sep 2011 6:41 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Here the self test procedure:-
"With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself."
HTH
Darrell
20th Sep 2011 6:49 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Member Since: 07 Sep 2011
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 6
Ok, so I have done the self test.....econ light flashes a few times then goes out. After switching ignition off and back on no light indicating faults but front blower still doesnt work. I have tried swapping headlight washer relay again and still it doesnt want to work. Any other ideas from here?!?!?
20th Sep 2011 7:09 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Hmm, flashing ECON light indicates problems but the re-cal should sync the motors if possible.
Try running the full test again and if the ECON light still flashes again then it looks like the previous re-cal was unsuccessful which may mean that you have an actuator problem.
Going back to the original issue with the blower:
The blower is installed in the air inlet duct, below the cabin air filter, and consists of an open hub, centrifugal fan powered by an electric motor. Operation of the blower is controlled by the ATCM, using the blower relay in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) and the blower control module. The blower control module is installed in the air inlet duct downstream of the blower, where any heat generated during operation is dissipated by the air flow. A wiring harness on the air inlet duct connects the recirculation door motor, blower and blower control module to the vehicle wiring.
When the blower is required, the ATCM energizes the coil of the blower relay. The energized blower relay supplies battery power to the blower motor, which is connected to ground through the blower control module. The speed of the blower is controlled by the blower control module, which regulates the blower motor voltage in response to a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal from the ATCM. To vary the blower motor voltage the ATCM varies the duty cycle of the PWM signal.
When the blower is in the automatic mode the ATCM determines the blower speed required from the comfort algorithms. When the blower is in the manual mode, the ATCM operates the blower at one of seven fixed speeds as selected on the control panel.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 07 Sep 2011
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 6
I have run the test a few times now and every time I get the econ light flashing. The recal doesn't seem do be rectifying the issue. Is there any way of pin pointing the fault shown by the flashing econ light?! Or does it need to go on a diagnostic check?! Not sure which part to look at next as being a possible suspect?!?!
20th Sep 2011 8:53 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I faultmate would help isolate the module at fault but the flashing light could just be a minor misalignment and your blower problem could be a separate issue.
You could try removing the trim under the lower glove box and try reseating the blower power connector just in case it has worked a little loose, but this would be a rather speculative check.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 07 Sep 2011
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 6
Ok so I have tries the sys test again, and still I get the flashing econ light but no more lights once the ignition has been selected off then back on. I have already checked blower elec connection, which is ok. Scratching my head now !!!
21st Sep 2011 8:01 am
irl32
Member Since: 27 Aug 2009
Location: Co Mayo
Posts: 66
can you tel me what fuse runs the windscreen blower,and location of the fuse,as i want to check the basics before i go deeper,
one thing though, with the cabin light on, when i turn thr fan controller from econ to run the cab lights dip ! as if the fan motor is drawing power, any ideas ?
The link below is to my gallery where the heater wiring diagram for my LR3 is posted. I think it is the same for the D3 as well. I think you are looking for 40 amp fusible link 12E shown on the diagram and located in the engine compartment fuse box, near the front blower relay, R16, I recall?. The odds are you just have a defective fan motor - not unusual. It could also be the PWM thing but the motor is usually the problem.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...wiring.pdf2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
5th Oct 2011 3:23 am
Discoed
Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 1020
Well I swapped over my relays and now my heater fan works
26th Oct 2011 4:55 pm
AIRBORNE MEDIC
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 603
Guys thanks for this nformation
My fan has been playing up for weeks and even had it in to Land Rover who said initially that there was nothing wrong and then they said that the heater matrix would have to be changed at a cost of £350 + labour on top The mechanic said best to live with it to save costs but as its now winter and will get colder there is no way you can live without it
Yesterday afternoon after two days of it not working at all i booked it back in to Land Rover but After reading this thread last night i changed the fuse link and the heater fan is working a treat and at a fraction of the cost at £2.50 for the replacement.
In future i'll not be so happy to go to Land Rover if they can confuse a heater unit with a broken fuse
Celebration may be a bit premature. Something made the fusible link blow so be prepared for more cold.
The fan motor is not too hard to change out nor all that expensive either. It may be an intermittent fan problem that is blowing the fusible link is what I am thinking.
If not the fan, then next would be the control module. This is the device that creates the variable fan speeds. The temperature control unit, (ATC), creates the instructions but the Control Module is what interprets the instructions and varies the power to the fan so that the fan blows at different speeds. I also think that fans are replaced more often than the Control Module - which is also hard to get at. That brings up an interesting question, what part goes more often, the fan or the control module? From reading the forums, my guess is the fan.
Money wise, I would say you could switch both out for less than the labour cost of the dealer doing it - would be kind of like the parts were free.
When I hear a dealer using words like matrix to describe possible required parts, I get very concerned.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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and then they said that the heater matrix would have to be changed at a cost of £350 + labour on top 
The mechanic said best to live with it to save costs but as its now winter and will get colder there is no way you can live without it 
