Below is a Calibration Test procedure that is probably of no value regarding your fan problem but costs nothing to try. The procedure is normally used when the air conditioning is acting up or the vents seem not to be operating correctly. It may be worth a try however as it initiates some sort of self fixing procedure. In my case, the ECON LED never did flash but I felt the operation of the vents improved.
Since your fan does at times operate, the problem may not be hardware which makes finding the fix even more difficult.
With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
18th Jul 2014 4:13 pm
barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
thank u i will try that and keep u upto date .
19th Jul 2014 12:48 pm
barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
the led light flasher well u can here something messing about under dash then it goes off. turn car off then on and there is no light .
but when i turn the blowers on it sounds like it could do with some oil on a part but that might be just me lol
The comment regarding oil needed I presume refers to the operation of one of the air doors - that it sticks. If so, that is another problem and the fix is lithium grease but not the problem you are trying to fix right now.
From your comments, I gather you have installed a new fan. If so, did you put 12VDC to the removed fan and did that fan seem to function OK; ie go to full speed?
Have you replaced what is called Control Module - Blower Motor - Front (D258), depicted on page 52 in the wiring pdf re one of my previous posts above Usually that is the problem if you cannot get the fan to run full speed when it otherwise does when connected directly to the battery.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
19th Jul 2014 8:51 pm
barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
yeah new Control Module. fan blower at front. fan spins fine connected to a 12v batt.
once u turn the dial on the Control Module to the first light the fan spins then turns off within a sec . ive tryed to upload a video onto youtube but ant happened yet .
The YouTube video is what I would first call disturbing and of course puzzling. I say disturbing as my first reaction was Land Rover put the fan on the wrong side. I then realized that it is a British humor kind of thing.
The real puzzler is the fan noise - that is odd. I hope someone else knows what the problem is as I certainly do not.
I did wonder if you could trace the conductors from the fan module back to the where they plug into the rear of the control bit with the knobs. I wondered if a wire was cut or almost cut and hence control signal was not properly getting to the fan module.
My view is that for some reason, the actual printed circuit boards for most part are fairly reliable so problems tend to be in the simple stuff like the connectors or conductors - that is the way it is with the air suspension anyway.
I have yet to do a YouTube video so you definitely now know more than me about that sort of thing.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
20th Jul 2014 2:24 am
barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
if the vent didnt move fast enough under the dash would that shut the fan down ?
I doubt that the operation, (or not), of the vent doors affects the fan motor speeds.
As such, I am at a real loss to figure out what is the next step. If you had access to junk yard parts, maybe going a getting a new used control part might be a solution but the idea of buying new bothers me. A new fan or control module is not wasted money as they are both wear items and eventually quit anyway but the control module, that is different.
If you had a Faultmate or similar, I suppose one could try stuffing new software into the heater AC module but that really is not the best idea if the problem is actually elsewhere. Then the system really would be messed up.
Below is the link to the where sometimes the vent actuator noise comes from and how to get at it.
In this case, one removes the upper glove box and then works thru that space.
One of the difficulties with the disco3 forums are that if no one knows the answer, there is almost no where else to go. In this case, I think the way the fan is currently operating is a very unique problem.
In summary, the fan is probably OK as it is new.
The control module is probably OK as you have installed a new one.
The relay providing power is OK as you have also installed a new one.
When you have the fan running directly and at full speed, where is the power coming from? In other words, I assume thru the fan relay circuit?
The control module provides ground, hence the source of your fan power for test purposes should still be from the fan circuit. If so, and the fan works full speed, then we can assume the relay and wiring from the relay is OK and that the problem is on the ground side.
It does occur to me that if the ground lug at C-2606-1 was corroded or there was a problem with the wiring in connector C-2997-1, then a simple lack of good grounding could be the problem.
I tend to find these hard to fix unusual problems have simple but near impossible to find solutions.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
20th Jul 2014 4:51 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2683
Barce1987, did you ever fix this problem?
The fan in my D3 was fine last night, but is now doing exactly the same as yours was in your clip. As you turn the fan from off to the first light it spins up and almost instantly stops.
At no other point can I get it to spin.
I've tried swapping the relay for the starter motor one and it's made no difference.
I was thinking it could be the control module, but it looks like you installed a new one.
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
29th Jan 2015 8:39 pm
wizz80
Member Since: 06 Feb 2010
Location: devon
Posts: 105
Try the resistor next to the blower motor grey thing with four wires going to it just changed one myself and cured same problem
4th Mar 2015 5:30 pm
Bigcat8810
Member Since: 13 Sep 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 75
Recently had similar issue, blower would sometimes work, other times could take an hour before springing into life, finally just this last week or so (when it got cold) it stopped working completely. Thanks to this very thread, just picked up a new relay for £5 and now seems to be working fine, which is a relief as a cheap fix to a problem I could not live with this time of year!----------------------------------------
D3 TDV6 HSE Silver/Black
D3 TDV6 HSE Black/Tan (Gone)
RRS TDV8 Black/Black (Gone)
RRS TDV8 Stornaway (Gone)
RR Vogue TDV8 (Gone)
RRS 4.4V8 (Gone)
Defender 110 300tdi (Stolen, much missed)
RR Vogue V8 P38 (Gone)
LR 90 TD (Gone)
Below is a link to a thread with jpg's that I did up regarding replacement of my HVAC fan and the associated module. The fix was on a LHD LR3 and was done without taking much of the 3 apart.
It probably took me two hours to do it as it was a first time; second time around would be less than a half hour total.
http://landroverforums.com/forum/lr3-28/in...post5688692005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
2nd Dec 2016 4:19 pm
MakeMineRare
Member Since: 03 May 2017
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1
Discovery 3 Front Heater Blower Fault Solution
I am making this post to help all those like me who have had problems with their Disco 3. Many people seem to have had exactly the same fault as I have just come across. My Disco 3 has only done 92,000km so it is a baby really.
Recently I had the exact same fault that has been shown on the video where on manual operation the Blower will momentarily turn on but stop immediately. There seems to be power to the Blower but it will not operate. I tested the relay and it was fine. The fault was extremely puzzling as when I tested the power supply across the connector to the blower there was good power supply of over 10 Volts. I then thought the motor was faulty and purchased a new one. With the new Blower Motor fitted the problem remained.
After more reading on this site I then tested the earth side of the Blower Fan. This was the best test that I decided to do after reading all the information on this topic. I connected an earth wire to the earth of the blower motor while it was connected to the power supply. This was simply a Electrical Tester probe into the earth connection and then connected that wire to nearby bolt into the steel chassis to provide a good earth. Much to my surprise when i then turned the fan on manual the original Blower went flat out. It would only operate flat out or off as the earth connection had very little resistance. I now knew that the Relay and the Blower were both fine and it was the earth side of the Blower that was faulty. Without the earth wire inplace the Blower did the same when turning the manual knob from off to one light on. It turn briefly and stopped.
I then took the chance and purchased a Front Heater Blower Resister. This Resister is on the earth side of the Front Blower and was the mostly likely part that had failed. Once the new part was fitted, much to my delight the Blower Fan worked perfectly. Now I have a spare new Blower Fan and the system is working perfectly. I hope this finally provides the solution to many Disco 3 and 4 owners who have faulty Front Blowers. Replacing the Front Blower Resistor is only a 10 minute job if you follow all the great instructions online for replacing Front Blower Motors.
Thanks again for all the help of this great forum.
I wondered if you took the old resistor apart and looked to see if it showed any signs of damage - black etc?
I ask as when I replaced my resistor, I took it apart and all looked brand new even though it was original - about ten years old.
When I did my fix, I replaced both the fan and the resistor and then all worked; as such I really never knew which was the problem. The fan however had lots of black dust within.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
3rd May 2017 2:01 pm
Yetijoe
Member Since: 11 Apr 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 7
Top dashboard vent operation fault
Hi
My 55 2,7 HSE defrost blower on the top front of dashboard is not blowing air
The blower motor switches and it runs hard but no air out of the vent.
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