Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Removal of Front Diff propshaft flange
Does anyone know the best way to remove the "flange" (No 28.) on the front diff. the part that bolts to the drive shaft.
Ive undone the "pinion nut" (No 30) - the manual says there should also be a "pinion nut retainer" (No29), but i can see it unless its solidly attached to the "gear and pinion assembly" (No 18.). Ive got my repalcement diff and just trying to replace the 3 oil seals (No3x2 and No25) . the half shaft seals are easy but the oil seal to the driveshaft flange is a little harder.
any help appreciated
Click image to enlarge
Duncan
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Last edited by DiscoDunc on 17th Sep 2011 4:56 pm. Edited 1 time in total
17th Sep 2011 4:23 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
I might be mistaken because I can't see the parts list, but number 23 seems to be a bearing race, number 25 seems to be the seal.
What is part number 22 described as? If it is a 'collapsible' spacer then the reassembly might be tricky. It was on the Salisbury diff on my 2a, I had to mark exactly, and count the turns to get the pinion nut off (effin tight). Then reassemble to the exact number of turns and line the mark up. Failure to do so would result in the incorrect preload on the bearing.
It might be all different on the D3 though. Good luck
Last edited by Gareth on 17th Sep 2011 4:59 pm. Edited 1 time in total
17th Sep 2011 4:54 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
yes, sorry, finger trouble
Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
17th Sep 2011 4:56 pm
Kingmav66
Member Since: 20 Jul 2010
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1349
Dunc, give Bodsy a shout, he's changed his front diff so will probably know
Cheers, Garry
17th Sep 2011 4:58 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
i think he bought a recon one though that came with all new seals..
I give him a shout anyway.. cheers Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
17th Sep 2011 5:01 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
Dunc, I edited my post above as you replied. Did you read the bit about the spacer? It could be critical.
17th Sep 2011 5:03 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Thanks Gareth
22 is a "Collapsible Spacer"
do you think the "collapsable spacer will "collapse" when the flange is removed..
Ive got the seals from TLO so they are servicable parts. The retaining nut was tight !! (No 30) , but its off now so ill just have to tighten it up as best i can remember. I got it off with a 140Nm air gun, so will put i back on with that.Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
17th Sep 2011 5:11 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
The idea of a collapsible spacer is to get the bearing pre-load exactly right on initial assembly. When 1st tightened to a preset torque, the spacer would collapse a certain amount so that the taper roller bearings were set with just the right amount of pre-load to eliminate any play, but not be so tight as to overheat.
However, if you have to dismantle the pinion assembly, it is recommended that you use a new collapsible spacer, and re-tighten the pinion nut to the original torque setting. Of course, without completely dismantling the whole diff, you cant get at it because it is behind the outer bearing race, which is pressed in. It's not impossible, but needs a bearing puller to do it, and its something I never succeeded with when I replaced my Salisbury pinion seal.
Like i say, the D3 procedure may be different, but the diagram looks remarkably similar to the Salisbury setup used on old Series LR's
17th Sep 2011 5:22 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Mmm, i can see where the nut was tightened to because the thread is discoloured. I'll just need to get the flange off to change the seal... As its a servicable part it shouldnt be too difficult, but I cant find any instructions or torque settings for removal and re-assemblyDuncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
17th Sep 2011 5:29 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Duncan, all the info I found on that seal, was that it should only be changed at dfactory because of the probability to get it wrong....
The others are all changed no probs, but that one has to be pressed as a complete unit without the diff moving at all.......
It was one of the reasons I made the choice to go for a recon diff.......
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I think a gearbox /diff specialist may be able to pull the old assembly off & put it back together right...Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
17th Sep 2011 5:56 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
maybe i'll just leave it then - it doesnt look as if the diff has any leaks - although the one i'mm about to remove does..
But, you can buy the seal, so it must be servicable outside of factory Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
17th Sep 2011 7:01 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Diff now fitted
Thanks to disco-steve for his help
On the old diff, I need to replace the two bearings on the half shaft sides and also still need to get this flange off so I can check the bearings and replace the seal. That should then be a good reconditioned diff as everything else seem well OK.
Any idea how the get the bearings and flange off.Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
1st Oct 2011 5:05 pm
Q86ARR
Member Since: 23 Feb 2010
Location: Jersey
Posts: 378
LR special tool 205-824 will get the flange off.
2nd Oct 2011 9:41 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
is there any way of getting the flange off without buying a tool that probably costs more than the diff Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
2nd Oct 2011 9:44 pm
Norwegian wood
Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Sandefjord
Posts: 66
Part number collapsible spacer
Anyone know the part number for the collapsible spacer in the front diff?De-tangoed, G4 Winch, G4 Raised airintake, G4 Sumpguard, V8 brakes, 3 flash, clock on dash. Done belts, brakes, parkbrake actuator, transfer ecu, wheelbearings, air dampers, suspension arms, alternator, cruisecontrol,steelpan autobox++
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so ill just have to tighten it up as best i can remember. I got it off with a 140Nm air gun, so will put i back on with that.
