I think my compressor has been on the way out for some time now, it makes lots of noise and suspension raising is beginning to slow down with accompanying "suspension is raising slowly error" occasionally. Is there anything I can do now, to prevent it from failing completely?
8th Aug 2011 6:16 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Not sure these will help but you could try:
- Cleaning all the mud trapped around the compressor (if you are the off-roading type) to keep it cool
- Removing the desiccant and microwaving it to the original colour to reduce the strain on the compressor
- Check for and repair any small leaks to reduce the work of the compressor
- Check with dealer that all the reliability software patches have been embodiedLand Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 14 Feb 2010
Location: Mtunzini
Posts: 122
Robbie wrote:
- Removing the desiccant and microwaving it to the original colour to reduce the strain on the compressor
Are there perhaps any more exact detail how to do this ?
9th Aug 2011 1:42 pm
ambrose
Member Since: 26 Feb 2011
Location: Dorset
Posts: 58
Just had mine replaced it was still working but slowly, Indy specialist called it a "Lazy Pump" producing a lower operating pressure (low revs) thus running on longer. A totally differant ride now rise's quickly and also seems a harder/ better ride.
Hope you can solve yours without the expense
Best of Luck
Phil
9th Aug 2011 1:56 pm
DcNexus
Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Luebeck
Posts: 207
Member Since: 19 Feb 2008
Location: Boksburg
Posts: 800
DcNexus, can't open the link
-
Quote:
Removing the desiccant and microwaving it to the original colour to reduce the strain on the compressor
I did mine 2 weeks ago, was wet to the touch, but did not turn blue, it stayed white.
So there must be different types of desiccant used. What I did find was a fine
powder from the desiccant which could be the balls being crushed whilst wet
under the spring pressure, and fine enough to clog the two cloth filters inside.
Removed the powder remains, cleaned the cloth filters, now alls fine.D3 bullbar-spots-roof rack with spots-ladder-long range tank-swing out spare wheel carrier- upgraded tow bar-dash console-internal water tank-duel awnings-drawer system & T T.
10th Aug 2011 7:35 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Interesting - did you happen to take any pictures of the desiccant and powder?Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Just did mine. Made a huge difference.
The hardest bit is removing the compressor. You need an extension of the right length to get the top bolt out.
To remove the dryer you just press in the red collar and pull out the airline, undo the screw and twist and pull.
Take the top off the dryer and shake the contents int a bowl. You will find the top plate and filter pad will come out as well, remove this. Sieve this to remove the fine grains and powder. Microwave the beads until bits no longer stick to a spoon. Sieve again and return to the dryer. Reassemble.
I think the beads get worn producing the powder which clogs the pads as Discoeast said.
It is worth doing regularly as the air is taken in through the dryer and if is clogged the compressor will have to work much harder. The air is also exhausted through the dryer and as in my case the vehicle would go into etended mode when going into access as the system was unable to exhaust enough air.“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
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10th Aug 2011 10:50 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
The dryer is a serviceable item. It can be replaced if the above sounds like its not for you My D3 Build Thread
What please is the part number & cost of a replacement dryer ?
How frequently might one prudently replace this?
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11th Aug 2011 5:53 am
Discoeast
Member Since: 19 Feb 2008
Location: Boksburg
Posts: 800
Robbie, sorry no pics.
I had an easer time removing mine as the bracket was broken accross
the bottom bolt holes and only found out when the last bottom bolt
was loosened. This gave me more space to get at the top bolt, after
I had repaired the bracket I cut slots into the rear facing bolt holes
of the bracket, so that I could put these bolts in first, slide the
compressor bracket in, fit the last bolt and tighten up. As I knew
it would come out again at some stage and make it easer.
As for the spanners, I modifyed 2 x 10mm ring set spanners which
helped a lot, first lenghtened one to a lenght of 230mm ( total lenght )
For the rear top bolt, bent it at 90 deg +/- 40mm from the ring side,
for the rear bottom bolt, as there is a stiffener moulded here in the
bracket and need to get over the top of it to get at the bolt head.
Now you could use a " C " spanner ( bent in a C shape with a ring on
each end ) in place of my bent one, but I did not have one at the
time.D3 bullbar-spots-roof rack with spots-ladder-long range tank-swing out spare wheel carrier- upgraded tow bar-dash console-internal water tank-duel awnings-drawer system & T T.
11th Aug 2011 6:22 am
DcNexus
Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Luebeck
Posts: 207
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