Thanks for this useful post.
I wish I had read before when I had my diffs rebuilt (oct-dec 2010). Me bearings were in far worse shape than yours, the rollers being completely destroyed, and the internal seal's springs rusty and broken.
The bearings which suffer more are the pinion ones, but the crownwheel ones are usually in better shape.
I did not know anything about the ATF contaminating with coolant. So far my coolant level is spot-on
Best regards
RobertRegards, Robert
Only a closed filling station can prevent me from reaching my destination
1992 Santana 88"SWB petrol
1995 RRClassic 300Tdi
1999 D2 V8 manual coiler
2004 D2 Td5... SOLD!
2006 D3 V8 SE
19th Jul 2011 11:47 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
My problem sounds just like this. Been told by a garage it is the front diff or transfer case.
This is after I done all oils and two genuine front wheel bearings.
Quite a bit of swarf and black tar (paint???) In front diff. Nothing out of transfer box.
Quite a bit of a guess going with just a diff when it could be either!!
17th Jul 2014 8:25 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
Front diff sump plug couple of weeks ago
17th Jul 2014 8:33 pm
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
Ya, definitely bearings disintegration. Plenty of pictures in my gallery if you want to get a better idea.
I generally suggest to change the diff oils every 30k (miles) or so. If you submerge it, ie: heavy fording then it may be worth checking / changing at the next service. This will extend the life as much as possible. It doesn't matter if you get a new or rebuilt one from LR it will have the coating, and that enhances the issue, but I consider rust due to moisture to be the bigger evil.
These are heavy trucks, and if used for their intended purpose it should not be unusual to expect to have to change diffs or repair them periodically. Staying on the maintenance is the best bet for extending the life. If I can help, drop me a PM.
17th Jul 2014 11:25 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
I agree. I got the D3 a couple of months ago, it is at 127000 with full service history, so there is only Landrover to blame with their sealed for life diffs! !!
When a diff oil change only takes minutes they really should have put changing it on a more regular basis.
So, where can I get a recon diff from?
18th Jul 2014 6:53 am
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
I dropped you a PM with some suggestions.
20th Jul 2014 4:58 pm
clubcars
Member Since: 03 Jul 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 14
diff whine
I'm getting the whirring / whining sound when taking the foot of the gas and coasting. Its a 70K 05 disco 3 and seems to be a common issue. There appears to be two sellers on a well known auction site selling diff overhaul kits which is basically bearings and seals.
Anybody have any experiences with these kits - good or bad?
25th Jul 2014 6:11 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
I have heard the kits are good but special shims etc are required. I was thinking of doing it myself but I am booked in to a Landy garage next Wednesday to have my own one done by them, and comes with a 12 month warranty so I am happy. And I am pleased with the cost as well
25th Jul 2014 6:38 pm
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
I would avoid them, they are Chinese made and are essentially crap. We did in fact buy and test them. We manufacture the components necessary to do the job. It is sold as a complete kit though. Just need someone in the UK to make the investment to bring them there.
Replacement shims are not needed 99% of the time, unless you are using parts which are out of specifications. I only speak from the experience of doing thousands of them.
New crush sleeve is necessary to do the job properly, they do not offer that either. I would ask the workshop how they plan to do the crush sleeve, shim it and reuse the old one?
New gears are required to ensure the whine is gone. They need to be manufactured, that is machined and cut to a higher standard than OE, then properly treated.
Otherwise, you'll end up with a quieter whining diff.
I would be curious, is the labor also warranted for 12 months, if so, then it may be worth the risk. It will be interesting to see how it turns out down the road.
25th Jul 2014 8:22 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
Unless I pay out over £1000 I have not really got much choice unfortunately!
25th Jul 2014 9:16 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
Well, this evening I picked up my D3 after having it stripped and rebuilt with new bearings.
And I am really pleased, there is now no noise and rumbling and just feels like a different car!
I thoroughly recommend Iawa 4x4 in Wellingborough, and it was much less than a new one.
Anyone with diff problems should give them a call, they really seem to know their stuff!!
30th Jul 2014 8:24 pm
samnt650
Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: C-NJ
Posts: 28
My differential (front) replaced at 40k miles. Afterward, I change the fluid every 20k. Now my truck is at 100k miles and the diff is failing (turn left no noise, straight and right with noise. No, its not the wheel bearing, they are new...) Fluid change not making much of differences!!!
20th Oct 2015 2:31 pm
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
Sam, this is like the 4rth forum you posted that on, is there a question? You need a diff, it happens sometimes.
21st Oct 2015 3:41 am
samnt650
Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: C-NJ
Posts: 28
TLT.. yup i got my answer. I'll PM you because I've more questions ...
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