Member Since: 29 Sep 2010
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6
Neewbie here & Looking to buy....
Hi all,
New to this forum and looking to buy a Disco3, any advice on what to look for? I have been looking at a few around the 2005/2006 age...seems to be alot of high milers around....quite like the HSE's as they seem to have all the kit, but what are the main difference between the S, SE and HSE with reference to running gear/air suspension etc..?
TIA
Rich
29th Sep 2010 9:30 pm
Dave
Member Since: 08 Mar 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2462
They are all the same vehicle underneath mate, with the exception of perhaps some coming fitted with a locking rear diff. Its actual extra off road ability with this has been discussed / debated on here often.
Higher trim levels have a lot more electrickery in the cabin itself but will still be the same ability as a base 7 seater.
All 7 seaters are air sprung
Base 5 seater do not have air suspension and the terrain response but are still HDC, Traction controlled, ABS etc etc.
Some 5 seaters from rest of world may have air suspension
Like most/all Land Rover ranges, they are pretty much the in mechanical respects across the trim levels.Captain Nick Medhurst would ask:
"What is the first rule when overlanding?"
I would Reply:
"Duratrac"
Last edited by Dave on 29th Sep 2010 10:02 pm. Edited 1 time in total
29th Sep 2010 9:58 pm
Dave
Member Since: 08 Mar 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2462
Oh and welcome, put a post up in the welcome area. Its good ere Captain Nick Medhurst would ask:
"What is the first rule when overlanding?"
I went for an XS as it had fewer things to break or go wrong ...
Still has all the important toys incl Nav, decent sound system, leather, parking sensors, cruise, etc but you lose elec / memory seats, high end ICE, high-end Nav, TV tuner etc. The HSE has pretty much everything. The Commercial doesn't have rear windows. Base cars only have 5 seats and no air suspension, all others have 7. In between you get GS, S, XS / SE.
I bought from a ,main agent as I wanted the security of the warranty but it's a costly option.____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey
Last edited by A1GSS on 30th Sep 2010 8:47 am. Edited 1 time in total
29th Sep 2010 10:03 pm
s7iffler
Member Since: 29 Sep 2010
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6
thankyou. Just been reading about the sunroof issues...thats one to look out for! How reliable is the air suspension, and what kind of costs are involved if it goes wrong? What MPG to these push, i was reading earlier 23mpg average, which i was expecting 26-28 as an average??
Many thanks,
Rich
29th Sep 2010 10:18 pm
The Transformer
Member Since: 22 Jan 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 1791
Have a look in the wiki for difference in models
29th Sep 2010 10:22 pm
Dave
Member Since: 08 Mar 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2462
Auto MPG is down on the manual of course.
London / Middx I was getting 21 -22 on Auto
In the sticks I now get 25
Manual probably good for around 4 - 5 MPG more on like for like driving, the Auto is far nicer thogh in my opinion. Each to their own though of course Captain Nick Medhurst would ask:
"What is the first rule when overlanding?"
As long as you don't boot it everywhere, you can get the mpg into the high 20's - I average 27-28 in an Auto.
But town driving does take its toll, especially if you do a lot of hard acceleration/braking. Cruising on the motorway at about 70 and you should be getting into the 30's (just!)Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
If looking at high milers, be aware that at the 105000 mile service, the cambelt has to be changed - a big and expensive job
The D3 goes through a set of brake pads every 25-35K miles and discs won't go much beyond 60K so have a good look at those. Easy enough to do yourself (with the right equipment) - check out Bodsy's Brake Bible.
Make sure the EPB is working correctly and doesn't screech.
Take it for a drive and floor the throttle at some point. Make sure when you do that you don't leave a smokescreen behind you. A liitle bit of smoke is normal but clouds of the black stuff are a possible indication of turbo trouble - walk away!
Also, a little turbo lag is normal for a D3 but it shouldn't be excessive.
If an auto, make sure the gear change is smooth (should be barely noticeable) and that there is no juddering on acceleration.
Make sure there is no knocking/clunking sounds coming from the front and rear suspension.
Check out the aircon - best done on a warm day but should work even if it's a bit chilly. Turn both temperature dials down to fully cold ands turn up the fan a bit. You should get freezing cold air out of the vents. If the temperature of the air coming in is not well below the outside air temp, the aircon system is not working. Can be an expensive fix so walk away!
That's about all I can think of for now. I'm sure others will add to this list (or poo poo what I've written ) but I hope it helps.Now an ex-D3 owner after 7 happy years. Miss the car but not the big bills
30th Sep 2010 7:45 am
AWD man
Member Since: 03 Jul 2009
Location: In Drag
Posts: 831
Albourneboy wrote:
Take it for a drive and floor the throttle at some point. Make sure when you do that you don't leave a smokescreen behind you. A liitle bit of smoke is normal but clouds of the black stuff are a possible indication of turbo trouble - walk away!
Just ask the D4 guys about smoke screens....
Some of the "mapped" D3's kick out a wee bit more smoke at full throttle also... prob due to slight overfueling (this is grey not black smoke though, if it's black smoke Albourneboy is right to advise caution, could be a split i/c hose...but also it could be a failing turbo).
To check the air suspension, click it into access mode (lowest) then wait a few seconds for it to settle, then raise it to normal, then again up to "off road", the air compressor should be able to do this without "stalling" or flashing up a warning on the dash... The more times this can be performed, the better the condition of the compressor. But anything over 2 times I'd accept (especially on an older car).
To check the EGR's are working correctly (if it's not had a blanking kit fitted), pop the plastic cover off the engine, get someone to start the engine, then turn it off, you'll be able to hear the EGR's "cleaning" them selves, like a mechanical flip flap noise, if you get this noise on both sides of the block then they are not jammed and a good indication they are working ok still. On the tres drive check for a huge lull between 1k and 2k, EGR failure causes this also. (not to be confused with normal turbo lagg, try a few before buying, you'll know the "feel" you're expecting then.)57 RRS TDV8
BAS Map
D3: Gone but not forgotten
30th Sep 2010 7:53 am
s7iffler
Member Since: 29 Sep 2010
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6
Thanks guys great advice...are there any decent garages that could be recommended within say 50miles of Birmingham thanks again
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) but I hope it helps.
