With the Filo method what about if you drain the gearbox oil first, put the sump plug back in, and then use the Filo method? Would this change all the oil quicker with less waste?
Jim
21st Mar 2016 2:33 pm
Rogersdiscovery
Member Since: 26 Mar 2016
Location: reygades
Posts: 47
i followed instructions, constructed a pressure vessel, bought 8 litres of oil for ZF transmissions and scraped my courage together and got it done.
I think I drained about 5 1/2 litres. can't tell exactly for the first litre went everywhere.
sorry, but you really need to attach the hoses into the recipient cause it really comes out with bit of pressure.
when only air starts coming out I switched of the engine, connected the pressure vessel filled with the new oil to the radiator and started pumping.
I left the drainhose in the recipient with the old oil cause ideally I thought when the oil circuit would be full, it would start coming out ar that end, but it actually did not move at all.
so I just stopped filling when I had the impression that same amount was in as that came out.
it's not very accurate though but I saw I roughly put in 5,5 litres of new oil.
took it for a spin after reconnecting and it runs great.
I had no real problems before, a bit metally sound when at lower speeds n revs, but it seems to have gone now.
with no known maintenance history and 300.000 on the clock approximately it seemed time to do it.
the old oil was very black.
8th Apr 2016 1:56 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Hi All
Gearbox flushed & oil filter changed. Many thanks to Filo.
I did a hybrid change, I followed Filo's HowTo, but also changed the standard 1 unit gearbox oil filter/pan, to the 2 pieces pan and oil filter - it was very easy to do.
As per the picture, I have the kit setup already, if you are interested, you can borough-it.
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
15th Apr 2016 6:47 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
jim4244 wrote:
Guys
With the Filo method what about if you drain the gearbox oil first, put the sump plug back in, and then use the Filo method? Would this change all the oil quicker with less waste?
Jim
I am also unclear on this aspect.
I need to change the sump and oil.
1. So should I change the sump first and not refill the sump (this second aspect is what Jim was asking) then start the car and pump out the oil and refill using the Filo method - then doing the final top up through the filler plug at 35 - 50 degrees, or
2. After changing the sump - refill the sump etc then do the pump out refill by the Filo method, or
3. Do the Filo method of pump out and refill with the old sump in place and then change the sump to the new one?
Also - the amount of oil used in one flush seems to vary - I currently have 10 litres of Lifeguard 6, how much fluid do you exactly use for each flush.
Thanks
Garry
10th Sep 2016 3:55 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
Something like:
1) drain sump
2) pump out (run engine briefly)
3) redrain sump and change filter and sump
4) add ~5 litres. (or whatever came out)
5) drive car. Anywhere from 1 week to 1 year.
6) change fluid again if you wish.
For me, after step 5, (1 month) my fluid was still quite clean, so didn't consider a double fluid change necessary. Which is why I consider you may as well get a years worth of use out of the fluid.
lubricate the sump bolts from the top before undoing (especially the exhaust side). They can break off.
10th Sep 2016 4:07 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
jim4244 wrote:
Guys
With the Filo method what about if you drain the gearbox oil first, put the sump plug back in, and then use the Filo method? Would this change all the oil quicker with less waste?
Jim
The advantages of this are
1) If there is any dirty/nasty stuff in the bottom of the sump it's less likly to get pumped though the gearbox.
2) Yes, it should be a bit less waste
3) The pumped out oil at the front will fit in a 5 litre container
10th Sep 2016 4:29 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Hi Gary
I think this is like multiplication, the order you choose won't affect the end result.
From my perspective, it doesn't matter if the sump has dirt on it, the oil filter should stop it.
I followed filo's process all the way until I replaced the sump with the 2 part sump and oil filter, and it took couple of hours, BUT I took it very slow!!!
Again it does not matter how much oil you remove from the gearbox, I think I had 6 litres in total, but what is SUPER important is the refill process.
The amount you take out is a rough guide of how much you need to pump back in before you do the final check/fill, so the gearbox does not operate dry.
10 litres should be more than sufficient.
the key for a perfect refil is the gearbox temperature, not more than 35C and not below 30C.
Again I got the kit in Windsor should you need.
Good luckI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
10th Sep 2016 6:37 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
Thanks to everyone for the clarification.
Garry
12th Sep 2016 2:28 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
One last question.
There seems to be a differing of opinion on which hoses that connect the cooler to the gearbox are the fill and empty hoses.
I appreciate like Filo I can test first but it is easier to ask (this was asked in the thread and an answer given but then disputed - hence my question).
So when you switch on and the gearbox pumps the oil out does it come out the top or bottom hose on the cooler and likewise when go to fill does it go in the top or bottom hose (obviously the opposite to the one the oil comes out).
Sorry for the question but when you read the thread there are differing views.
Garry
16th Sep 2016 2:56 am
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
99% of uk cars are tdv6 diesel; in which case you disconnect the top hose at the radiator and the used oil will pump out of there and you fill fresh oil back into the rad where you disconnected the hose.
V8 petrol's are different and you need to refer to page 4 and 5 of this thread.
16th Sep 2016 5:45 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
Just Checking...
Sorry to re-light an old one but....
Those of you who pump the oil out through the radiator (Filo style) however many times, but don't touch the sump/filter pan. Are we relying on measuring what comes out and refilling the same amount, OR do we ALWAYS check the level at the sump.
Also, why do the kits for sale with a metal tray come with 7 Ltr of oil?
Promise I've read the whole thread a number of times
24th Nov 2016 9:52 pm
BigAl
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 144
Measure the amount out, put the same back in. Let it all cool down. Check the level afterwards at the correct temperature (between 30 and 40c) after cycling through the gears with the engine running.
24th Nov 2016 10:16 pm
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
So the check is necessary - Cheers.
Any Idea why the kits come with 7 litres?
24th Nov 2016 10:35 pm
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
BigAl wrote:
Measure the amount out, put the same back in. Let it all cool down. Check the level afterwards at the correct temperature (between 30 and 40c) after cycling through the gears with the engine running.
Just noticed this...
Should the pump out be done with the oil hot then?
Also...
Would it be sensible to put a little extra back in so as to let the fill hole drip clear rather than try and squirt more in?
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