Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
DIY FBH timer installation: advice needed please
I've read stapldm's great instructions probably about 20 times before deciding I could have a go at this but now that I've got most of the bits, I could use some advice please:
-soldering iron (looking to have only the remote option): I have a "variable temperature" iron, which does not specify wattage but stated temperature is 150 to 480 C. Is this safe to use as I don't want to fry the board? If yes, I would imagine close to the lower setting?
-solder: got some 60/40 solder, is this ok?
-cable: I am having trouble finding 6-core as per instructions locally, will CAT5 cable do the job without melting or is it too thin? If not, what alternatives should I consider?
-what is the best way to join the cabling of the fuse holder to the rest of the wiring? Am thinking of twisting and covering with heat-shrinking tube to seal...
Thanks
22nd Feb 2010 1:32 pm
Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Hi whilst I cannot comment on the soldering process as I do not have the remote starter, the other bits can.
1. Standard 4 core signal wire is fine, I got all my bits from Maplins
2. The in line fuse holder has a grub screw inside the fuse so no heat shrink required
3. you could use heat shrink if you have an earlier model FBH with the red/ blue wire that you need to connect to.
The instructions are great, I like you was a little nervous but it is quite straight forward. I have put some pics in my gallery.
Regards
Matt
22nd Feb 2010 1:42 pm
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Thanks Matt
Nervous is an understatement at this point
The problem is that I am abroad at the moment so a Maplins shopping basked is a little out of reach, which is why I had to source the parts locally, and inevitably they are different. For example, the fuse holder is a sealed unit with a looped wire that needs cutting to connect to the loom:
Click image to enlarge
Which is why I am asking for the alternatives' suitability
Thanks again
Last edited by discoBizz on 23rd Feb 2010 6:16 am. Edited 1 time in total
22nd Feb 2010 2:06 pm
disco_doozle
Member Since: 03 Nov 2007
Location: Bree
Posts: 447
ok, to be honest, i am to lazy to read the User Manual
Can someone explain me in a few words how the Oval Timer works?
The FBH kicks in under 4 degrees.....but mine doesn't, whats new..!!!
But how does the 1533 cope with this.
Do you have to launch the FBH manualy....?
What is it with the timer function? You set the time in the evening for when you leave in the morning...???
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Bree
I will try to keep it simple. The timer has 3 settings which you can set youself, you can only select one at a time. For example when you park the car up on a night, you click the button and it will activate the next time setting. eg 07.00 hrs, You have to do this each evening, for the morning setting to work. It has an instant heat button as well which basically means if you buy the extra kit - a remote, you can activate the heater whilst you are sat in the house. If you dont have the extra remote bits and just the timer you can use the instant heat button to fire it up whenever you need it (the car should do this anyway) My FBH never worked properly for 2 years until I fitted the oval timer, now it works fine, even on the automatic car settings. But nothing will make it work if your fuel low light is on or your 4 degrees plus in ambient temperature. I think a common fault is if you have a stand alone fbh and no timer, there can be problems with the way it communicates with the car, another of my theories is that for most of the year, when we have warmer weather it sits idle and gets bunged up with c p, this is where a shot of redex worked for me.
Hope that was brief enough
Good luck
22nd Feb 2010 11:31 pm
mattgreen
Member Since: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Worksop
Posts: 211
Matty - does the "instant heat" button force it work even when it wouldn't work automatically or do you still have to clear the fault codes etc etc?
23rd Feb 2010 10:10 am
Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Good question Matt and one I am not sure of, What I can say is that you can use a sequence of fuse removal and pressing the 'instant heat' button to reset it when it has locked out. this seems to work better than the common fuse out for 10 mins fix that has never worked for me !
23rd Feb 2010 6:19 pm
mattgreen
Member Since: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Worksop
Posts: 211
There is a link to a detailed document about the installation of the "oval timer" here:-
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: wiggleigh bottom
Posts: 1112
I wrecked my oval timer instant flame button after successfully soldering wires from a T91 remote kit. The T91 does not have a wbus output wire so wanted to use +12V OUT from T91 to control relay to connect instant flame connectors on timer as per stapldm doc Accident happened when trying to manipulte wires (suddenly wondering why I had a copper pad in the air )
Timer function was still working though. So I used the +12V OUT connection from the timer and joined it with the +12V OUT from a webasto T91 remote control. The combined OUT then fed into a wbus converter from www.danhag.de which can talk to the fbh in wbus, or its native protocol (default). This now allows timed and/or remote control of the fbh. Whats interesting is that the wbus converter in native protocol makes the FBH startup independent of the activity level of the car, or the external temperature. I can remotely start the fbh with the engine running and an external temp of +10C.
Have strapped the T91 aerial to the front (under the plastic grill). I have a range of about 100m. I will relocate to front A frame under outer black plastic covering once I have enough courage to just rip it off (should just snap back on ) See if I can get the range up to the claimed 1kmThere's one wheel on my wagon, but i'm still rollin' along, it's the cherokee, they're after me, but I'm singing a happy song
Using the "native protocol" do you still connect to pin 2 on the heater?Volvo XC60 - does all that the D4 should have done
Discovery HSE MY16 (good apart from the heating), now sold
Audi TT Roadster (wow)
MGB Roadster (owned since 1992)
Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE MY08
Saab 9-5 Aero 2002 (gone but not forgotten)
28th Feb 2010 3:28 pm
dick dastardly
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: wiggleigh bottom
Posts: 1112
yesThere's one wheel on my wagon, but i'm still rollin' along, it's the cherokee, they're after me, but I'm singing a happy song
6th Mar 2010 9:47 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
ellicars are you drunk? 2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
but now that I've got most of the bits, I could use some advice please:
, Performance BB6 17" + Duratracs 256/70R17, RLD Skid-plate, Traxide second battery setup, Lightguards, BAS EGR's blank kit, BAS Silicone hose, Black bonnet decal, 
p, this is where a shot of redex worked for me.
)
) See if I can get the range up to the claimed 1km
