Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1145
Counting the teeth will make sure you aren't a whole tooth out....but, have a look at the cam sprockets, they are held with 3 bolts which have slotted holes underneath which allow the cam timing to be set correctly. After putting the belt on, there will be a variance due to the new belt, tensioners etc.
So with the pins holding the cams (not the sprockets as they are loose, being able to turn a small amount), & the crank locked, the belt tension is correct & the cam bolts can be tightened, to give perfect cam timing. (Much smaller adjustment than a tooth on the belt)
If you just put the cam pins in, without loosening the sprockets, you have not set the timing. I have seen many timing belts changed just by counting the teeth & marking with paint, (a classic one is the 300TDI, with varying states of performance when the pump timing is out!). All run less than perfect, although some you may not notice the difference.
Regards
Steve
3rd Aug 2010 5:43 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Think you will find that I said you have to loosen the cam sprockets
The cams are locked, and not moving at all. The outer pulleys are free to move
The crank never moved when the belt was off, and have done many belts this way. I see what you are saying, that it would be better to remove the starter and lock it, that way there is no chance at all of it moving...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
Thanks for that, I'll see what I can find to fit
10th Aug 2010 7:22 pm
Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
I have now completed the task of changing both belts, with any special tools made up. I shall offer my take on the job, who without the help of Disco_mikey I may not have undertaken.
I started with the front belt, and made up the fan removal tool. Here is a picture of the tool set against the removed pulley (a picture of it in situ was not very clear) the 'curve' cut out has a diameter of 40mm, the two mounting holes are 8mm diameter with a distance of 50mm between the centres:
Removing the aux belts and pulleys are quite straight forward, but then came the time to try and catch some of the coolant as the pipework has to be split. Luckily you have plenty of room low down to place an old milk bottle and a funnel, so I was able to catch around 90% of the fluid, although looking at the picture you wouldn't think so :
Once this is done removing the cam belt cover is relatively easy if not time consuming. I then made some 'pins' out of some 0BA screws (these were just a bit wider than some M6 screws I had that measured 5.8mm). I had to file off some thread to get them to fit, then marked with some tape the distance they needed to be inserted:
Click image to enlarge
This method worked fine for me but you have to be carefull not the bend the screws whilst fitting the new timing belt.
Now onto the rear, removing the battery and wiring is a necassery evil in trying to gain a little more access to the rear of the block. I got the cover and old belt / tensioner off easy enough, but struggled for around 1.5 hours trying to get the new one on. I was trying to fit the belt without disconnecting the coolant pipe as suggested by 'gtrhaggart', but didn't realise how much that coolant pipe restricted access. With the coolant pipe out of the way the belt and tensioner was back on in 15 mins.
So all in not a bad job, have had plenty worse to contend with over the years.
This all interesting... but here in NZ the news belts were fitted at 165000km as per the service schedule, not 105000km....mmm ... thinks ... whats going on here??? Any ideas?Near enough 40 degrees South!!!
31st Oct 2010 6:27 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1145
105,000 miles, not kms, which isn't far away to 165,000 kms. 8)
Regards
Steve
31st Oct 2010 7:34 pm
Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
Hi Rich,
The UK is still in denial and so they are using miles.
105000miles=165000km (actually is 168945km, but who's counting).
HTH,
Peter
Oops. Sorry Steve, you posted under my radar. The Bearded Dragon
31st Oct 2010 7:38 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
Have finally completed my cam belt change, following the great write ups, and pictures in here, and also access to the TOPiX service proceedure, all went smoothly, and anyone contemplating doing this task shouldn't feel worried.
The cam timing is actually really easy to do, especially if you have the proper timing pin kit (which I did) I did take a deep breath when undoing the bolts on the end of the cam sprockets to loosen them, as it is at this point that the existing timing is effectively lost
But all went very well, and she started first time, even refilling and bleeding the cooling system was easy.
It is quite a back breaking job though, as you spend quite a lot of time bent over the front of the car, the cam belt tensioner was a bit tricky to set correctly, as removing and replacing the viscous fan, which is a bit awkward, apart from that it really is a straight forward job.
I'm certainly VERY pleased that I have saved around £700 on the quoted cost from my dealer. Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
7th Nov 2010 11:46 am
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
@steve,
well done mate!!!you should rightly said be well chuffed with yourself
how long did it take you, and at 110k how did your existing belts look?
rgds
darrell
7th Nov 2010 2:37 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
The whole job took me approx 5 hours, but there was quite a few pauses for coffee, and reading more on the 'how to' stuff, to be honest, I took my time as I didn't want to it up
I think if I did it again, I could probably do in around 4 hours.
The old belt was def showing signs of wear, and if you bend it back on it's self, there are small cracks inbetween the teeth
EDIT
Some pics
Old belt which is quite a bit thinner than a new one (they wear on both sides in use)
Click image to enlarge
When bent back, it is certainly showing signs of cracking, but it has clocked an estimated 13.2 MILLION revolutions
New belt in place, it dosen't show the difference in thickness that well, but it is, also notice I changed both idler pulleys as mentioned earlier in the post
Click image to enlarge
(the eagle eyed amoung you, will notice the EGR's are also blanked, a mod I can recommend )Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
7th Nov 2010 6:48 pm
Chicken Duck
Member Since: 11 Nov 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 1387
Nice one Steve Did you do it alone or have an helping hand?
9th Nov 2010 1:26 pm
harrythespider
Member Since: 21 Oct 2008
Location: cumbria
Posts: 290
105k belt change
Apparently Green Oval Garage in Leeds will change front and rear belts and pulleys plus auxillary belt using genuine parts for £329 plus the dreaded VAT. See for yourself on Google or fleabay.
I dont know if they lock the flywheel when they do it.
Sounds like good vaue for money. Pity I'm over 100 miles from them.
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