Member Since: 02 Apr 2006
Location: Madrid
Posts: 23
Done and dusted
hummf,
Done my 06 Disco over the weekend plus some time the previous!..... must be my old age but getting this done in 5hours was beyond me.
Nothing specific to add except thanks to Disco_Mikey and all the feedback, most helpfull.
A few comments:
The rear belt was a real pain and as mentioned you want to get all the pipes cabling out of the way...even so you end up with some nice scratches and bumps on your hands and forearms... shoes SWMBO that you were actually doing something. Getting the idler pully in place and its bolt was surreal...With a bit of american tape I taped a socket to the bolt to get a bit more leverage for my fingers....and to stop it dropping down the back of the engine.
I made up my own camshaft aligning tools, 5.9 diameter for the first 15 mm then 6.0 diameter for the rest
Most usefull tool... the closed foam mat for lying on top of the engine and on the floor...great knee saver
cheers JohnArtic Frost, HSE, TDV6
74 TR6...
1938 Alvis 12/70, rolling chassis loads of bits..body nearly done!
Audi 4 quatro
16th Nov 2015 8:22 am
Geoff at Drym
Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
When removing the fan don't forget that it's a LEFT HAND THREAD. And you need a big spanner or equally big adjustable. You may also need to make up a tool to fit on to the pulley bolts to hold everything whilst you undo the main fan shaft. 2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
16th Nov 2015 10:41 am
Irwin
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Internet
Posts: 270
Pump install
Doing the belts and pump and was looking on topix. It says to put sealant on the engine before fitting the pump. What did ye use for this?
"Apply sealant WSE-M4G323-A5 in an 3mm bead to the two areas shown, also apply a smear of sealant to the gasket face as illustrated."
You dont need any sealant, I always just use grease so that nothing gets picked up and it slides in position without trapping the seal.
Just grease all the seals, but do not put anything on the crankshaft oil seal, fit this dry, but be very careful when fitting it, as the seal lip can easily be turned inside out when fitting it.
Flack
31st Dec 2015 9:34 am
Geoff at Drym
Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
I agree with you Flack. If you put sealant on the bottom gasket it will only spread when you slide the pump into place. Bit messy and will not achieve a proper seal. Smooth some grease over the gasket and slide the pump on slowly and smoothly.
Also, I pulled the pump up tight with the horizontal bolts and then slackened them off a fraction so that the long vertical bolts could be pulled up tight on the bottom (greased) gasket, then retightened the main bolts again. So far 2000 miles and no leaks.
That's the way I did it................ for what it's worth!
And definitely don't put anything on the crankshaft seal. As Flack says, fit it dry and carefully and don't turn the engine over for at least four (4) hours after fitting said seal. 2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
[quote]and don't turn the engine over for at least four (4) hours after fitting said seal. Thumbs Up[quote]
Not sure where this comes from, but I have done a couple of hundred oil pump casings now, and as soon as I am ready to start the car up after fitting them I have done, not waited for four hours, never had any problems with them...
Flack
31st Dec 2015 12:08 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
That is in the official repair instructions, that it must be left for 4 hours
Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
You're right Mike, I followed the official instructions so hence my comment. However you and Flack and the others are all experienced Disco fixers and therefore I'm sure these instructions are for LR to be super safe. I suspect that the time you guys take from fitting the pump to when you turn the engine over is obviously more than adequate. 2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
31st Dec 2015 3:23 pm
Irwin
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Internet
Posts: 270
Grease it is then. The old tensioner has the letter E in its window. Is it supposed to be like that or is the belt well worn? Also i think its the aircon pump on the left of the engine is wet and caked in dirt. Would this just be oil from changing the filter.
1st Jan 2016 6:37 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
The belt has lost a fair amount of tension, as the pointer should be inside that cut out on the tensioner. But that is to be expected...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Internet
Posts: 270
Are the water pump bolts tightened to 10nm? Cant find the info anywhere.
Edit: found it, they are 10nm.
3rd Jan 2016 8:58 am
Irwin
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Internet
Posts: 270
All back together and no bang or oil leaks so far. I fitted the new oil pump, water pump and alternator. The aux belt was in poor enough condition with many cracks and the upper/lower tensioners were making a grinding noise so will be replaced as well in the next few days. I also took off the butterfly box and cleaned it out as it was caked in sut. Big thanks to DM and all the replies and help. I feel alot better to finally have that oil pump out
6th Jan 2016 10:04 am
Jarvis
Member Since: 16 Dec 2009
Location: West Berkshire
Posts: 280
So, got the bits from Steve (AF) and "extra" tools as pointed out by Nasher, ready to follow DM's excellent write-up.
Now the question is: Am I brave enough to use the paint approach or "whip" the starter off If I go the starter route, am I looking for an alignment hole in the flywheel for the special doberry that came with the cam pins to fit into?
Hoping for nice weather (not putting much faith in the £17.99 gazebo from Argos keeping me dry!) this weekend.
7th Jan 2016 2:33 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
If you do lock the flywheel, remove the belt cover and get the cam pins located first, then take them out.
The flywheel timing hole will not be far away at that point My D3 Build Thread
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If I go the starter route, am I looking for an alignment hole in the flywheel for the special doberry that came with the cam pins to fit into?
