Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
Have you checked the flywheel locking tool fits the opening above the starter?
You shouldn't require a puller for the crank pulley as it's only held in place by the crankshaft bolt.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
Every step has been a hassle so far, locking tool needed grinding down to fit(but reading other posts that's not uncommon). Pulley definately isn't budging without a puller on it either
1st Feb 2015 11:32 pm
Rich84
Member Since: 25 Jun 2013
Location: South Australia
Posts: 238
That's surprising - my pulley just slid off once I had the bolt out. There's no woodruffe key or anything holding it there - perhaps yours has rusted in place? Have you tried giving it a few sharp taps with a hammer (nothing too extreme obviously)?
I had to grind down my tool as well - I suspect it had been machined to the exact diameter of the hole, rather than to a dimension that would actually fit in the hole. I ground about 0.5mm of the entire radius and it was still a snug fit.2008 RRS TDV6 - Chawton White/Black/Lined Oak - 20's, h/k, sunroof - 350K KM.
2010 Audi A6 3.0T S-Line - Phamtom Black/exclusive 2-tone valcona 184K
2000 Audi A4 avant 1.8t Q Sport - Phantom Black/black 385K KM
1990 Nissan Pintara TRX - red - lots of mods - 439K KM
1st Feb 2015 11:46 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
The pulley is a face fit almost, you have undone the large bolt in the centre and not just the 6 around the outside Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
IID Pro MV License - D3/4 RRS - Enabling, Updates,Transmission flushing.
Mobile or workshop,PM for details.
2nd Feb 2015 12:35 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
The pins are made to fit the hole and then there is normally some sort of plating added that makes the pin oversize.
Th can feel the pain - for every good story there is a hard yakka story. Typical Landrover crappy design work - why design it so the starter needs to come out to get the pin in - same a a L series Freelander - the crank pin was impossible to get in without dismantling halfthe stuff around it.
I would be happy to do the belt myself but with having to take the starter out to also do the oil pump I think it is simpler to just pay someone - more expensive yes - but a lot less grief and stress.
The pulley is a face fit almost, you have undone the large bolt in the centre and not just the 6 around the outside
Yep, main bolt is out - that was about the only thing that's gone right couple of 500mm pry bars won't budge the pulley. And today hasn't gone to plan either, I had to shoot down to a land rover dealer for an alternator belt as mine was looking very average - that's an hours drive each way, not dramas, but e. issus decided she wanted to go for a drive so that means we end up having lunch while out(and two kids in tow ), don't get home until 2pm and then it's not worth getting into the work as I need to go pick the other two kids up from school. Then there's sport training this afternoon so I just have no time to get into it until 7pm so I'll end up working until midnight getting this done. There I've had my I'm good now
2nd Feb 2015 7:26 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Puller got it off. I think mine must be an exceptionally tight fit, even when all cleaned out when putting it back on it was firm. Once that pulley was of things started to go ok. Even managed to get the starter back in place in around 15mins On
Y had one hiccup once I finished when I attempted to start it. Made a horrible noise and then died. I forgot to bleed the air from the fuel system as I'd replaced the fuel filter while I was at it
3rd Feb 2015 1:40 pm
dutchviking
Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 61
Many thanks to Disco Mikey for this excellent article. Some tips on the starter motor removal: Disconnect battery and remove alternator. Jack up the car and remove the front right wheel. Unbolt fuel cooler and tuck it away above its bracket. Now remove V+ supply cable from starter motor whilst the starter motor is still mounted. Get this cable out of the way. Now you can remove both bolts holding the starter motor and simply slide it out. Quite easy to remove actually. Remove the 8mm nut and release the actuator cable. Then remove the starter motor down the opening in the chassis. Mine's a 2007 TDV6 with automatic transmission.
22nd Jun 2015 9:55 am
Jonobrigg
Member Since: 05 Feb 2011
Location: Dublin
Posts: 2
Can you get the parts through the forum?
New to this but encouraged by the advice, inspired by Disco Mikey - So now need the parts. Is there a way of getting discounted LR parts through the Forum?
Thanks
JB
27th Jul 2015 4:12 pm
aman
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
After changing the timing belt, is there a way to check the actual timing with a computer?
If so, what values are acceptable and unacceptable
19th Sep 2015 9:23 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
Timing cannot be checked by computer. It is purely mechanical My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
Thanks Mike for your reply!
All those sensors and not one for timing?!
I don't know too much, but I thought that there might be sensors on the cams or crank that could double check if the timing was ok after a timing belt change
How would you adjust the timing - say if you wanted to modify the way your engine runs for any reason - e.g. for motorsports, or running on slightly different fuels etc
19th Sep 2015 9:37 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
As long as the cam and crank sensors are sync'd during start up, the engine doesn't care about heir relative positions My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 30 Apr 2013
Location: York
Posts: 512
Started doing the front belts today, but when it came to fitting the two smaller timing pins, only the left hand side pin would fit in. It fits in very snugly, but the right hand pin wont locate... have closed the bonnet and left it till tomorrow for the second try Any advice greatly appreciated...what is this life, if full of care?
we have no time to stand and stare.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum