Member Since: 09 Oct 2013
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 5
Hi. THz for the replay. No the cam have not moved but the pulley on the cam that is held by 3 bolts have moved in the slot. What can happened if they are not where they previously where?2007 Discovery TDV6 S
2013 VW Caddy 1.6
12th Dec 2014 1:05 pm
kevman01
Member Since: 09 Oct 2013
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 5
The motor turns over with no problem with socket on the crank.2007 Discovery TDV6 S
2013 VW Caddy 1.6
They are designed to do that, why the pulleys both have slotted holes is for making sure that when you replace the belt you can move all the slack around from the pulleys to the tensioner, so you do not get a situation where your belt is stuck between teeth.
Your supposed to slacken each pulley's bolts off and rotate the pulleys fully clockwise when your putting the belt on and work from the crankshaft anti-clockwise back round to the tensioner for the reason above.
If you have tightened the bolts up then it should be fine.
Flack
12th Dec 2014 1:16 pm
kevman01
Member Since: 09 Oct 2013
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 5
THz for the replay. Will net know what is the out came.2007 Discovery TDV6 S
2013 VW Caddy 1.6
12th Dec 2014 1:19 pm
kevman01
Member Since: 09 Oct 2013
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 5
Hi. Just want to let u guys know that the disco 3 start up with no bang. Idle smooth. So now need to take for test run. Thz for allike the help.
Regards2007 Discovery TDV6 S
2013 VW Caddy 1.6
12th Dec 2014 8:41 pm
dreynolds10
Member Since: 11 Jun 2013
Location: Berks
Posts: 166
Robbie wrote:
dreynolds10 wrote:
D3 technical photo of the year?
Not sure how you got such a good picture but well done.
Thanks Robbie. It was taken using an iPhone slotted down the back of the pump after I had removed the belt cover (and all the wiring looms + cross over pipe) to gain access. A bit like taking a photo through a letter box
Now my next problem is replacing it...I think I have an answer though...(you know when you get that feeling that you wish you never started a job )...see my separate post http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic118158.htmlDisco3 project
13th Dec 2014 2:29 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Been reading this thread as I need to do the belts as it has been 7 1/2 years since the car was sold. I have done a Freelander diesel belts a couple of times and the basic principle is the same as the 2.7. I was happy to just mark the crankshaft but as my engine is an 07MY I am going to do the oil pump as well.
Do I understand correctly that if I do the oil pump I am going to have to lock the crankshaft and that means taking the starter out? Also there are a couple of comments about things are different to change the rear belt on 07 models to what Disco_Mickey has outlined at the start of the thread - something about covers etc - what are the differences.
I was going to do this work myself but having read through the whole thread I am having second thoughts. How do you make a fan removal tool??
Thanks
Garry
26th Jan 2015 7:44 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Still not sure on this - any advice?
29th Jan 2015 12:09 am
Rich84
Member Since: 25 Jun 2013
Location: South Australia
Posts: 238
garrycol wrote:
Been reading this thread as I need to do the belts as it has been 7 1/2 years since the car was sold. I have done a Freelander diesel belts a couple of times and the basic principle is the same as the 2.7. I was happy to just mark the crankshaft but as my engine is an 07MY I am going to do the oil pump as well.
Do I understand correctly that if I do the oil pump I am going to have to lock the crankshaft and that means taking the starter out? Also there are a couple of comments about things are different to change the rear belt on 07 models to what Disco_Mickey has outlined at the start of the thread - something about covers etc - what are the differences.
I was going to do this work myself but having read through the whole thread I am having second thoughts. How do you make a fan removal tool??
Thanks
Garry
Hi Garry,
Definitely worth doing the pump as well, especially considering the very reasonable cost of the part! My 08MY Sport was part of the Euro IV fuel pump recall in 2010 which involves the pump obviously but THE BELT KIT too. Hence I didn't bother replacing my HPFP belt, and it will stay there until 2017 or the pump dies (whichever is first obviously!) For the front belt and oil pump, you will need the following parts:
-belt kit including belt, tensioner pulley and pulley bolt
-2x large idler pulley
-oil pump
-front main seal
-front pulley bolt
You'll need a comprehensive set of tools including e-torx sockets for the pulleys, a good torque wrench that is accurate at 100nm and one accurate at 24nm, a 1200mm(ish) breaker bar, and a set of locking tools for the crank and cam shafts. The locking tools are available at all the UK parts stores online. I bought the Britpart set - which worked well after I ground about 1mm off the outer diameter of the locking pin (too big for the hole!!).
For the visco fan, I use a pry bar to hold the pulley in place while giving the fan nut a few good taps with a large enough spanner - it's reverse thread so it undoes clockwise. Some people have made a pulley holder, but that way works for me.
If you're doing the oil pump too then yes you'll need to remove the starter - you need to remove several parts first including the alternator, fuel cooler and a couple of brackets - it's doable but it is quite tight. I just swung my starter out of the way enough to give access to get the locking tool in place. From there you can lock the cam pulleys and then use a LARGE (I used 1200mm) breaker bar to crack undone the crank bolt.
I then removed the belt and all pulleys, including the crank pulley (it's not keyed to the crankshaft - hence why you need to be careful about locking the engine). From there the oil pump is quite easy to replace - Flack has done a write up on here somewhere. Replace it along with a new front main seal and crank bolt - torque for the bolt is 100nm + 90deg - again you'll need a large breaker bar and an angle gauge or some other way of working out the torque angle - I just marked the start position with a permanent marker and torqued 90deg from there.
You don't need to be too careful about the phase of the crank pulley either - you can adjust the cam pulleys to compensate by rotating them on their slotted holes and then torquing them back up again. This makes it easy to get the new belt on.
Once you're happy with the positioning of the belt, use a hex key to engage the tensioner until the correct tension has been reached (arrow aligns with the tensioner window) and torque the tensioner bolt to 24nm. Then torque the cam pulley phase bolts to 23nm. Remove the locking tools and turn the engine over a few times with a ratchet. Double check torques and put it all back together!
There's a few how to's on here about replacing the pump and belts - I won't rewrite those, but that was my experience. Overall it was quite a straightforward job.2008 RRS TDV6 - Chawton White/Black/Lined Oak - 20's, h/k, sunroof - 350K KM.
2010 Audi A6 3.0T S-Line - Phamtom Black/exclusive 2-tone valcona 184K
2000 Audi A4 avant 1.8t Q Sport - Phantom Black/black 385K KM
1990 Nissan Pintara TRX - red - lots of mods - 439K KM
29th Jan 2015 4:02 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
To lock the fan pulley to get the nut off I copied someone idea on here which was basically a flat piece of steel bar approx 3 feet long 3/4mm thick and 25 ish mm wide, cut a notch out and drill two holes for the pulley bolts to go through, I was genuinely surprised just how tight the nut was.
29th Jan 2015 7:43 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Thanks for both of those comments. It is the starter removal that has me most worried.
Rich - thanks for reminding me about the recall, as I had completely forgotten about that work - mine was done in December 2010 so like you I can wait until the end of 2017 or when my car gets to 210,000km which ever is the earliest. As I have only done 96,000km now I dont think I will get to 210K.
That information will save me some sore joints and a few scratches for another 3 1/2 years.
Well, I've been going all day on my timing belt, and it looks to be a few more hours work yet. I'm doing the oil pump at the same time and forthe life of me I can't the starter out of the way - just hits the engine mount. How the hell does everyone else get the dam thing out?
Took me long enough to get the hpfp belt tensioner on so I'm kinda over this by now
1st Feb 2015 11:08 am
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
Starter
Looking at the front of the car to the back,the starter needs unbolting and swivelling to the left keeping it tight in its mounting hole until the main positive stud sneaks past the engine mount (I know but it will) then just slide it back enough to get your timing tool in which is just above the starter hole
I also found it easier to remove the main positive cable from the alternator then the cable can drop down past the starter,I managed to grind a little off the engine mount when it was out to make removal easier next time or you could take 3mm or so off the starter stud a couple of pics that may help mine is a manual so you won't see the same in the flywheel hole if you have an auto but the same principle
Sorry the pics rotate when posted from my phone
Timing hole
Tool fitted
Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
IID Pro MV License - D3/4 RRS - Enabling, Updates,Transmission flushing.
Mobile or workshop,PM for details.
Eventually got the starter out. Every step of this dam job is turning out to be a real pain in the . I've called it quits after 13 hours worth of work and I still havent got the crank pulley off yet At this rate I reckon there's at least 6hrs worth of worth tommorow. I now can't be arsed making a puller for the crank pulley and I'll just buy one tommorow.
I'm going to have nightmares tonight about putting that starter back in
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
)...see my separate post 
. I've called it quits after 13 hours worth of work and I still havent got the crank pulley off yet 
At this rate I reckon there's at least 6hrs worth of worth tommorow. I now can't be arsed making a puller for the crank pulley and I'll just buy one tommorow.
