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daveyb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 135
  
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I have always stood by my set at a MAX lift of 2-1/4" (2" preferable). This was no accident. I tested for almost a year and a half before selling these. The Jrod guy needed to "one up" what was in the market so he chose 2-1/2" FIXED lift. Bigger is better, right? I do not see eye to eye with this guy at all. We have exchanged plenty of pointed words over the last year. He's a marketing guy that's in it for the money. I'm an off road enthusiast. BIG difference. Sorry YOU were one the test subjects - not his own rig.
Stock measurement of the Front rod is 85mm measured from center of eye to center of eye.
Stock measurement of the Rear rod is 115mm measured center of eye to center of eye.
What do the jrods spec out to? 2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
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 28th Jul 2011 1:39 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
  
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Or down to?
Yes there is a point at which it becomes a problem with the lift. As Davy I have said the JRs are too short.
They also put a lot more strain on the CVs which are pretty strong but will snap on a big boot on full lock at extended height. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
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| 28th Jul 2011 1:59 am |
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gdrider77
Member Since: 26 Jul 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 9
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I am going to measure the rods tomorrow. I am curious how long they are as well. I wish i had known about other options, but at the time all i knew was the johnson rods. I really would prefer some adjustable ones. Who has some that you would recommend?
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| 28th Jul 2011 4:18 am |
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~Rich~
Member Since: 16 Mar 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 627
 
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In case you missed it gdrider77:
~Rich~ wrote:This is sort of the beginning of the LLAMS:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic15211-120.html
Read through the pages for more info.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/114282-...4-rrs.html
Google LLAMS not Llama 
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| 28th Jul 2011 6:52 am |
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gdrider77
Member Since: 26 Jul 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 9
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Thanks for the links to the LLAMs stuff. For that money, seems better to just spend a bit more and buy the faultmate, and then i can control height and many other things.
I did measure my johnson rods.
Approximate (+/- .5mm) . Center to Center.
Front = 74mm
Rear = 100.50
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| 31st Jul 2011 6:32 pm |
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daveyb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 135
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gdrider77 wrote:Front = 74mm
Rear = 100.50
Uhhhhhh. Speechless. Maybe we can work a deal?? I'd love to see the set first hand. 2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
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| 1st Aug 2011 2:17 pm |
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gdrider77
Member Since: 26 Jul 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 9
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Daveyb.
I am assuming that by your last comment this is a bit extreme? What exactly are the specs on the Sasquatch rods? Just wondering how big of a difference they are.
And yes, i would consider working out some kind of deal. Feel free to PM me your thoughts.
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| 1st Aug 2011 5:08 pm |
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daveyb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 135
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My comes from the fact that the jrods are not equally shortened. At 74mm (11mm off) and 100.50mm (14.5mm off) all kinds of weird things happen. They should both be 10mm, 11mm or 12mm off as a set. By having such different lengths, the sensors are sending quite different values to the computers. Not to mention the constant demand of some sort of self-leveling compensation from Rear to Front.
The Sasquatch really has no spec per se. They are infinitely adjustable from 0mm to 15+mm. I do not recommend any shorter than 13mm as you can no longer align properly and you put undue strain on the mechanical components. 10mm-12mm is where you should be - equally  2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
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| 1st Aug 2011 7:03 pm |
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gdrider77
Member Since: 26 Jul 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 9
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WHOOPS
So i remeasured and i was off on the rear. It was 105...not 100.5. I mistyped/quoted.
So my rears on the Johnson rods are 105. So looks like they are 10mm shorter in rear, and still 74m min the front, so 11mm shorter in the front.
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| 5th Aug 2011 9:37 pm |
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jz-is-fishing
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: California
Posts: 4
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Hi Guys
I see the concerns and results of using the spacers, but I was hoping I could ask those of you that have used the spacers as to how the spacers affected the ride. Have any of you noticed how the ride was affected?
I'm curious if the lower internal pressure, in the air coil, required affects the sloppiness of the ride or if it is basicallty the same as the lift using the rod sensor approach?
I use the rod mod now at 12mm shorter and am looking at some 33" tires. To allow alignment for street driving I would prefer to have a fulltime 2" lift, also preferably with spacers in case I hit bumpstops with the larger tires. I have also installed an Emergency Air solution to each spring, basically with some airline tapped into the airline coming from the block valves to the air springs. This allows me to air up in an emergency, but only enough to get close to access height. With the spacers, I should be able to get it closer to normal ride height in an emergency, because of the lower air pressure in the bag, because it is the spacers that supply the hieght not increased air pressure.
I would imagine, but am only guessing that the increased pressure in the bag, from the shortened rods, would add some firmness to the suspension. The ToddCo spacers may make the ride a little sloppier. Is it noticeable? Any experience from those who have used the spacers would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers 2006 LR3 HSE, Safarigaurd Front Bumper, Superwinch EP9 with remotes, Traxide Dual Battery, ARB Compressor under hood, Baja Designs HID Soltek Lights, Power Inverter, TV, EBC Brakes, Skid Plates, Custom Steel Rear Bumper, Rover Specialties Sliders, Heavy Duty and Tow Packages, Connectivity Module, etc
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| 10th Dec 2011 6:43 pm |
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ryan-in-oregon
Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 17
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Unnecessary quote removed
So with my second fuel tank in the stock spare location and the spare tire mounted on the rear the rear suspension is too soft. I definitely wouldn't want to make it softer by running a spacer with the shorted rods although I too have thought about the spacers for the same reason as you. I would recommend the addition of a limiting strap if you do put them in... Ryan - W7HUN
05 V8SE 265/65R18 BFG AT, 28gallon Aux Fuel tank, Custom Fab rear bumper with wrap around protection and integrated swing-away tire carrier, Custom Rock Sliders, Toughbook mount w/cf-28, OnBoard Air
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| 12th Dec 2011 3:29 am |
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jz-is-fishing
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: California
Posts: 4
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Thanks Ryan
You know I've looked under there just for such a place to mount a strap - it's less than ideal. Know of anyone who has done it?
Based on force it would require no less than 2 straps, one either side of the shock turret, down to the lower Arm. Still it will likely not offer much or enough stopping as the strut swings in.
Anyway Cheers for the suggestion 2006 LR3 HSE, Safarigaurd Front Bumper, Superwinch EP9 with remotes, Traxide Dual Battery, ARB Compressor under hood, Baja Designs HID Soltek Lights, Power Inverter, TV, EBC Brakes, Skid Plates, Custom Steel Rear Bumper, Rover Specialties Sliders, Heavy Duty and Tow Packages, Connectivity Module, etc
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| 12th Dec 2011 3:45 am |
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ryan-in-oregon
Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 17
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Unnecessary quote removed
I do not and I haven't really looked much further into it although I was struggling with an idea of how to accomplish it. Ryan - W7HUN
05 V8SE 265/65R18 BFG AT, 28gallon Aux Fuel tank, Custom Fab rear bumper with wrap around protection and integrated swing-away tire carrier, Custom Rock Sliders, Toughbook mount w/cf-28, OnBoard Air
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| 12th Dec 2011 4:11 am |
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Sidestick
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2288
 
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Hi guys, this is what happened to me:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic159147.html
I have no spacer, standard suspension but bigger and heavy mud tires.
Using the Anitas suspension module (similar to LLAMS) and getting through twisting holes at full height (+12,5 cm from road height) i suppose that the pressure inside the airbags, added to the one pushed in from the opposite bag while the crosslink valve opens, is able to break the mechanical stop inside the suspension strut.
Next week i'm going to replace both front struts and i want to dismantle the broken unit to see what's gone wrong inside the strut.
I think that limiting straps are the right solution, cheap and safe - Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
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| 1st May 2017 4:59 pm |
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