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sijui
Member Since: 03 Mar 2006
Location: Rosebank
Posts: 81
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I am thinking of buying the Waeco CF 80 esky to plug in the rear 12v outlet. This unit is said to draw 5 amps and can spike to 6 or more at start up. I seem to remember people being concerned about the capabilty of the outlet (wiring) in dealing with this sort of use. I would appreciate people's experience with connecting fridges or other equipment to the rear outlet
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23rd Sep 2006 6:06 am |
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Jamo
Member Since: 18 Jan 2006
Location: Esperance, Western Australia
Posts: 1170
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I wasn't game to try, having had bad experiences in other cars, so I had a dedicated cable and plug run from my aux battery. Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
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23rd Sep 2006 6:48 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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why so large and I have heard that the Danfoss compressor can interfere with cb's. all my brothers have Engel's whilst I have a Waeco and wish I had paid the extra bucks.
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23rd Sep 2006 7:54 am |
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Slimer
Site Moderator
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295
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All the 12v outlets are rated to 15A (or is it 16A?) ISTR, no doubt TFC will come along and give us the facts soon The End
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23rd Sep 2006 8:39 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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manual states 180watts, so 15A would be correct
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23rd Sep 2006 8:46 am |
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Jamo
Member Since: 18 Jan 2006
Location: Esperance, Western Australia
Posts: 1170
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I've got an Evakool. It's got a Danfoss.
No interference with anything: car radio, satphone, UHF etc. Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
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23rd Sep 2006 9:32 am |
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sijui
Member Since: 03 Mar 2006
Location: Rosebank
Posts: 81
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thanks for the feedback
I wonder how Drivesafe is coming along with his dual battery system
I am tempted to wait for this but then I see people like Jamo with dual systems doing ok
I will be using a camper trailer which will have a power sytem (1 battery at least). this might sound stupid but will the camper trailer battery/ies get charged via the car when it is running . may be I better wait for the Drivesafe fix
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24th Sep 2006 12:23 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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depends on how your camper is wired but not from the black trailer socket. mine can be switched from the solar panel/generator setup to then draw from the car or have the car run the electric goodies until I get to my destination(not done it on the D3 yet)
Jamo, very happy yours works, that's nice, but from mags, an aquaitance and at 4x4 shows I've heard that the compressor can upset cb signals. like I said I have one in my camper and if you get too close with a handheld it does upset it and the info from the 4x4 show came from a radio manufacturer who had no interest in selling me a fridge and I geuss they might have an inkling into how radios work. just letting the public know that there may be issues and to take that into account, god knows I wouldnt want to influence people
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24th Sep 2006 1:06 am |
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Tony
Member Since: 20 Apr 2006
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 183
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I have a similar setup with my camper van, Silui. I use a redarc system (as I have used them on trucks for years without problems) to connect the van battery. In the absence of info on the D3 electrics, I connected a battery isolator directly to the D3 battery and ran a wire to the apprpriate pin on the black trailer plug at the rear bumper. It works without any problems and I also ran a cable to a lighter socket in the back of the car. (My 'povery pack' S does not come with a rear power socket). This socket is now permanently live, i.e. not controlled by the ignition switch.
Any competent auto electrician should be able to fit this up in a couple of hours, using, of course, fuses or circuit breakers at the battery end.
Cheers,
Tony. Ex Defender 110 200Tdi owner.
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24th Sep 2006 1:11 am |
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Jamo
Member Since: 18 Jan 2006
Location: Esperance, Western Australia
Posts: 1170
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Catweasel, I've noticed no problem and I supposeit depends upon how often you're on the radio if there is interference.
If you had a mate with a problem, then it's probably true, although you'd need to look at his whole setup. I've got heavy duty cable running to my fridge, rather than the flimsy stuff connected to the lighter sockets.
I don't believe it when the mags say things until I've seen it for myself, 'cause they have certain sponsorship arrangements that don't seem to be subject to the same declaration laws that the electronic media are! Cooper tyres and ARB for example, pay all the mags in oz to include their products into articles. Ron Moon in 4x4Australia is being paid by Nissan. The list goes on... Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
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24th Sep 2006 4:54 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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it was mostly the guys at 4x4 show's who gave unsolicited advice regarding the compressor and something to do with something blah blah. should've paid more attention but understood what I needed to know and I do have a CF80 in my camper, although handhelds, it does interfere sometimes, maybe shielding, suppression or something, a bit like a power tool affecting your tv and I did say that I'd heard and didn't give it as fact, just something to look for.
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24th Sep 2006 5:02 am |
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Jamo
Member Since: 18 Jan 2006
Location: Esperance, Western Australia
Posts: 1170
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sijui,
I have an odyssey 1200mjt linked up via a tjm controller.
As soon as drivesafe has his controller developed, I'll at least replace the tjm one with his. I'll see what his battery is too. The Odyssey is very good, but it's only 44AH and I'd like something wioth a bigger capacity if possible. But there's not a lot of space under the aux battery cover.
I think that one of the big problems that drivesafe came up with was that the starting battery is lead calcium and the charging setup of the D3 will reduce the life of any other type.
My car has not indicated any problems with having the aux battery connected, like was thought may happen. It's been there for about 30,000km now. Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
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24th Sep 2006 5:37 am |
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Haggis
Member Since: 26 Jun 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 126
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I am using an Optima Yellow Top and Drivesafe's SC40LR isolator. It hasn't been in long enough to draw any real conclusions from yet. I am about to disappear into the outback for a month to try it and some other stuff out....
I thought it might be interesting to hear why I selected these products. It's a long story - so if you are not interested drop out now....
The SC40LR is aledgedly the only battery isolator that LandRover will continue to honour warranty once installed. Having said that, I have seen no documentary evidence of the same. Neither could I get the dealer to confirm this. (For the record, the service department of the dealer recommends the Piranha product.)
There were two other reasons I was pursuaded:
1. I spoke to Drivesafe at length and, unlike other manufacturers, he was not dismissive of my concerns and did not always drag the conversation back to his product. Other manufacturers have, in their effort to sell me their product, told me things I knew were wrong.
2. The product is clever, simple, and relatively low cost (on average 35% of the cost of the competition). Check the manufacturer web site out for why it is smarter than most.
I selected the Optima Yellow Top because it was the largest capacity (55A/Hr @ 20Hr) battery that fits in the space under the bonnet, and it is OK with high charge voltages (more OK than all other batteries I looked at).
If you have checked for threads on this forum for dual battery systems you will be familiar with the potential problem for the Disco3 charging system to peak out at up to 15.5V in an effort to maintain charge of the Lead/Calcuim battery during peak usage. I think this is probably tempreture related (ie colder means more capcity required, means higher charge voltage), so in Australia there is a reasonable chance it will never happen.
As far as I can tell the high charge voltage is not a requirement of the Lead/Calcium battery but it can cope with it. It is a method to maintain charge/capacity. Remember the only thing the charge circuit can do is regulate voltage. (Given I am no expert I expect I will be howled down if I have made phony assumptions at this point).
So, I selected a battery that could also handle high voltage for charging. The Yellow Top specifications indicate 15.6V limit (regulated), no current limit, and a tempreture limit (<52C) for rapid charging. The SC40LR has a maximum current of 40A (circuit breaker), so I figure limiting the current will also limt the tempreture (since heat is a function of power and by limiting the current I am limiting the power). It is an expensive battery, but the benefits seemed to outweigh that (for me at least). D3 (06) SE TDV6, Rear Locker, Rear Air, ARB bar w/winch, Safari Snorkel, 110l aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar (twin wheel carrier), Black Widow rear storage system, Rhino rack, GME UHF, Codan HF, IPF HID lights, CSA Explorer 17" w/BFG Mud Terrain KM2 - see Australian 4WD Monthly #103
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25th Sep 2006 7:02 am |
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Jamo
Member Since: 18 Jan 2006
Location: Esperance, Western Australia
Posts: 1170
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Well, now I have to eat my words!
I put the fridge in the car and went for a 500km drive today (work). Turned on the radio to test interference.
Crackling on FM when the fridge compressor was on and really bad static on AM.
CD fine. UHF radio and Satphone fine. (I suppose because both have external antennas).
Interesting, because the Subaru has a glass mounted aerial for the radio (same position as the D3) but have never had a problem in it!
Not to worry, don't listen to the radio much when travelling. Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
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25th Sep 2006 8:14 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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depends also on the quality of the cb as shielding is poor on cheaper ones and doesn't usually extend to the PCB.
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25th Sep 2006 8:16 am |
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