SpiderBaby
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i am just about to change the rear pads.
the new pads have a chamfer on one edge.
which way do they go chamfer to the rear or chamfer to the front.
thanks I see no ships........
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7th Dec 2008 11:48 am |
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Bodsy
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Chamfer to the lower side. You can't go front/rear as they only fit in one way (although you could get them upside down. Chamfer is only there to help guide the disk on initial bedding in. Did you not get fitting instructions in the pad kit? Bodsys Brake Bible
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7th Dec 2008 11:54 am |
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SpiderBaby
D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1407
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Hi Ian,
I did get fitting instructions but they show a chamfer on both edges!
When you say lower side is that the direction of travel? E.g on the offside (drivers side) do the chamfers go towards the front of the car or the rear?
While I'm here..... how do you rotate the rear disk to slacken off the EPB adjuster? Mine only moves a fraction in the direction of travel - the prop shaft rotates and it feels like I'm trying to turn the whole engine!
Any help gratefully received...... I see no ships........
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7th Dec 2008 12:43 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
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do you have it in park or neutral ? Duncan
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7th Dec 2008 1:20 pm |
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DN
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I agree the instructions are not clear on this, the chamfers should all be at the bottom.( so as when the disc rotates as the car is going forwards, the chamfer is at the leading edge). You will probably have to have all wheels off the ground, and in neutral to be able to turn anything (although I haven't had to do this yet on mine,so not 100% on that).
Last edited by DN on 7th Dec 2008 1:27 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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7th Dec 2008 1:22 pm |
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SpiderBaby
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Hi - I've got it in Park (which did seem odd) as the instructions I've read intimate.
I'm guessing Neutral is the way to go? I see no ships........
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7th Dec 2008 1:25 pm |
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Bodsy
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Sorry, had to do some work on the house.....
Chamfer already answered, but to turn the wheel, you need neutral, chock the front wheels and lift the rear. Can be done one wheel at a time.
Personally I put the epb into service mode to make sure it's not engaged. If your adjusting epb too (I would even if you don't have a screamer yet) then you need a socket on the centre nut in the hub. Best to use torque wrench as you need to adjust so that it moves only from 40 to 70lb.
HTH Bodsys Brake Bible
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7th Dec 2008 3:44 pm |
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SpiderBaby
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Ian / Dunc / DND3 - thanks for the replies.
I got my head in gear (blame it on man flu...) and got everything sorted. I checked the EPB shoes against new sets I got from TLO - the difference was ~1mm so I left the old ones in. Didn't seem worth replacing them just yet.
The disks were just on 18mm - new is a little over 20mm and the hub is stamped 17mm minimum - so replacement was due.
I did, however, clear out a fair bit of mud, pieces of bracken and some other lumps of crud from the EPB area. I know several people have pondered this but is there no way to seal the mechanism off from the ingress of the bigger bits? One for the more technical I guess.
A couple of things I did notice that maybe someone could explain were:
1. The pads had worn fairly unevenly. The outer pads were down to 4mm (O/S) / 4.5mm (N/S) while the inner pads (nearest the piston) were 7mm (O/S) and 4.1mm (N/S). Does this indicate a problem with the piston on the O/S?
2. The EPB drum on the old disks had a 'lip' of 1mm - just like the wear lip you get on 'proper' drum braked wheels. As the EPB is only used when the car is stopped (or at least that's how I do it....) how does the wear occur?
Having seen the difference in pad wear, I'm going to rely on visual checks when I rotate / swap wheels rather than use the wear indicator. In fact, it was falling to pieces so I cut and shut it and taped it out of harms way.
After adjusting everything according to instructions and running the bedding in procedure, everything seems fine - certainly none of the 'banging and clanging' I had been getting.
Thanks for all the help - especially Bodsy - 'top banana' status duly awarded I see no ships........
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7th Dec 2008 9:34 pm |
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Bodsy
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No problem, glad all the bumf worked!
No 1 definately sounds like a stuck piston. Get it checked out if I were you otherwise your barnes could be out of balance. However, you may have freed it when you pushed the pistons back to fit the pads.
Point 2, they will get applied when any if the traction assurance or hdc is used I think. Did you scrape around with a file or sandpaper? Bodsys Brake Bible
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7th Dec 2008 10:18 pm |
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DN
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SpiderBaby, if it helps, my rear pads were similarly unevenly worn (down to 1.5mm on O/S outer ) quite a bit more left on the rest. The pistons were free enough , but I noticed there was not much grease on the pins that the caliper slides on (factory tight@rses). I cleaned and re- lubed these, hoping it might make a difference next time, will have to see how it goes. Glad you got it sorted.
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7th Dec 2008 10:46 pm |
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Bodsy
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When I did mine, they were all worn evenly. 2.5-3mm left. Bodsys Brake Bible
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8th Dec 2008 9:09 am |
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SpiderBaby
D3 Decade
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Hi Bodsy - the pistons moved freely enough on both sides. To be certain I gave them as good a clean as I could without taking the caliper apart - done that on enough early Jap bikes to be fed up with it.
I gave the EPB shoes a light scuff with sandpaper to break any glaze, followed by a hose down with brake cleaner (which seems pretty similar to the old mainframe tape deck cleaners I used to use...).
Having run it last night and this morning everything seems grand with the EPB - just got to bed the new pads / disks in now.
And then off to fill it up with mud again at Bala!
Cheers... I see no ships........
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8th Dec 2008 11:25 am |
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Bodsy
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Will see you there! Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
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8th Dec 2008 6:49 pm |
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