Can anybody give me any specs (voltage, power etc) for the heater matrix fan motor shown at D. Also, how is the cover A removed?
cheers Kev
2nd Dec 2008 8:30 am
DiscoStu
Member Since: 09 Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 11412
Cover A - 1 torx screw at the front end, remove the rubber seal from the back door (just pull clear of trim A, remove the cord holding the lower tailgate (at the tailgate end), and then pull from the top.
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
You have 1 phillips screw hidden under a plastic flap about half way up the door and the Torx screw which attaches the safety belt to undo.
remove the plastic cover than goes over the tailgate latch, then pull from the top, nearest the tail gate. then unplug the wires from the 12v power socket
Note, cant remember about left hand side but on the right hand side there is a plastic drain tube that can get crimped and blocked if you dont push it out of the way when refitting and tightening the phillips screw.Duncan
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The reason behind my question is that I am thinking of isolating and then running the fan motor shown at D. I assume its just 12v d.c. but you never can tell with the D3.....
kev
2nd Dec 2008 3:27 pm
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
Hi Kev,
I've had a quick look into this and it could prove tricky...
I think that there is a relay in the BJB that is used to power up the motor (so far so good) - I suppose you could circumvent this if you wanted to try and turn the motor on.
Although 12V is provided to the Fan Motor directly from the relay, to make the motor turn it needs to be grounded and this isn't done directly to 0V but via the Fan Control Module.....
This is where it gets tricky....The Fan Control Module measures parameters from the climate control unit and the rear climate control bits (via the LIN bus) and then uses PWM to 'vary' the voltage being applied to the motor by grounding the fan motor voltage using a square wave (i.e. 'on for a bit', 'off for a bit', 'on for a bit' etc etc).....and therefore varying the speed at which the motor runs. It also controls the hot/cold air mixing flappy thingies and based upon signals from various sensors...
Of course you could just try powering it up via the relay (sorry but I don't know which relay it is) and physically grounding it to see if it runs properly, but seeing as how so many other parameters are taken into account for the fan motor to run, I think you could be asking for trouble
What I mean is that although +12V may be used to 'power up' the fan control module, as mentioned it doesn't necesarily mean that a constant 12V should be used to power the motor. If you tried it, then maybe it would rev it so hard that it would explode (exagerating a little maybe). Another thing is that if you just power-up the Fan Control Module then it may simply refuse to power up the motor if it is missing other signals
I hope most of the above makes sense, but I'm rushing a bit
Out of interest, what is the idea behind powering up just the fan? Dogs in the boot?
Cheers,
Paul2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
I've been out tonight and set the fan blower to max and then disconnected the two pin plug from the fan body. There is just over 12v so I'm going to guess that it will run ok with direct 12v as long as the fan is isolated until the car is running.
My big idea is to use the rear heater to pre warm the cab when the webasco timer is triggering the FBH to do its stuff
I applied 12v to the rear heater blower motor when the Webasco timer is triggering the FBH and it works.
However, the heat produced is only enough to make the rear two seats toast, the middle three ok but the front two certainly not worth the effort. It draws 10amps when working.
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It draws 10amps when working.
