Member Since: 16 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 91
.. Follow up...
Latch failed again on a weekend away at the seaside just as we got back to the car with the kids bikes etc. So I had to go through the whole malarkey again. Turned out the Allen key was still attached to the cable, but it had jumped out of the plastic part, even with two cable ties round it (which were still there, tight around the plastic??!) Maybe I chose too thin an Allen key. Anyway, I ordered and fitted a new latch/cable assembly and it's all working well now, so fingers crossed that'll be it forever.
Just wanted to add a warning to people doing the Allen key- make sure it can't work its way out- if it can, it will!
7th May 2015 5:15 pm
harsab
Member Since: 16 Jan 2016
Location: Sola
Posts: 7
Tailgate motor repair
If your motor is slow or it slows down after a few activations the motor by itself can be disassembled and cleaned. This will speed up the motor and make it strong enough to pull the release wire.
There are a lot of instructions on how to disassembly and replace the talgate motor, so this guide starts after tailgate cower and motor has been removed.
The first part of this guide is for repairing the motor, the second part is for making an “emergency “ wire to manually release the tailgate.
After I assembled the motor I mounted a kind of emergency wire to be operated from inside the lower tailgate.
It’s made of a standard bicycle brake wire and secured by a socket like this one.
Click image to enlarge
[/b]
Last edited by harsab on 8th May 2016 9:17 am. Edited 2 times in total
7th May 2016 9:48 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Nice
7th May 2016 9:52 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Wow, amazing first post harsab, welcome aboard. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
7th May 2016 10:05 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
Nice work, if the motor fails its a great escape route, the more common failure is the 'L' shaped hook end of the cable which breaks, this won't help if that happens unless the emergency release is attached further up the cable?
7th May 2016 10:28 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Correct
The emergency release needs attached to the cable, not the actuatorMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 03 Mar 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 13
Upper tailgate actuator
For those in a pinch you can use the door lock actuator from a ford explorer it is 99% identical to the LR original and works perfect.
Dorman makes an replacement actuator that is identical to this (Dorman 746-158)
The only difference is the connector which can be made up, the power and ground are on the same side has OE.
You should remove the rubber spring and fit the OE metal spring. On both sides there will be mounts for the screws that need to be filed down level.
It mounts in the same position has OE. This actuator cost me $48.00 CDN
Mark.
8th Jul 2016 4:51 pm
Ladderman
Member Since: 24 Sep 2016
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 1
My Fix
My fix using 15 amp electrical connector and tie wraps with emergency release.
Click image to enlarge
24th Sep 2016 12:35 pm
stevep
Member Since: 16 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 91
If you're doing that, then do this...
So in the past few months, after first the allen key repair, then when that failed after a few weeks, a latch/cable replacement, recently my upper tailgate started opening less and less reliably until last week it stopped working completely... with a hired cement mixer and whacker plate machine in the boot. (For anyone who finds themselves in exactly the same position in future, the whacker fits out thru the passenger door, but the mixer doesn't. But at least my mixer was on a special offer weekly hire rate so I could afford to chauffeur it about for a few days.)
So it was back to the now all too familiar skinned knuckles and that tantalising feeling of stroking a bowden cable with the finger tip of a bent-backwards hand, but not being quite able to hook the finger around it because the hand is being cut into by the edge of the plastic cover that you're trying to simultaneously pry open.
After many curious stares from passers-by who were wondering what kind of strange domestic tragedy had unfolded that led me to shout obscenities at a cement mixer whilst inside a car boot, I finally popped open the latch. My actuator seemed to work, albeit too weakly to operate the latch. I had read on this forum that somebody had found a chafed wire beside a front seat which in turn led to a low power supply to the actuator, and I was worried this would be my problem since I've recently done the sunroof drain behind the fuse box, and also the green wire splice for the central locking due to the 'underwater loom' symptom that often follows the drain problem. But someone else said they had replaced the actuator and it fixed the problem. So I tried the new actuator first.
I'm happy to report that the difference was chalk and cheese, the new actuator pulled like a train. I guess you could dissassemble and clean the motor inside as someone mentioned above, but to be honest at £40 for the land rover part I'd rather take the hit than risk another set of skinned knuckles.
So the moral of the story (and my reason for posting)?... if you find yourself replacing the latch, do your hands a favour and do the actuator at the same time
6th Oct 2016 7:52 pm
Darlip
Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 24
Has anyone been able to open the trunk after it failed, while having a drawersystem installed in the back?
It's the top part that wont open, lower part I hope it still works.
Seems that I have a decent mess to deal with now...
2 button fix doesn't work, even got that programmed to my keyfob.
So in the past few months, after first the allen key repair, then when that failed after a few weeks, a latch/cable replacement, recently my upper tailgate started opening less and less reliably until last week it stopped working completely... with a hired cement mixer and whacker plate machine in the boot. (For anyone who finds themselves in exactly the same position in future, the whacker fits out thru the passenger door, but the mixer doesn't. But at least my mixer was on a special offer weekly hire rate so I could afford to chauffeur it about for a few days.)
So it was back to the now all too familiar skinned knuckles and that tantalising feeling of stroking a bowden cable with the finger tip of a bent-backwards hand, but not being quite able to hook the finger around it because the hand is being cut into by the edge of the plastic cover that you're trying to simultaneously pry open.
After many curious stares from passers-by who were wondering what kind of strange domestic tragedy had unfolded that led me to shout obscenities at a cement mixer whilst inside a car boot, I finally popped open the latch. My actuator seemed to work, albeit too weakly to operate the latch. I had read on this forum that somebody had found a chafed wire beside a front seat which in turn led to a low power supply to the actuator, and I was worried this would be my problem since I've recently done the sunroof drain behind the fuse box, and also the green wire splice for the central locking due to the 'underwater loom' symptom that often follows the drain problem. But someone else said they had replaced the actuator and it fixed the problem. So I tried the new actuator first.
I'm happy to report that the difference was chalk and cheese, the new actuator pulled like a train. I guess you could dissassemble and clean the motor inside as someone mentioned above, but to be honest at £40 for the land rover part I'd rather take the hit than risk another set of skinned knuckles.
So the moral of the story (and my reason for posting)?... if you find yourself replacing the latch, do your hands a favour and do the actuator at the same time
Brilliant post !
I've been there myself swearing at the vehicle !!BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
18th May 2017 8:43 pm
Gazellio
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
My wife's 2005 D3 has gone. For ages the upper tailgate would not latch first time and needed a good push/slam.
Now it will not open at all. Pressing key fob or dash button or two buttons makes an actuator sound but no movement in the upper tailgate at all.
Best way forward based on any clues above other than indy/dealer?
16th Jul 2017 6:31 pm
lr101fc
Member Since: 03 Jan 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 49
Tailgate not opening
Tailgate would not open, luckily the day before the dog had to go to the vet, so we used the other car
As there is a dog guard fitted, but than can be removed through rear passenger door. It would have been difficult with a 30kg Griffon Kortal desperate to get out at the same time.
Can only hear a click, when pressing the exterior or two interior buttons - I preferred the D1 setup with a physical handle inside, so sounds like actuator is not working. Add it to list - the 101 is taking my time at the moment. Winch has stopped working, just a click somewhere behind the winch. Electrical gremlins - just take time and patience to repair
I'll probably change the cable and actuator and maybe exterior switch all at the same time as the car is now 12 years old so, change one part and the other will probably fail soon after MY05 Discovery 3 G4 LRG4C-14 Stage 3 & 4 Bolivia Team Fleet 49
05HF95 Trailer 3/4 Ton 2 WHD
31FK70 Truck, Utility, 1/2 Ton, 4x4, LHD, Rover Series 1
69ER52 Truck, GS, 1/4 Ton, 4x4 Rover 8
75FL40 Truck, GS, 24v w/winch 1T 4x4 LHD Launcher Towing Rapier Rover
8th Aug 2017 3:08 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
D3 2008: Tailgate won´t open. Sounds like the Thread is broken. The actuator gives some sounds.
I read this fred. Gives me the confidence i can manage this.
Would like to know the part number of the Actuator and the thread.
19th Sep 2017 5:13 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
I managed to open the Tailgate.
The Latch is broken and the Actuator does not Funktion very well.
So i checked for a new one....
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum