taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
  
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Afternoon all
Picked up a D3 v8 recently, there's quite a strong fuel/exhaust (doesn't smell like raw petrol, more very pungent exhaust fumes) smell at idle. Not noticeable when driving at road speeds, but with the windows down stopped in traffic, or parking, it is pretty unpleasant.
v8 owners out there....is this normal?! It's been a while since I've owned anything with a hefty displacement, but I don't recall any noticeable smell from previous vehicles.
Assuming this is not normal, is there a standard diagnostic process to follow? Or a way to check IID live values to diagnose? There's no fault codes showing currently on the Gap tool.
Range on a full tank is showing about 260 miles. I don't know if that's relevant however my understanding is the standard range is c.350 miles, I had therefore wondered if she was running too rich (causing the smell).
Much appreciated.
Last edited by taters on 1st Sep 2024 5:51 pm. Edited 3 times in total
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 24th Jul 2024 1:32 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
 
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Okay…. Some ideas below.
In principle if the vehicle thinks it’s running too lean or too rich there should be a code for it, like too rich bank 1, etc. also the EML light tends be lit on the instrument panel. You need a code reader to see the fault codes but I assume you knew that already.
If you’ve got too much petrol in the exhaust it’ll eventually kill your catalytic converter. Not good. 
If the smell is more like a sulphuric smell (rotten eggs) then your cat is probably damaged already.
If it’s a sweet smell it’ll be coolant. But usually you’d notice this by a big  white cloud when you put the hammer down. 
If you’ve got an original MAF, it might make sense to try swapping it out for a brand new one. These seem to tire. You can try with CRC Air Sensor Cleaner but it won’t do miracles. You’ll most likely want a Denso since they’re the ones making these for the D3 V8 (and other brands) and it’ll be cheaper than the LR branded one. My average (calculated, not car computer one) fuel consumption went down 3 liters/100 km after changing. Also engine doesn’t hesitate. I was amazed.
If you swap the MAF you probably want to reset the adaptations, too. This can be done with an IID (and probably with other code readers too).
Another idea would be looking at the upstream and downstream O2 sensors (particularly the former since it affects fuel economy) but they’re kind of expensive to replace blindly and you’d probably want to diagnose them better before doing anything to them.
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| 24th Jul 2024 2:17 pm |
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taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
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Thanks kajtzu that's very helpful. I will look into the MAF side of things. Not sure if it's the original MAF, but I assume I can get a sticker number from it to check the age.
No fault codes annoyingly, so I'm assuming it's more of an 'on the edge' of failing type situation - that's assuming this isn't a normal exhaust pungency.
Certainly not a sweet smell. I don't *think* it would be described as eggy either, but it is certainly very strong.
Is it relatively straight forward to diagnose the O2 sensors using the GAP IID tool? Still a bit of a novice with it!
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| 24th Jul 2024 3:44 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
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Well you can see the O2 sensor voltage and some other values. I haven’t replaced mine but assumed that the voltage would either be high or low (or none) if they’d failed.
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| 24th Jul 2024 3:57 pm |
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taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
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MAF showing 1.6v at idle but I got a brief reading of 9g/s airflow and then went to 0 and couldn't get a reading of anything other than 0 again. 
To be honest I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly so I'll have to give it some time this weekend.
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| 24th Jul 2024 8:18 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
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What I noticed was that an old MAF becomes slow or insensitive (less accurate) somehow. The new MAF is more accurate which affects of course the throttle position.
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| 25th Jul 2024 9:30 am |
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taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
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My hunch says it's the original MAF sensor so could well be due a clean or swap. It's a Delphi part, which I believe is OEM. Unfortunately the date code stamped on it doesn't seem to be decodable without insider knowledge!
I was also wondering if fuel might make a difference, will try Sainsbury's ultra low sulphur stuff next time I fill up.
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| 25th Jul 2024 9:13 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
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It should be Denso who is the OEM MAF for D3 V8, D3 V6 and a few other models.
FWIW, I run 95E10 (equivalent to 95 RON with max. 10% ethanol) and sometimes 98E5. Mostly the former.
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| 25th Jul 2024 9:54 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
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Also if it were original it should (I think) have one or more of the following: LR oval logo, part number PHF000140 and/or engineering number (for lack of a better word) like 5H22-12B57–AA (5H = MY05, 12B579 = the callout, AA = flavor or revision )
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| 25th Jul 2024 10:05 pm |
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taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
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I **think** this may have been the fuel.
Today after filling up with the low sulphur stuff, it's sweet as anything. Totally smell free.
I'll see how she fares after a longer drive this weekend however.
Got a few other bits and bobs to do, mainly minor stuff I think - parking sensors, heated seats - will put up a separate build thread this weekend.
Good to know re. the parts. Going to print off the relevant bits from the workshop manual. I'd love it if Haynes did a 4.4L version of their book 
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| 26th Jul 2024 4:59 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
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A friendly suggestion - edit your profile to reflect the vehicle you have. It’ll be easier for people to help you with any advice.
YouTube is full of good videos. Sometimes you’ve got to refer to the discovery 3 as LR3 and you’ll find videos for the V8 (or V6) petrol version. Much of the basic stuff can be seen in videos created by Atlantic British (an east coast Land Rover garage). They also have a nice maintenance sheet here, https://www.roverparts.com/account/mainten...IT1050.pdf. Ignore their part numbers, everything can be found in Europe (and UK, I assume) readily available.
Also especially for the V8, www.landroverforums.com has a lot of Americans with them and plenty of troubleshooting instructions and tricks. Besides the engine related stuff, everything else (non-engine specific) can be found on this forum.
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| 26th Jul 2024 5:46 pm |
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taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
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Will do
Thanks for the info and tips, appreciate it. Lots to learn but excited to finally be in a LR 
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| 27th Jul 2024 1:54 pm |
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taters
Member Since: 14 May 2024
Location: Scotland
Posts: 22
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Seems to have returned unfortunately.
Symptoms:
1) strong gasoline fumey smell from rear, I think it's stronger near the filler cap (yes, cap is closed ).
2) only appears to happen when fuel tank is around half full or less. Filling the tank up stops the smell until it's about half full again then it returns.
Current thoughts:
1) the half empty thing hopefully narrows it down? However everything online seems to talk about fuel smells that appear only when people have a full tank, not a half empty one - what's going on here...
2) could it be a clogged charcoal canister that needs replacing? There's not much information online about this so any help is greatly appreciated!
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| 1st Sep 2024 5:58 pm |
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