Member Since: 06 Nov 2014
Location: St. Helens
Posts: 31
Front propshaft removal and refitting questions
Front diff was diagnosed as being at fault (sounds like a washing machine barrel coming loose at speed) so thought I would give it a go to learn something and save money. Old diff out no real problems, however, front propshaft is now giving me some level of grief as I underestimated how much of a PITA the front prop is compared to the rear. I used some of the pointers but cannot find a definitive answer to removal and refitting. Anywho my questions are:
1. How easy is it to remove the propshaft from the flange in the transfer box and can I use a drift instead of a cold chisel while rotating the prop - 180 deg, then 180 then 90
2. Once out of the transfer box, and I plan to reuse it, can I just slide it to the left side out of the way to get the diff back in?
3. What is the procedure to refit the propshaft back into their prospective homes in the transfer box and front diff?
Thanks for your helpNew to modding my disco 3
Added the forum badges front, back and one side so far
21st Aug 2024 3:06 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4465
If I remember from doing my front diff, it's easier if you take the gearbox crossmember off.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
21st Aug 2024 4:03 pm
Discodancer06
Member Since: 06 Nov 2014
Location: St. Helens
Posts: 31
Im a bit apprehensive to start undoing the crossmember if the bolts are seized and the captive nuts start spinning. Is there a surefire way to stop the scenario of that? Can the gearbox support be removed instead to make a bit of space?New to modding my disco 3
Added the forum badges front, back and one side so far
21st Aug 2024 4:25 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4465
No captive nuts IIRC, just nuts and bolts. . It's the actual crossmember that needs to be out of the way to drop the propshaft, don't think removing the gearbox mount helps much.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
21st Aug 2024 4:30 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4928
As Richard say's the answer lies in the crossmember but you don't have to take it off!
Mark the position of the joints relevant to the diff and the transfer box couplings. Use a wooden drift and a hammer to shock the joint loose but be careful here not to damage the joint.
Undo the transmission mount bolt and then remove the passenger side crossmember bolts only! Use a large pry bar to pull the crossmember down on that side and you'll have enough clearance to slide the shaft out rearwards.
Realign the prop with the marks you made earlier, then reassemble using new coupling bolts only as there is a high likelihood they will snap yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
21st Aug 2024 5:33 pm
Discodancer06
Member Since: 06 Nov 2014
Location: St. Helens
Posts: 31
Thank you
Next question - once off, how can I reinstall to the transfer box and diff? Is it tapped back into place?New to modding my disco 3
Added the forum badges front, back and one side so far
23rd Aug 2024 12:18 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4928
You don't need to remove the transfer box, just the bolt through crossmember mount. The diff is just raised back into position!
The crossmember will be stiff so a large pry bar is needed,(eg steel tubing) but it can be helped if you can loosen the drivers side crossmember bolts a little. The tank guard fouls this but it's doable.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum