Today I looked at the valve block, because from time to time it showed that I had a suspension failure.
I removed both front and rear.
I took some photos.
Front Valve
Real Valve
This is what they look like inside
13th Feb 2023 6:16 pm
adm013
Member Since: 15 Nov 2015
Location: Western Isles
Posts: 25
You can buy replacement o-rings online for them. Just did all mine recently while tracing an inssue, fairly straightforward.
13th Feb 2023 7:36 pm
TST717
Member Since: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Inverness
Posts: 2
I have a similar intermittent message and I suspect something similar may be the issue .... were the valves hard to access & remove?
20th Mar 2024 7:50 am
jackvoyager
Member Since: 02 Oct 2020
Location: UK
Posts: 32
Hi.
There are practically no difficulties at the front.
To unscrew the rear pneumatic lines, you need a 12 mm open-end wrench (short) and some effort.
20th Mar 2024 11:48 am
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2541
Push fit connectors a must when replacing. Makes the removal of the rear a 5min job.
Never did well with the rebuild O rings and ended up replacing the valve blocks.
20th Mar 2024 12:57 pm
Trickysummer
Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Maidenhead
Posts: 19
I had a slow air leak on my ‘12 D4 a few years back, resulted in the compressor burning out, after replacing that I also changed the front air junction box, as I recall it was a very easy 15 min job & it’s been fine since. The rebuild option for me wasn’t worth the time or risk of not being sure it was fully air tight.
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