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johnlong
Member Since: 28 Oct 2023
Location: oxon
Posts: 10
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Disco 4 steering wheel has a mind of its own |
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Hi car is a L R discovery 4 2014, drove the car about 1 and a half miles one morning when the steering went heavy, stopped the car and checked the P/S fluid reservoir empty, but could see fluid running down onto the floor when looking under the car, managed to get the car back home later acquired two decent car jacks, after jacking the front of the car up and removing the skid tray I noticed one of the two metal pipes that are attached to the steering rack was corroded and leaking (very simular looking like brake pipes), replaced both pipes but after topping the reservoir back up to bleed the air out, with the engine started the steering wheel adjusts itself to the memory setting, then begins to turn left and right on its own (but not a full lock) quite vigorously the only way to stop it is to turn the engine off, the reservoir fluid level remains the same as when I started. Any ideas on this would be helpful
Last edited by johnlong on 28th Oct 2023 3:55 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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28th Oct 2023 8:12 am |
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eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 783
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what fluid did you put back in ? please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
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28th Oct 2023 11:04 am |
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johnlong
Member Since: 28 Oct 2023
Location: oxon
Posts: 10
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Hi there thanks for your interest being I live out in the sticks a bit and obviously had no transport I ask a friend to collect 2 ltrs of p/s fluid from the local town he did assure me the guy in the shop checked to see if it was suitable for land rovers, product label says GRANVILLE POWER STEERING FLUID however only half a ltre was used to top up the reservoir, as I mentioned before the level has not gone down because of the issues when I start the engine the steering wheel almost violently you could call it starts turning left and right on it’s own ( about one third of a full steering wheel cycle this will alternate left then right every three or four seconds) . I now have an added problem of low battery message I can put this down to me trying to bleed the p/s manually by lifting the wheels off the ground and turning steering wheel by hand with just the ignition switched on still no joy bleeding the p/s system. Hope this helps ps don’t worry about the spelling or grammar
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28th Oct 2023 3:44 pm |
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Hardware
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: Hiding under the M60
Posts: 12880
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I've had Granville brand stuff delivered by Ford main dealers in the past, so it's almost certainly a reasonable quality.
As for right grade ... I don't think even if it were the wrong grade you'd get this issue.
Airlock in the tubing? .
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
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28th Oct 2023 4:10 pm |
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eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 783
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johnlong wrote:Hi there thanks for your interest being I live out in the sticks a bit and obviously had no transport I ask a friend to collect 2 ltrs of p/s fluid from the local town he did assure me the guy in the shop checked to see if it was suitable for land rovers, product label says GRANVILLE POWER STEERING FLUID however only half a ltre was used to top up the reservoir, as I mentioned before the level has not gone down because of the issues when I start the engine the steering wheel almost violently you could call it starts turning left and right on it’s own ( about one third of a full steering wheel cycle this will alternate left then right every three or four seconds) . I now have an added problem of low battery message I can put this down to me trying to bleed the p/s manually by lifting the wheels off the ground and turning steering wheel by hand with just the ignition switched on still no joy bleeding the p/s system. Hope this helps ps don’t worry about the spelling or grammar
did you turn the wheel lock to lock without the engine running to bleed the pipes ? l/r as far as I'm aware only list cold climate fluid for the p/s personally i would not use anything else as the cold climate fluid is like water how thick was the fluid you put in ? please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
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28th Oct 2023 4:58 pm |
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Hardware
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: Hiding under the M60
Posts: 12880
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The "cold climate" is for "not in the Sahara" climates, so most stuff you buy in Europe should meet the spec. .
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
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28th Oct 2023 7:30 pm |
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johnlong
Member Since: 28 Oct 2023
Location: oxon
Posts: 10
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In reply to eightfoots last questions yes I turned the steering wheel lock to lock (with the engine off) I think about ten times, although I’m no expert on oil thickness or viscosity the GRANVILLE fluid looks very similar to what I have used in the past, but as I see it because the reservoir has never gone down from the initial first top up, the granville fluid has not reached the main parts of the p/s system correct me if I am wrong, anyway I shall keep trying to come up with the answer this week obviously trying to avoid the high cost of using garages to repair what I thought would be a relativity easy job to do
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29th Oct 2023 8:50 pm |
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eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 783
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well if it was me IF all was well before you changed the p/s pipes then i would check if they are connected the right way around (dont know if you can get them wrong) then empty the fluid from the res and rack then refill with cold climate fluid from a l/r dealer as you have done nothing else have you ?? please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
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30th Oct 2023 10:31 am |
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johnlong
Member Since: 28 Oct 2023
Location: oxon
Posts: 10
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Before the steering rack pipe leak everything was working fine, all I have done is replaced the two pipes that attach to the steering rack, I agree with your suggestion and had already made my mind up to go back to square one this afternoon, meaning as you said empty the reservoir remove the two pipes (check any blockages or kinks in the pipes) then drain out all the rest of the fluid, and carry on reassembling finally try and bleed the system again, all the time keeping my fingers crossed. ps the pipes can only fit one way
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30th Oct 2023 1:30 pm |
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eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 783
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using cold climate fluid ?? please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
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30th Oct 2023 1:44 pm |
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Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1583
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Simple and probably stupid question, but thought I’d ask just in case. Did you leave the fluid reservoir cap off when turning steering wheel full lock to full lock? Gary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
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30th Oct 2023 3:12 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2321
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I honestly thought that the PS bleeding process involved moving lock to lock several times, with reservoir cap off, or loose, with engine running (ie hydraulic pump running), whilst topping up fluid if needed. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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30th Oct 2023 3:32 pm |
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Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1583
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Yes, should be left loose/off. That's why I asked. Gary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
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30th Oct 2023 3:57 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2321
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The ‘engine running’ bit was my main point. Not sure that the OP has tried this He said he moved lock to lock approx 10 times, WITHOUT engine running. That would normally have been a ‘work out’ in itself But perhaps he found it easy to move, because there may be very little fluid in the system, to create such resistance. Running the engine (ie hyd pump) would push the fluid fully around the system, and get rid of the air. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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30th Oct 2023 4:04 pm |
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johnlong
Member Since: 28 Oct 2023
Location: oxon
Posts: 10
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In answer to DN and Gary_p questions by the way thanks for your interest, I did leave the res cap off and DN was right it was a work out when turning the steering wheel lock to lock with just the ignition on, but as soon as I start the engine the steering wheel goes crazy you cannot forcibly take over control of the steering wheel, so here’s an update this afternoon I syphoned out the res removed both pipes and got most I think of the fluid out of s/rack, also checked both pipes for blockages and kinks they appeared just fine, reassembled everything back together but had to call it a day as it was starting to get dark (I am doing this outside no garage) bit of good news a friend of mine knows a mobile mechanic who says if I can hold on to tomorrow afternoon he will give me a hand to hopefully bleed the p/s system so lets see how this pans out
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30th Oct 2023 6:00 pm |
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