Member Since: 29 Aug 2022
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
YouaTube video should be viewable now, apologies and thanks
14th May 2023 8:30 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
No, you need to start it and then switch off. Cycle!!
Then you can see or hear the solenoid.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
14th May 2023 8:39 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
GLEOIRL wrote:
Tried the following tasks to date to try and resolve the issue:
* Blanked both EGRs with blanking plates.
Did you blank the pipes where they meet the throttle body? You also need to remove the butterfly from the throttle housing when the EGR's have been blanked.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
14th May 2023 10:05 pm
GLEOIRL
Member Since: 29 Aug 2022
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Hi PROFSR G
Appreciate your ongoing support here.
New video uploaded showing actuator movement at startup and shutdown.
* I don't have blanks for the manifold side, so just blanks by way of the EGRs. Butterfly not yet removed as I didn't want to pull everything apart again before checking the actuator again.
* I swapped over the EGR to inlet manifold pipes on both sides this morning, just in case one of the originals had a pi hole or break in them, but this didn't resolve the boosted fault either.
* Took it for a small run this morning, it's still very smoky even with EGRs blanked.
* The cylinder balancing hasn't really changed either - see below
* I did not within the IIDTOOL this morning that under the service menu the EGRs can be modified but it's down as N/A yet the % look odd from bank 0 to bank 1.
See attached
15th May 2023 11:13 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
OK so your problem is either the turbo actuator solenoid rod has become detached, or the solenoid is kaput, hopefully not the latter. I can see this in your video as the movement of the rod is absolutely incorrect!!
It should move away from you about 15mm, return, move away again 15mm, and then return. The movement that is visible I'm betting is the ball end on the solenoid striking the hanging detached rod!
Get an eye ball on it from above or with an inspection camera to confirm detachment.
Plug it back in and give her welly down the motorway, hopefully all will then be well.
You're nearly there
Forget about the EGR's, they're blanked so no longer an actor!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th May 2023 11:56 am
GLEOIRL
Member Since: 29 Aug 2022
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Thanks again Profsr G
So is that accessible at all to re connect
From the wheelarch or from below by was of the prop shaft?
Does it just push back and snap into place?
I'm wondering now, if when I was doing the EGRs and lost bolts perhaps I poked about and accidentally knocked off the actuator arm at one end, otherwise it's an odd coincidence to have happened on the same day as I did the EGRs.
See picture below from a LRTIME video /screenshot.
So you think the top end ( yellow circle) .is perhaps detatched?
15th May 2023 12:41 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Not accessible from below unless you're related to Harry Hudini.
You'll have to get at it from above by climbing onto the engine and getting your hand down there.
You might have to remove the EGR again for access, I can't remember how I did it last time. (brain becoming more mushy with each passing day)
Get a visual on it first before you start doing anything, an inspection camera is a wise addition to your tool box.
Drive shaft removal will do nothing to assist you.
Yes, it snaps back onto the ball end.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th May 2023 12:56 pm
GLEOIRL
Member Since: 29 Aug 2022
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Some feedback from IIDTools.
The control IO dont always work thus shall not be considered.
P004800 Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Circuit High
Variable geometry turbocharger (VGT) actuator circuit short circuit to power
VGT actuator failure
ECM failure
Refer to the electrical guides and check the VGT circuit. Refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual if a module is suspect.
Wiring issue would be next, attached...
Click image to enlarge
15th May 2023 2:00 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Yes that's correct but you need to physically check the rod first before going down that route.
It's rare for that plug to give trouble, and the last time someone on here had a similar issue all the car needed was a blast down a motorway. And that was after they had taken half the front of the car apart despite being advised otherwise!
If the rod is attached you're likely looking at either an electrical issue or a duff solenoid. But eliminate the obvious before you tear into the wiring/turbo.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th May 2023 2:10 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
If you go in through the wheel arch and remove all the heat shields an well as all the pipework to the turbo I think you can get to the solenoid connector/plug. Memory is dismal these days if I haven't done something for a while.
Fiddly and time consuming but doable. Check the rod is attached first though!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th May 2023 4:04 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Going it through the wheel arch you can just about see the rod, and maybe also see if it's detached if you have good eye sight!
I think the plug is from above only though. Nightmare that plug for access.
On ignition ON and off, the rod should move in and out (unless it has really old software). So that may help prove the motor works.
Also with ignition On, and you trying to move the rod, it should fight you, and pull it back to position. So that also proves the motor and sensor feedback works.
EDIT: Just seen your video I would expect the rod to be moving in and out much more than that.
Oops. Shouldn't have butted in on this thread
15th May 2023 4:54 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
As I remember it is from above Pete with the EGR and cooler out of the way, but I seem to recall it might be accessed through the wheel arch if absolutely every pipe has been removed.
Memory is not great these days and sometimes it feels like I'm doing something for the first time when I have done it before dozens of times.
Old age I suppose yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th May 2023 6:05 pm
GLEOIRL
Member Since: 29 Aug 2022
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
RESOLvED ...thanks all for the assistance
So finally ...my issue has been resolved, albeit I now have the cone of shame to wear now for quite a while.
Between help in particular from @PROFSRG and @Pat in gap tools, my issue was completely of my own making in the end.
Using Pats iIdtool electrical diagram I traced the electrical issue back to a bent pin on the ECU unit, which was bent and touching another pin.
Once carefully straighted out on the bench, and then re-installed it immediately cleared both the EGR and Turbo actuator faults.
The background to the issue being that I had another EGR issue on the driver's side, so I had done some work on them both with EGR cleaner, and whilst in there r
I had also removed the terrain module, as I could see the pins were green when inspected, so whilst replacing the terrain module I had also spayed the ECU.pins too, but just lifted the caps and sprayed in some WD40 and closed them again, but in doing so I must have damaged the middle set of pins whilst re seating the wiring module.
Anyway delighted to have it resolved now and along the way I ended up refreshing the turbo intake pipes too, which was a long fingered job which was brought forward when this issue occured.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
16th May 2023 5:43 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Well that's a result and well done for finding it. With that bent pin there had to have been other fault codes logged in other modules (TCM, Transmission, etc) which had you noticed/mentioned we might have resolved the issue sooner!
It's a very good practice to retrace your steps when there is a sudden fault, especially during or just after working on it. Often it can be something simple that went wrong or was missed as was the case here.
It has happened to all of us, so no need for pointy hats
Pat provides a fantastic and unique aftermarket support as many on here will attest.
Thanks too for posting back the outcome as so many never do.
Now thrash her down the motorway to within an inch of her life yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
16th May 2023 7:09 pm
GLEOIRL
Member Since: 29 Aug 2022
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Thanks ProfsrG
I had spent quite some time with a borrowed inspection lamp yesterday evening from above the actuator and couldn't see much more than I could with my own eyes through the wheel arch area as the shield covering the actuator lever made it difficult to even manouvere the lamp within the tight space and wasn't bright enough really either.
I ended up going through my back lane CCTV from Saturday three weeks ago to remind myself exactly what I had done that day as it was lashing rain and I was in and out doing bits, and could see myself taking g out the Terrain module and then recalled that I had Also sprayed WD40 down into the ECU as well once I found the corrosion on the terrain module.
I could also see from screenshots from the IIDTool the day before that the turbo actuator faults did t exist, but did exist by Saturday afternoon.
Lesson learned ....hopefully
I need to start a new thread now ... ...for my autobox as it's not always shifting when in D, but drives fine via manual command. Changed the gearbox filyer screen and oil , made no difference,, cleaned the green pins on the terrain unit, still no difference, and oiled and freed up the gearbox shift linkage underneath and again o difference.
Not sure if it's related to the autobox issue, but I can't select any special terrain programsmes either on the console dial, it has never worked si ce I got the Disco last year.
No faults shown either to the IIDtool related to the transmission.
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I would expect the rod to be moving in and out much more than that.
...for my autobox as it's not always shifting when in D, but drives fine via manual command. Changed the gearbox filyer screen and oil , made no difference,, cleaned the green pins on the terrain unit, still no difference, and oiled and freed up the gearbox shift linkage underneath and again o difference.
