Had a spicy ride home on our narrow, twisty, steep highlands roads yesterday.
Brake pedal would push all the way to the floor where it would 'suddenly' engage the brakes with no modulation. About a mile from the house brake warning light comes on, goes off, comes on, goes off, stays on.
Leaving it overnight I'm greeted with a nice pool of brake fluid under the (RHD) passenger side.
Here's the cuprit:
Couldn't find any prior threads addressing this manky pepparami pipe, so am I right in thinking it is this front-to-back pipe here:
Looks like another 'body off piece of p*ss' that'll be a total nightmare trying to do under the vehcile on jacks.
Anyone dealt with this before? Shouldn't corrode this badly surely? I've had the infamous rear pipes done before, always soap and pressure wash the undercarriage after winter but this must have had salt clogged up on it for a while to get this bad.
---
24th Apr 2023 11:15 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10534
Maybe an outstanding recall.
Go onto the mot website and put in your reg and see.
Book it into LR for free think it has something to do with wheel size
24th Apr 2023 1:22 pm
BlackShama
Member Since: 19 Sep 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 19
Nothing coming up on MOT checker and couldn't find anything that immediately matches the issue on the posts that cover recalls. I'll dig a bit deeper.
Wheels are 19" but diameter on the 255/55/19s is 30" - same as the stock 255/60/18s - so shouldn't be causing a problem?
It's a massive leak about 20cm all the way along that exposed section of pipe, like a waterfall (600ml dumped overnight)!
Edit: Found the bulleting on the rear pipes, nothing for NSF pipe but appears to be a similar issue - section of exposed pipe getting gunked up with winter salt and corroding through since it's only the exposed area by the heatshield that is leaking. Rear pipes were done about 4-5 years back.
Looks like it needs exhaust and shields dropping to access and replace - just debating cutting the section out or doing the whole pipe...
24th Apr 2023 2:04 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10534
Arg. Yes,
Yours is a different fault to the recall
24th Apr 2023 2:42 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5098
BlackShama wrote:
Looks like it needs exhaust and shields dropping to access and replace - just debating cutting the section out or doing the whole pipe...
If the rear's already been done, I'd cut further forward and make a piece that goes to where the new rear pipe was joined.
How old is your Disco?Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
24th Apr 2023 6:05 pm
BlackShama
Member Since: 19 Sep 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 19
2008. Most of the brake lines (plus callipers) were replaced at the same time due to corrosion in 2018, I am not entirely sure if this leaking section has actually already been replaced as part of that work or if it’s still original.
Garages are fully booked out a month in advance here so weighing my options. If I can get the heat shields off I might be able to access the line without dropping the cat. Depends how bad the rot has spread.
24th Apr 2023 7:53 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5098
Whereabouts are you?Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
24th Apr 2023 9:07 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2319
Wow, that corrosion looks bad ….far worse than I encountered when I ‘popped’ a rear pipe when braking very hard. As highlands mentioned, find out how much further forward the corrosion has spread, if it isn’t very far, then either make yourself, or get sections of copper/ nickel ( doesn’t corrode and is relatively easy to bend) pipe made up to join where they were replaced at the rear. Bending and pipe flaring skills will be needed. I say ‘they’ because there are 2 pipes running together there, and I expect they are both shot tbh.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
24th Apr 2023 10:07 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20786
Not a fun job to replace them
To do them properly, you need to raise the front end on the body for access. You can feed them through the hole available, but you won't be able to shape them properly not clip them into the pipe clips...My D3 Build Thread
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
think it has something to do with wheel size
) 
….far worse than I encountered when I ‘popped’ a rear pipe when braking very hard. As highlands mentioned, find out how much further forward the corrosion has spread, if it isn’t very far, then either make yourself, or get sections of copper/ nickel ( doesn’t corrode and is relatively easy to bend) pipe made up to join where they were replaced at the rear. Bending and pipe flaring skills will be needed. I say ‘they’ because there are 2 pipes running together there, and I expect they are both shot tbh.
