Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
2005 LR3 key programming failure, now immobilized?
We have a 2005 LR3 which for the past few years had its only keyfob not be able to lock and unlock the car. Until now, we have just been using the physical key lock on the driver's side door to unlock the car, so we got 2 new keys (with working batteries) that were cut by the dealership to program as a replacement for the original fob. I purchased a Foxwell NT510 preloaded with landrover software to program the keys as it would be cheaper than having someone (or the dealership) do it, as well as an excuse to buy a scanner that could understand landrover-proprietary codes. When I initially tried programming both keys, I was able to get 1 of the 2 to work in that it was able to start the car just fine. I left it running for 6 minutes as said by the scan tool so that the key could sync with the car and after the 6 minutes the buttons still didn't work. Ignoring this, I moved on to the 2nd newly programmed key but this is where the issues started with the 2nd key in the ignition I could turn the car to II but when I tried turning it to III to start the car, nothing would happen. At this point, the immobilizer started blinking so I put in the 1st newly programmed key and started the car just fine, to make sure nothing was broken. Seeing that the 2nd key didn't work, I tried to program both keys again through the scanner but now after doing that (and redoing it several times, just to make sure I hadn't accidentally done something wrong) neither of the newly (re-)programmed keys, OR the original key, are working. I can put the car into II but when I try to crank it over nothing happens and the car is silent. In the scanner, I can see that the PCM is throwing P0513, "incorrect immobilizer key", confirming my suspicions that the immobilizer has been activated. At this point, all 3 keys don't work ( )and I'm not sure what to do. Can someone recommend me next steps to take, or am I royally boned?
4th Dec 2022 5:31 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10509
Well I guess the original fault wasn’t the key.
You can get kits on eBay containing paired parts consisting of at least:
Ecu
Instruments
Fusebox cjb
Key
Ensure it’s for petrol model
Fit all and hopefully car will start. Could be back to one key
Or Ask dealer if they can sort it with no working keys
4th Dec 2022 5:43 am
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 113
Mind the remote frequency, different between UK (433 MHZ) and US (315 MHZ).
What is the frequency of the new keys you bought ?
4th Dec 2022 10:41 am
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
> What is the frequency of the new keys you bought ?
All 3 keys are 315 mhz, fcc id NT8-15K6014CFFTXA, as represented by the info hidden behind the blade.
4th Dec 2022 7:48 pm
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
Late last night I was able to get one of the new keys working, so let's call this new key #1. I was able to get new key #1 working by clearing the PCM's P0513-00 and U0426-00. After that, I was able to get it working and mobilize the car reliably. However, new key #2 and the original key are both immobilizing the car and generating the two codes. I attached the two scan reports from my scanner which I think could be relevant. Could any of these be related to the keys not working? It is worth mentioning that the new key #1 is still unable to remotely lock and unlock the car. Maybe the car isn't charging the key?
Click image to enlarge
4th Dec 2022 8:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10509
well that is a big relief!
to get the lock unlock working search for green wire splice. There are ~3 wires joined along the sill of the car. This joint needs remaking or resoldering. (on a RHD car its on the left side, dunno on LHD) I guess left still
It doesn't sound like one of you new keys is duff, so I would put that out of your reach! and try and get the old one working again before making things worse and quit while ahead!
4th Dec 2022 8:35 pm
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
Is there somewhere I can find instructions on how to get at the wire bundle? Not sure where to start.
4th Dec 2022 10:31 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10509
You pull the black plastic off on the lower part of the B pillar.
Then just pull the sill cover up starting at the front
5th Dec 2022 12:35 am
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
I'm currently sitting here in my rover, totally unsure of how to proceed. I can pry away at the top layer of plastic that goes from the front passenger to the rear passenger, and i can the wire bundle, but i can't access it due to the second layer of plastic. I can't find any information on how to take it off, can someone help?
5th Dec 2022 12:39 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10509
Arh yes. I can’t remember that bit.
But just keep pulling the plastic off
5th Dec 2022 12:52 am
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
Embarrassing how long it took me to realize i can just put the seat forward all the way to be able to remove the lower trim
5th Dec 2022 1:00 am
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
I can see that this is supposed to be slid towards the front of the car, but no matter how much leverage i can get i can't seem to get this thing to budge. What do you advise?
5th Dec 2022 1:06 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10509
Use a screw driver near them white things to lever them up a bit.
Should slide easier then
5th Dec 2022 5:44 am
blucobalt
Member Since: 04 Dec 2022
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 8
I was unable to fully remove the cover but from what I was able to see I found 2 small green/with white stripe wires that were crimped together and tied off with blue tape - totally disintegrated when I tried pulling at it. I stripped those back and twisted them together but still no dice on the remote un/locking. Because it was getting dark I just put everything back together and the car is whole again. Not sure what to do now but for FWIW, after twisting the wires together I was able to get a solid 12.10v on it.
6th Dec 2022 5:57 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10509
well if you want to risk it, you have have another go at programming the 2 known good keys.
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)and I'm not sure what to do. Can someone recommend me next steps to take, or am I royally boned?
