Mark 1983
Member Since: 29 Jul 2021
Location: Maidstone Kent
Posts: 11
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| Hello all hope you can help and probably already been asked |
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Eve all I have the tdv6 I fitted a new inter cooler as it was split reason for checking was I had turbo lag when I looked turned out cooler was shot change it all over took her for a test drive and still have a lot of lag on the boost after going back under the bonnet I have noticed that the hard pipe that goes from the air filter after the maf if really loose as it drops down the other side of the radiator
I would of expected a tight fit and or o ring seal I am also getting code p0046 boost control solenoid circuit range/ performance
I don’t recall seeing and split pipe but will have a look tomorrow and do a actuator check but any Impute is greatly appreciate
Manny thanks
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 26th Dec 2021 10:49 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2326
  
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That hard plastic duct should be a fairly secure fit to the next section, with a sort of foam seal ( definately not an ‘o’ ring), and of course the 2 screws up top to hold it there, from memory. Also the next section should be secured to the fan plastic housing with a small nut and bolt. This of course could be missing if someone has played with it before you. Worth checking though, as it should not be loose at all. PS, it might help if you tell us what model and year D3 or D4 tdv6 you have. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 26th Dec 2021 10:58 pm |
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Mark 1983
Member Since: 29 Jul 2021
Location: Maidstone Kent
Posts: 11
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Ah thank you why did I not think of that thank you I have close cell fome that will be perfect for this job and yes amazingly most of the nuts and bolts seem to be there and from what I can work out the car spent it’s life on the motorway
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| 26th Dec 2021 11:09 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10578
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There should be a rubber seal.
I apply wd40, support the bottom the best I can and push the top down
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| 27th Dec 2021 5:41 am |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2326
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Yes, Mark, it would be advisable to buy the correct seal. I remember putting silicone grease on it now, because it needs to be a good seal there, not a home made lash up.  D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 27th Dec 2021 10:22 am |
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Mark 1983
Member Since: 29 Jul 2021
Location: Maidstone Kent
Posts: 11
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Thank you every one I have a o ring seal Kit so the ring washer can be made I did notice there was recessed mark on the pipe that goes to the turbo I will let you all know how I get on later and will also try to do a maf test
But ov that can only be done once the intake is sealed correctly
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| 27th Dec 2021 10:53 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10578
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If you go on
Www.advancedfactors.co.uk
(Forum Discount )
You can get diagrams to see the seal
And maybe order one if needed
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| 27th Dec 2021 12:40 pm |
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Mark 1983
Member Since: 29 Jul 2021
Location: Maidstone Kent
Posts: 11
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Update for you all she seems fixed done a test all good
So problem was this the main intake going from the air box to the turbo had no seal on it so air was getting into the system in between maf and the turbo so the maf was not reading correctly
This in turn made the car feel like it was on limp mode until 2300 rpm
So as a temporary until I can get the correct seals I have used dense close sell self bond fome
Thanks you for all your help
Mark
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| 27th Dec 2021 1:15 pm |
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