Member Since: 02 Mar 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 69
Tailgate troubles
I see that the issue of the upper tailgate refusing to open is something that has been covered many times on the forum, but I'm struggling to find if I'm on the right track with diagnosing the cause, so perhaps someone would point me in the right direction.
Problem started a couple of weeks back, when after starting the D3 I'd hear the tailgate pop open. It wasn't fully open, but on the latch, and so to open it fully I had to activate the switch in the handle at the back. I'd then slam it shut again, but within a few seconds it would pop open if the ignition was on. After a few days of this, it then wouldn't open at all.
I've tried pressing the lock/unlock buttons and when I do this I hear the clunk of it opening at the back, and it is open on the latch, but I'm now not hearing any sound from the handle switch, so I cannot open the tailgate fully.
From what research I've done, it seems to me that the switch in the handle is the problem part that needs replacing. It doesn't look too difficult to remove it and wire a new one in, but before I do that, am I on the right track?
5th Jan 2021 4:24 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
I would say you are on the right track, I had this happen to me when the corroded contacts froze in cold weather then started to do it regularly, I was lucky in that I was able to prise off the rubber cover and clean up the insides and WD40 the gubbings, problem went away for me and my niece still has the car 5 years later so give it a look
5th Jan 2021 4:42 pm
Disco3_DC
Member Since: 02 Mar 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 69
Thanks Biffysun. I'm going to try removing the rubber part of the handle and cleaning behind to see if that helps.
5th Jan 2021 5:16 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4409
It's fairly easy to remove the whole handle assembly, separating the two plastic mouldings is a bit of a trick!
IIRC there is a couple of small screws (under the numberplate lamps?) and a load of clips. It's one of those jobs where you could do with 6 hands!Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
5th Jan 2021 5:20 pm
Disco3_DC
Member Since: 02 Mar 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 69
Thanks Richard. My understanding was that the rubber part can be removed and then the switch housing popped out, so that it hangs on the wires to it. Is that the case? My aim would be to first clean behind the rubber grip to see if that will then allow the switch to operate. Then, if that doesn't work, wire a new switch in.
Best wishes,
Darren
P.S. I see from your signature that you have Triumph 2.5 PI. I've got a TR5 ... It's a lot easier to work on than the Landy!
5th Jan 2021 5:59 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
There wont be much left behind the rubber part to clean as it turns to dust - just order the switch from a Ford and change it, the part is the same as a Ford Focus/Galaxy switch whilst you have it apart make sure you put it back the right way round as its easy to put back 180 degrees out!Must stop buying shiny toys....
5th Jan 2021 6:50 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4409
Hi Darren, yes I've had my Pi for 33 years! My dad had a Pi in the 70s, and I guess I was just trying to recreate that feeling! Mine is still running the Lucas system, Inc the pump. Your TR5?
It hasn't been out for a couple of years, too many other jobs to do at the moment!Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
5th Jan 2021 8:33 pm
Disco3_DC
Member Since: 02 Mar 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 69
On the 5 Richard, I have a Bosch style electric pump. This seems to be quite a common upgrade, but the rest is standard. It all works pretty well, although I know that some people do not like PI. I changed all my injectors recently and that improved the running a lot. And this spring I'll be replacing the fuel hoses and the metering unit, in the hope that we'll be able to get out and enjoy the car again.
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