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danrjm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2018
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 73
  
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| Troubleshooting error codes |
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I've got a few error codes on my 57 Disco 3 which I can't seem to resolve...
Parking Sensors:
B1B57-11 Front Sensors Power Circuit (permanent)
B1B58-11 Rear Sensors Power Circuit (permanent)
I spent a couple of hours narrowing this down to the rear sensors, had the bumper off, replaced them all and, within a day or two, the error was back but intermittent - Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Possibly a problem in the wiring loom?
Compressor:
C1A20-64 Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir (permanent)
I've replaced the desiccant, filters and o-rings with new but it's still comes up. It can raise the back quite quickly but raises the front slowly before cutting out (mine always lifts the back before front, is that normal?). Left the car off for a couple of days but nothing dropped, so now I'm just thinking that there's enough pressure in the tank to lift the back but not the front because the compressor isn't running hard enough. I did see a troubleshooting post somewhere about running a set of diagnostics, taking fuses out, etc, to try and narrow it down but can't find it again. Can anyone find it? My guess is that it's the compressor though?
EGR:
P0489-00 Exhaust gas recirculation control - circuit low (intermittent)
This sometimes comes up with another code specifically for the B circuit, but it's marked as 'temporary'. (Not sure what the difference between 'temporary' and 'intermittent' is?)
I'm guessing that the EGR valves are on their way out and, again, I did see a troubleshooting post somewhere about running some simple voltage/electrical test, maybe disconnecting some pipes, before dismantling the whole car. I've also read a lot about blanking the EGRs although, as mine is an '08 model, it'll need a software patch. Also, it's not really clear to me whether or not it would pass it's MOT with it removed as some posts I've read are people putting the EGRs back in! It also looks like a fairly big job - Taking out the battery box, electronics and discharging the aircon was in one post which I'm not sure I could do! If I do blank, does anyone know of someone near Cardiff with a software patch would could help?
Thanks!
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 2nd Jan 2021 2:20 pm |
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Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
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I guess when you changed you opted for a relatively cheap set of sensor as i did, it seems that one sensor i now have is from a dodgy new sensor and this also works little random.
Your suspension alarm is probably frem a leakimg reservoir tank.
The system is calculating when to open and introduce the reservoir and if this opens and there are low pressure here there will be slow lifting and alarm slow filling.
Compressor can of course also be weak but reservoar is a normal fault especialy on older cars.
Cirquit low on egr is also normal and i guess this is because exhaust gases passes in to egr motor windings and cause contamination an low resistance.
You could replace it but normaly this code dosent give limp mode or engine light so its not considered to serious by the ecu to set a serious faiult code.
I have this code on mine and cant see it gives any problem.
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| 2nd Jan 2021 2:41 pm |
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danrjm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2018
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 73
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For parking sensors, i did get them off ebay - I'll have to take the rear bumper off again at some point!
The air tank is a little rusty, is there a way of checking this is the fault? I guess it has no sensors on it...?
With the EGR error, the car is a little rough starting in the cold and has does lack a little power at low revs - But I do keep forgetting to wait for the coil light to go out! This is the only error I have on the powertrain, so I think something is on its way out.
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| 2nd Jan 2021 2:57 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10546
 
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Do you have a gap iid
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| 2nd Jan 2021 3:13 pm |
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Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
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The parking sensors is possible to hear if clicking and if there is a diferent clicking sound from one of them its probably the faulty one.
D3 and D4 dosent use the same sensor so its important to order the correct ones.
On the tank you can spray soapy water at least on the underside but the top part are difficult to acess.
There is no sensor on tank but there is a system pressure sensor and if you watched this live you would see a sudden drop when opening fom reservoir.
The glow plugs are service parts and last a few years then its over.
On the D3 they are horribly prone to brake when trying to change so be awere.
Testing can be made easily by disconnecting the wiring loom plug and measure with a multimeter between ground and the pin in the plug no reactions in resistance means faulty glow plug.
Your egr could be stuck and dosent close properly that could give problems and even a bad injector can give problem especially at start up in the cold.
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| 2nd Jan 2021 3:49 pm |
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danrjm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2018
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 73
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I have an Autel IID - it seems to be able to do most things but I've not really used it to run any diagnostics on the compressor. Could be worth a go tomorrow.
At the moment, I've taken the compressor fuse out to stop the car self-leveling - I just want to double check overnight that no corner drops before going back to the compressor/tank. The tank looks fairly easy to replace though, so maybe that'll be next on the list anyway.
I can't hear clicks from any parking sensor, front or back, but that's probably because it's got a fault and the car has switched them all off! I get the long beep with a flashing parking sensor light. Last time, I took the rear bumper off and went through each sensor one-by-one. Each time I plugged one in, I checked on the IID that it worked and it was fine. It was just one sensor last time but replaced them all. I think I'll have to do the same again.
My car has brand new fuel rails, so not sure its anything on the injectors/fuel side. I've just started the car now and, annoyingly, no error and starts fine. How would I be able to tell if its a glow plug or ERG? The EGR must have a fuse I can pull on a rough start/idle to see if it's that... Not sure if the EGR valves will open or close with the fuse out though? I'm sure I read something about doing this somewhere as a quick test, just can't find it again.
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| 2nd Jan 2021 4:05 pm |
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Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
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The bolts for the tank are normaly horribly rusted so not so easy as it looks.
Yes sensor cpu switch of when it sees a faulty sensor but one or more are faulty, there should also be an intermittent fault code thrown on one of the sensors, try reset the codes when in reverse.
Egr has no fuse and is controlled by the pcm module, to see if it gives any of your problem its normaly blocked in the pipe up to inlet manifold with a 2 pence but we dont have 2 pence in Norway so not sure how this works but see many does this on the forum.
The easiest way to put it is in the joint after the flexible bit aprox 5 cm before it goes in to inlet manifold.
Testing of glow plugs, there are a loom with a contact to each bank of 3 cylinders just before it enters in to the head connection
Disconnect plug and you will see 3 pins inside on each contakt.
Use miltimeter and measure between ground and each pin using resistance measure, if it goes to almost zero its ok but open cirquit will be a faulty glow plug.
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| 2nd Jan 2021 5:26 pm |
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Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
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danrjm wrote:
Parking Sensors:
B1B57-11 Front Sensors Power Circuit (permanent)
B1B58-11 Rear Sensors Power Circuit (permanent)
EGR:
P0489-00 Exhaust gas recirculation control - circuit low (intermittent)
I had exactly the same errors.
For parking sensors: you have at least one dodgy sensor anywhere. (either front and/or rear) only way to find which is to swap each one or all of them. (Mine was front center right). If intermittent fault, turn on the live stream data and, while still working, monitor which sensor gives a wrong distance before the fault.
For EGR: one of yours might stuck open during the start check, or turn off, check (mine is bank 0 open - right side)
The vehicle cycles the egrs from 0% to 95% when you turn the ignition on and again when you turn off.
I hope it helps.
Cheers
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| 3rd Jan 2021 3:01 am |
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danrjm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2018
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 73
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Ok, so for the ERG, the iid says that bank 0 is at around 95% and bank 1 is 5% when starting. I guess that it's bank 1 which is faulty then. So is bank 1 on the passenger side for a UK car?
The car had a lot of trouble starting today, although did get there in the end, and I got another error about 20 mins into driving saying that the fuel injection pressure was too low. Could that also be related to the EGR? Just wondering if the valve sends some kind of signal to the fuel injectors via the CPU to control how much fuel to burn? Otherwise, maybe a completely separate issue?
Also, for blanking, could I just buy a blanking kit, install and unplug the EGRs (or keep them plugged in) and keep the car running? I was thinking of blanking at the top of the pipes and taking out the butterfly valve so the car just has fresh air and, although it may throw up alsorts of errors, would the car still run and drive ok? Just thinking that it could be a cheap solution for now until either I can buy new valves or I can find someone to patch the software... The MOT is in October, so have some time to sort it all out properly!
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| 3rd Jan 2021 4:20 pm |
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Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
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95% means OPEN . That is your faulty one. Bank 0 is in the right side (drive side in the UK) (starboard  )
If one valve is stuck open you might notice some lack of power at low rev and then a kick of power above 2000 rpm.
If your D3 is EUR4 you can use a blanking kit but the IML will pop after 3/4 ignitions. You need a patch for that. Loads of info about that here in the forum. Have a search. But i am afraid it might fail MOT for what i've heard.
If you need to use the vehicle meanwhile, you can resort to the emergency coin blanking. (Also plenty of info the forum).
Fuel rail fault can be due to slightly low battery, since you had trouble firing the vehicle. You might have tried to put the foot down to compensate the lack kf power and the car got crazy with that (get light with the foot and be patient until you egr is solved) Clear the error and see if comes up again. Not sure if this is common but that also happened with me many many moons ago.
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| 3rd Jan 2021 4:53 pm |
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danrjm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2018
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 73
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Yep - Got them the wrong way round - So the driver's side one is faulty then.
My car is EUR4 as it's an 08, I think EUR5 is 09 and later. My car did fail on emissions at the last MOT but the garage just put a load of additive in the tank and it was fine. I'm thinking that if I blank the EGRs it'll probably fail emissions again. What I really want to do it take it all apart, clean it all out and put new EGRs in, just don't have the time or money at the moment to do it.
I'll look up the emergency coin blanking method just to get it through winter maybe!
The battery is less than a year old and was reading 15.8V with engine on. Don't think it's that. Had the same error last year but it went away after the fuel rails were changed. Maybe it's nothing...?
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| 3rd Jan 2021 5:09 pm |
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