couldn't hear it on the video but my money would be on nearside lower arm..
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
4th Dec 2020 10:57 am
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi thanks for the reply. Arm as in the rod from the roll bar? Is there anything I can do to specify where it’s coming from please? I’m no mechanic but if I know what the problem is and can get a video on YouTube I’ll have it fixed!
Thanks for the quick reply
4th Dec 2020 11:07 am
11891952
Member Since: 11 Jul 2020
Location: Pulborough
Posts: 83
+1 what Hardware says, front nearside lower arm if I had to bet. The bushes go and then knock.
Drive down a road around 5 to 10 mph and dab the brake pedal on and off, if it knocks its your lower arm bushes.
As posted above AF will sort you out. Do not change one, do them both as you will require a 4 wheel alignment after .
these front lower arms can be a to get off ... reciprocating saw can be handy.
I'd suggest doing the arms rather than trying to just replace the bushes. Fairly sure we ended up destroying one of my arms getting it off..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
4th Dec 2020 5:55 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10551
You probably want a garage to sort it.
And LR independent
Get it done before mot or expect to have it done
4th Dec 2020 6:06 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Thanks for the replies
Yes that’s it the knocking with tapping the brakes. Certain it’s front left.
I’m skint and replacing the arms looks costly..
Am I right it’s a pair of the £12 bushes I’m after?
I can always try. If I destroy it I’ll take the loss if the cost margin is hundreds. Reliant on the lr3 community for knowledge too!
I’ve heard of this before. I do have a reciprocating saw. I’ll look now how the bushes are replaced actually and decide if it’s mmmmm able to
4th Dec 2020 6:07 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
MOT is due this month actually! 😱
4th Dec 2020 6:32 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10551
If you jack the car up and use a crow bar or massive screwdriver you can pry between the chassis and arm near the bush. If you see one moving a lot more or flapping about then it’s a sign of a problem.
The rear bolt on the arm is a real problem on these
Take the gearbox undertray off.
With paint mark the alignment of the bolt head, washer and chassis so they can be refitted that way to get wheel alignment approximate
Do front bolt too
Then see if you can undo the bolt.
I had to put a spanner 24mm? on the bolt and then use a jack to force the spanner up. Did that 5 times
Some cars have this rusted in and the arm has to be cut off.
You will need a socket to undo the socket in the wheel center too and various heavy duty tools
You could take a punt on ordering a bush
I’ll try and post to links to a bush and arm tomorrow for what I purchased
The bush can be cut out, and a threaded bar used to force it in.
It’s not a fun job
Last edited by Pete K on 6th Dec 2020 4:18 pm. Edited 1 time in total
If you jack the car up and use a crow bar or massive screwdriver you can pry between the chassis and arm near the bush. If you see one moving a lot more or flapping about then it’s a sign of a problem.
remember the bushes are "hydrolastic" and move a good deal more than you might expect ... the MoT stations round here had a visit from "MoT central" 2 years back as too many of them were failing too many D3/4 bushes on "excessive play". The rule now is that they only fail if they don't go back to original position when you stop using the pry-bar on them.
But Pete K makes a good point ... if the sides differ then you know you have an issue.
4th Dec 2020 7:43 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I am not suggesting at all that you should maybe/possibly look on youtube and search for polyurethane bush repair
Apparently quite common mod to stiffen up track car suspension.
4th Dec 2020 7:44 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4917
Just be aware replacing the bushes is not for the faint hearted as they are stubborn to both extract and install. This is why most just replace the complete arm which comes with a new ball joint. Even if you have a fully equipped workshop it can be challenging to replace the bushes, so doing it on you driveway can take that to a whole different level!
If you do go the new bush route you will need a substantial bush removal tool, or access to a 20/30t press and suitable dies. You could try pressing out the inner bush and then very carefully cut the outer shell so that it may then be collapsed inward with a hammer and chisel. Even so, beware there are pitfalls when installing the new bushes as they must be installed in the correct orientation, and 100% true! If the bush is not installed perfectly straight and to the correct depth, it will deform making geometry calibration difficult. Then there is the usual issues surrounding the bolts, but you would have this anyway if replacing the arm.
I'm not trying to put you off, but just so you are aware of what lies ahead!
Good luck with it yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
to get off ... reciprocating saw can be handy.
