Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Many Codes most communication
Got a list today.
Things started with a random Suspension fault Yellow Rockin Rover, then on restart coming home that went away to be replaced by the Engine fault and 2 minutes later or so a brake fault which really got my attention.
Here's my list. Could this be indicative of a clock spring? My cruise has been on/off for a while. Got a new switch but then it started working on the regular so it didn;t find its way onto the vehicle yet.
P0579-00 (28) Speed control multi-function input A - circuit range/performance
Parking Brake
U0155-87 (A8) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 08-09-2020 13:33:04 at 115327 mi )
Suspension
C1A13-64 (28) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 06-09-2020 13:28:46 at 115252 mi )
Transmission
U0155-87 (6D) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 04-09-2020 15:28:27 at 115236 mi )
Vehicle Dynamic
C1A00-88 (08) Control module - Bus signal/message failure - bus is off
( on 08-09-2020 13:41:32 at 115333 mi )
All cleared with IID tool and didn't come back on restart. I did note a low reading on the IID tool when first on. 11.9 vice 13.?
No reply needed about the rich 01-02 bank
Is it advisable to get at all of the modules and clean contacts regularly?2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
8th Sep 2020 11:09 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
First thoughts are battery or alternator problems, maybe the connections on battery or the earth connections.
9th Sep 2020 4:19 am
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Cleaning up grounds
OK
Thx Globetrotter.
I did take a look at the battery, and did a "Live Value" on the battery and charging with the IID tool. Most of the codes have gone away after a couple restarts, but currently had some suspension compressor issues dealing with the exhaust. I thought I had a kit, but that's another story.
So I now have a new compressor, since I screwed mine up rebuilding I guess. I am now getting intermittent fault codes which I will log on the Weekend. I had to leave the truck behind and use the SWMBO's Jeep. Rough ride compared to the rover I will tell you.
OK, so cleaned the battery posts, was not in bad shape at all, and the charging was not an issue, however now I am thinking that due to a leak thru the roof rail end cap some of the grounds in the passenger side floor have been effected. On the weekend after addressing the suspension issue I plan on removing the door scuff plates and get everything cleaned up in there as far as grounds and wiring. Upon inspection after getting leak fixed, I saw no wire corrosion, but I didn't clean up the grounds.
Other than disconnecting the battery while loosening the ground nuts is there any thing else I should do before/while cleaning the grounds and putting on some Di - Electric grease for protection.
I am getting some other suspension fault codes and the DSC fault code along with the Parking Brake CEL. Should have logged the codes but I was in a drastic hurry on the compressor, since I had to get back to out of town work. A host of Body Control and Instrument faults came up, which I never have had an issue with until now.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
23rd Sep 2020 7:02 pm
F355GTS
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: North Hampshire
Posts: 849
The suspension errors are the same I had, cured by replacing the desiccant in the compressor's air dryer.
Another fault that can cause it is if the exhaust pipe from the compressor is blocked/ kinkedMark
23rd Sep 2020 7:59 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Actually rebuild exhaust valve
Also, another issue is the exhaust valve itself, inside the compressor under the 4 screw black plate. Thought I had the kit but turns out I did not, and had already removed the seal. Couldn't get kit in time so I ordered a compressor instead.
If you take the little seal off the valve you can't put it back on. Its a one time deal. I took the seal off thinking it was an o-ring to clean off hard corrosion at the end of the valve, then looked for the kit. No kit found oh crap.
Also I ordered this compressor from 1AAuto parts I will post the part. It has cheap double o-ring compression fittings vice the Voss fittings, and when I was calibrating the suspension the supply line blew off the pump. As it was 9pm I didn't have time nor energy to pull it off and replace the top of the dryer with the steel one I purchased from Lucky8 off road, so I had to drive my wife's car for 5 hours. Crap ride back sore. Return trip home to fix it right this weekend. Another 5 hours in a Cheap Cherokee, not looking forward to that. Hopefully I return home to an "upstanding" Rover, as in shocks and valves held the air that was in them before the line blew.
I was suspect of the fittings when I tightened them down. But it was already dark and late so I hoped it was just my worry. Should have just swapped the plate out right out of the box.
Good News is now I have ordered the exhaust valve kit and might have a good rebuilt backup for the next 100K miles.
I rebuilt the compressor, had that kit, while waiting on the compressor delivery.
Here's the part:
2005 Land Rover LR3 with Hitachi Style Compressor Air Ride Suspension Compressor
Part Number: 1AASC00019
Now evidence on longevity, yet but the fittings for air supply line are crap.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
24th Sep 2020 6:30 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Hi @Ruper
Sounds like u had a lot of fun , not
Don’t know if this is any use to u but I replaced my Voss connectors with brass pushfits , made life so much easier , considerably cheaper as well
Just have to ensure the end of the pipes haven’t got any scoring or rough marks on them, easily cleaned with emery cloth or cut off rough edge and ends need to be cut squarly
This size fits the air valve blocks , etc , apologises can’t remember the size of the dryer cap end fittings , did also get a metal dryer cap that also came with brass pushfits
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Yeap thats me
That is what the same fittings I have on the Steel Plate for the dryer. Thanks for the tip about cleaning up the lines, They were on and off about 7 times out of the voss fittings due to the compressor fail (My Fault on the Exhaust Valve rebuild.
The scars may have led to the bad fit on these O-ring fittings but I think they are just bad fittings for this much pressure out of our little pumps.
I think the short one is OK but the supply to the res, is rough. I will do as you say to clean it up.
Thanks for the tip2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
24th Sep 2020 10:38 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Hiya
Glad it helped , found emery cloth works the best , plus using clear silicone grease helped on the ends , ease of pushing the pipe in and also stopping the O rings getting pushed in
Including the same what u do with UFH/ PEX pipes and there marked scales , marking the pipe on the outside of the fitting so u know when pushing the pipe in its fully pushed home into the fitting
Did find some the plastic fittings terrible with sealing , that’s another reason I went over to the brass , metal fittings , when I had to cut the pipes on the old hitachi I noticed the handbrake cable was near and pushed against one side of the O ring which I think lead to some of the leaks
so took all the pipes off again and I done a loop from the dryer cap to the existing pipes , my thinking was trying to reduce the stress and vibration on the O rings, luckily worked a treat
Alas some of the pipes simply wouldn’t seal because of the rough edges so ended up cutting them back, installing a coupling on the new pipe, also sometimes cutting the ends off first of the new pipe where they had become oval
Of course I hope that doesn’t come across trying to teach u how to suck eggs
Fingers crossed it will be a simple fix
25th Sep 2020 7:00 am
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
WELL...Crap
So I replaced the dryer top with the Luck 8 off road steel one with the fittings that look the same as the previous post picture. Suspension raised up, I drove around the neightborhood and parked her on Friday night. Spent time with SWMBO on Saturday going to rummage sales along with adult daughter in town from Maryland, good time.
Sund morning I planned a stop on the way back to work 5 hour trip to shoot long distance rifles with friend. 10 minutes into the trip the car began to shake violently and was very unstable. Pulled off and saw the vehicle on the bump stops. Not good especially with rods for the lift on sensors. Tried a recalibration and aired the corners up to spec and tried to drive away again to the same result not 500 yds down the highway.
Called for a tow and a couple hours later she sits in the drive way.
Faults I had on roadside were:
4 height sensors out of range, (Rods were issue) solved with calibration
Also had a mechanical failure fault possible bag leak, which I am thinking this is what has happened.
I was so disgusted I didn't want to deal with it anymore and drove away in wife's jeep for 5 hours of no so good ride.
I am assuming the rear right air bag went. The other rear one was replaced recently over a tire center mishap and I had not had the time nor funds to buy the other side and replace it to match. I assume bags have over 115K miles of them so it was on borrowed time.
The other issue though is that it had a rough time holding calibration via IID tool, so also thinking that the ECU (Suspension ECU) could be corrupt?
How often does this happen, I cleaned the grounds after I replaced the compressor dryer top on Friday night, so it should have had good grounds. To do so I disconnected battery and allowed the car to go to sleep for 2 hour prior to that.
I've popped for 3 new struts, 2 front 1 rear, since the left rear was new. I was pondering the coli over as the cost was almost the same but then I remembered I like the air ride and that's one reason I got the thing. If they get to my home its a weekend of work or so, hopefully my best mate will come hand me beers until I am done with all 3 shocks. Should be a solid day of work.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
28th Sep 2020 6:30 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
I would probably remove the rods and return it to normal and then go from there.
28th Sep 2020 10:00 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Rods
Yes I think I will return to the stock rods at least for now and just program/calibrate to fit the tires which are 31"'s as needed.
Went ahead and got a front and rear air valve just in case needed. IF not will send it back or keep it for the next time.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
30th Sep 2020 5:22 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Sorted
Well I replaced the 3 shocks Saturday and found that the front passenger had a leak. When jacking up that side after total deflate I heard a loud whistle coming from that shock. So it wasn't holding vacuum.
Replaced the 3 without much discomfort, and she drives much better.
Didn't find the stock rods until days after so I am still riding a bit high but will check into that later.
All other faults gone so she is clean riding for now.
Got an extra 1.2 mpg so says the liar on the dash. If I were worried about gas mileage I wouldn't own a nice riding brick.
Thanks all for input once again.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
6th Oct 2020 10:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
That’s brilliant it’s all sorted
May i ask what do u pay for a gallon of petrol now plse , many thks
6th Oct 2020 10:39 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
Gs, remember the US gallon is smaller than a UK gallon
7th Oct 2020 3:03 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
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