Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
Fuel Leak Off Pipe Replacement
Hi,
I seem to have a little puddle of fuel on top of Bank 0 cylinder head next to the injectors.
Possibly the LP fuel leak off pipe?
Does anyone have a procedure for replacing the pipe please?
28th Sep 2020 4:25 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4955
Before you start, just be sure its the leak off pipe and not the actual fuel pump or elsewhere. Blast off the diesel on a cold engine with brake cleaner and or compressed air. Then run it and establish the exact source of the leak. If you suspect its on the high pressure side be careful, as the very high pressurised fuel here can do you very serious harm!!
The leak off pipe itself is a one piece length which meanders it's way from one bank to the other routed around the oil filler neck.
Begin by removing the eng cover and disconnecting the LP fuel lines, injector insulation, injector wiring and harness holders, glow plug fly leads etc. Use brake cleaner or similar to blast away any dirt or crud from around the injectors where the leak off pipe is connected. Now comes the tricky bit, you'll need a narrow long nose pliers, and as I prefer an instrument such as that in the pic below.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Using one or both to remove the locking clip from each of the connections at the injectors. The tricky bit is not losing the clips as they "ping" their way across the workshop floor or into the bowels of the engine! Just make sure you order three or four spare clips because they will try to disappear despite your most determined efforts Pay close attention to the route of the old pipe as you remove it, the new pipe will need to replicate that route exactly.
There is a seal inside each injector where the pipe connects, these must be replaced with new ones and so you will need 6 of these along with the new pipe and clips. They can be fitted to the pipe nipples and smeared with a little clean engine oil will help the nipples insert fully home. Carefully insert each nipple followed by it's locking clip until all six and the new pipe is installed.
Refit everything else in reverse order of removal. Cycle the ign key for 15 or 20 cecs a few times and bleed the schrader valve of air and your done.
I may have missed one or two items, but if I have I'm sure someone will point it out.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Sep 2020 2:48 am
jonathanrichards
Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
That’s incredibly thorough! Thank you very much.
Do you know where I can get the clips and ‘o’ rings from??
The leak off pipe doesn’t seem to come with those from places like RimmerBros?
29th Sep 2020 7:12 am
bembo449
Member Since: 14 Jan 2020
Location: Gainsborough
Posts: 256
I had a lot of issues with leak offs when I got my D3 last year , pipes would blow off randomly even with new clips so i ended up getting a full new leak off pipe set from LR , not any issues since but If I were you , id check the actual metal connector on the injector is tight , it only needs to be a micro mil off for fuel to leak pal
29th Sep 2020 8:45 am
Paddington
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 280
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 469
I've done this job - not too difficult but a bit fiddly. I recall there being a right and wrong side when fitting the new complete pipe assembly with respect to cylinder bank, so consider this.
With regard to the clips they do like to go flying as has been said. I didn't have a problem removing them, it was on refitting that they wanted to go "ping". I (eventually...) addressed this risk by tying a length of cotton around the clip before attempting to fit. Then cut off once in place.
29th Sep 2020 10:50 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
I think there is a trick to these clips. But I can't remember if it works with the standard ones.
You leave the straight part in the hole at the top.
You then get a prodder, and push down on the curved part on the bottom. and then pull the pipe out.
On refitting, don't force the pipe in, push down on the clip again.
29th Sep 2020 12:14 pm
jonathanrichards
Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
Interesting - sounds like a workable solution.
I've ordered the clips, O rings and pipe.
So let's see how my adventure goes!
30th Sep 2020 3:16 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 872
As above, I had a issue with the leak off pipes blowing off too , I brought a brand new Genuine leak off pipe and sensor set up Fitted it all great then fist trip out it blew the pipe off the plastic plug that fits into the injector
I ended up taking the injector to be tested and it failed on the leak off pressure way to high when reved
Just a note to bear in mindMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
30th Sep 2020 10:10 pm
jonathanrichards
Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
Will the compensation values give me a clue as to whether this could be an issue for me?
1st Oct 2020 9:57 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 872
My injectors were working fine it was just 1 was allowing to much pressure feeding the fuel back into the leak off causing it to blow off when at a constant higher revMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
Make a note of which way round the spring clips are fitted before removing them otherwise there is a good chance the plastic "T" piece will blow off when the engine is started.
I purchased a set of Brass "T" pieces when I did mine a couple of years ago from off Ebay.
Also make sure that the short pipe from the loom to the connector just in front of the oil filter is not kinked as this can cause the pipes to blow off.
Finally....TIP
I used a pair of bent locking forceps, the type anglers use to remove fish hooks to fit & remove those dreaded spring clips.It was easy given the limited space.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
2nd Oct 2020 10:01 am
jonathanrichards
Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
Did you see the mention (above in this thread) of just pushing down on the lower (curved) part of the clip to release each tube at each injector?
Do you think that's correct?
2nd Oct 2020 3:40 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 872
Be very careful with the plastic part that is retained with the R clip as with age can be easily broken
Trust me Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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Pay close attention to the route of the old pipe as you remove it, the new pipe will need to replicate that route exactly.
but if I have I'm sure someone will point it out.
