Washing out mud and crud from D3 Radiator and Intercooler
Important Note: this is not for cleaning the internals of an intercooler or radiator, simply for cleaning off accumulated mud and dirt, after wading.
1. Ensure engine is completely cooled before starting this (also ensure the ignition is off so the engine cooling fan does not start)
2. Disconnect the air-duct top section (B) from the air-filter element box (A) by undoing the jubilee clip and then gently pulling apart (I found it easiest to actually take the top off the element box (A) and putting it to one side along with the filter element).
Click image to enlarge
3. Remove the two 8mm Hex Head screws holding the Air-duct onto the top shroud (D)
4.Gently, but firmly pull the top section (A) straight upwards to separate it from the lower section (C)
Click image to enlarge
5.Un-clip the Coolant hose from the top of the shroud
6.Now release the 2 lugs either side off the upper shroud from the receiving holes in the lower shroud (takes a bit of wiggling about)
7.You should now be able to tease the upper shroud out from under the coolant hose by gently lifting it up at the back (near engine) and the pulling backwards towards the engine
Click image to enlarge
8.Now re-fit the airduct (B) but have it facing the position direction – this will stop any water accidently going down into the lower section of the air-duct and then on into the engine.
9. I made a short length of copper pipe with a 90 degree bend and that allow me to direct the flow of water straight at the back of the rad/intercooler.
Click image to enlarge
10. I found it best to wet the whole thing and leave it soak (I also used some of my Mountain bike "Muck Off" Cleaner and let that soak in between rinses). Then work your way down from the top, one section at a time, rinsing until the waters ran clear. Don't be surprised if it all seems to be running cleanly and then after 5 minutes soaking more comes out. I lost count how many times I went over it all, but mine was well clogged and so I spend 3-4hours in total. Maybe OTT, but SWMBO wasn't aware that I'd done it and when she drove the vehicle for the first time afterwards she commented that it seemed more responsive (not surprising when the intercooler was clogged nearly solid before ).
Oh - I forgot the final stage:
11. Re-fit in reverse order
You can also seperate the cover over the two radiators enough to get between (plastic clips hold it's on). I did this on TFC's recommendation and loads of rubbish was flushed out.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
Last edited by MrH on 10th Oct 2015 8:45 pm. Edited 5 times in total
31st Mar 2009 2:09 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73079
Worth sealing off the exposed pipe end from the filter box???
31st Mar 2009 2:12 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1410
Cheers MrH
Looks like this is my next job....
Once done I suppose I should stay out of the mud I see no ships........
31st Mar 2009 3:01 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
As derek says, make sure you seal off the pipe into the engine. I stick a latex work glove over the top to stop water etc getting inDuncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
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Last edited by DiscoDunc on 31st Mar 2009 4:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total
31st Mar 2009 3:51 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
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That must be quite some trick Dunc
31st Mar 2009 3:54 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
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New form or projectile vommiting???
31st Mar 2009 4:05 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
I dont know what you are talking about Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
I agree with you guys about the need to seal off the pipes to stop water getting into the engine - hence using the air-duct (B) to close off the feed to the the engine (C).
As for the air-filter box, I just removed the element and lid and put them to one side. Then before re-assembling checked for water in the bottom of the box.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
Or just give it a quick rinse out after every wading trip to stop it getting too bad again. Well that's what my intentions are - at the moment anyway LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
31st Mar 2009 7:31 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73079
MrH wrote:
I just removed the element and lid and put them to one side.
The wonders of being able to edit your previous posts LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
31st Mar 2009 7:56 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73079
31st Mar 2009 7:57 pm
npinks
Member Since: 30 Jan 2008
Location: Leeds
Posts: 1943
i was thinking of spraying some snowfoam (i use this on my body work to loosen dirt), from my foam lance onto my radiator to clean the loosen the muck out of it, as it will and cling to it and work away for 10 minutes or so
then rince down with a open flow of water
would there be any problem doing this? ( i can't be bothered to dismantled the freelander engine) as i seem to think my radiator fan kicks in more often than i think it should
Not sure, but I don't think it would penetrate far enough from the front of the radiant/intercooler to get right through the veins - it didn't work on the D3 when I simple rinsed the rad etc from the front.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
31st Mar 2009 8:31 pm
philhunt
Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: MI5 not 9 to 5
Posts: 1761
Really helpful instructions Mr H
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