Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
Suspension fault (IID tool available)
I had some issues with the suspension.
It started with a yellow light and special programs didn't work. I could lower the car once, in front, after that nothing worked.
After i got stuck in snow with the car it liftet up to super extended mode at the rear end.
I had no diagnostics and time, so i justed left the car for some weeks alone. There are small leaks at the front bags, so the car was very low after 4 weeks in front, still high in the back.
With the iid tool i tested the valved, i can jack the car up in front, but can't lower in the back.
The compressor is okay, i dissasembled the whole thing and checked before i got stuck in the snow. AMK kompressor, new relais.
The failurecode i get and can't delete is:
C1A00-D (AF) Control module - General electric failure - circuit current out of range
Earlier i had:
C1A74-1C (2E) Rear left height sensor mechanism - General electrical failure - circiut voltage out of range
When i am in Live Values and "stretch" the sensor arm, it changes values perfectly. However the value is never stabile, always jumping 1 up and down.
Since i can't lower the rear i guess there is a problem with the valve block?
Where can i get wiring diagrams? I'd gladly pay for these!
If i forgot something, just tell me.
13th Mar 2018 7:35 pm
torque1st
Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
I also have failures at Cell Phone, Engine, HeadLight, Instrument Pack, Transfer Case, Vehicle Dynamic and Ventilation. All these are some sort of lost communication faults.
My radio is in permanent Phone Mode after it was parked so long.
____________________
Edit:
Just did a Hard Reset, but didn't help.
I now get this failure too:
C1A00-54 (AF) Control Module - System programming failure - missing calibration
13th Mar 2018 7:53 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
there is a big loom by the back drivers side wheel , if urs is LHD , the loom runs to the back, by the air compressor silencer there is a large connector plug , this loom also goes to the rear valve block
this loom can rub against the chassis and cause a break in the wire
hope that helps a little
13th Mar 2018 9:46 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
I'll check these connections behind the battery, very good idea. I have seen horrible pictures of what they can look like.
I'll check out te connection in the back too.
The thread will be updated then.
We had a cold long and hard winter up here, one month parking did it's jobb, the car i a little moist inside, so i placed a heater fan inside yesterday and will let it run some days.
____
i actually read the whole article you linked to earlier last month - nice reminder
14th Mar 2018 7:57 am
torque1st
Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
The fault was pretty logical.
The contact on the rear valve block wasn’t mounted correctly. while trying to stick it on i realised it wasn’t possible. The seal inside had swolen up. Removed the seal, plugged in, light is gone and calibrated height! Car is like new
Thanks for all the inputs. Now i have to look at the coolant temperature problem, instrument problem and the transfer case problem. 😂
Last edited by torque1st on 17th Mar 2018 9:52 pm. Edited 1 time in total
17th Mar 2018 9:47 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
good to hear that’s one fault down
sounds daft but would it be worth plugging the iid back in to see what other faults come up and try and steer u in a more accurate direction
maybe some damp , etc has got into one of those ecus hidden behind the battery , or bad connections on one of the pins ???
17th Mar 2018 10:55 pm
torque1st
Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
I started reading about the issues already. Really want my outside temperature back and a warm engine...
17th Mar 2018 10:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
oh blimey didn’t think about that and know u get real winters
did try and search but alas couldn’t find anything that may have been useful to u, that’s the only thing i can think of is those ecus behind the battery
17th Mar 2018 11:06 pm
torque1st
Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
I guess my transfer case ecu is broken. One PIN was green, so i guess there is some damage inside that bad boy...
The engine ECU looked good.
Are there more ECUs behind the battery!?
17th Mar 2018 11:11 pm
torque1st
Member Since: 14 Dec 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 97
The button on the left shouldn’t be red when activated right?
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