pippin
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: Horsholm or Birmingham
Posts: 46
  
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| Post wiring fix codes (suspension and brakes) |
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I did some wiring fixes on the Fuel pump loom a couple of weeks ago, and after bringing it down from the stands I picked up some suspension faults.. finally bit the bullet and purchased and IID
So dash lights Im showing check brake light, and if I try to raise the suspension the back starts but the front is slow. Ive checked the compressor and its not overheating, but about 3 seconds into raising the suspension I get a fault and "normal height only".
Pulled out the front valve block and checked the connections, all seemed ok but still happening.
What are the chances its the wiring? I loose the loom into the engine area so it looks like it will be fun to trace.
Other option is valve seals which isnt costly but thought I would check with all the experts before spending some money.
Also any advice on why the fuel sensors are playing up would be great - dropped the tank today and DMM the wiring, all with good resistance.
Audio System
U1A03-62 (2B) Vehicle configuration parameter - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
( at 345178 km )
Body Control
B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( at 345170 km )
B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( at 345170 km )
Engine TDV6
P02A7-00 (2F) Cylinder 4 balance - fuel trim at minimum limit
P029A-00 (2F) Cylinder 1 balance - fuel trim at maximum limit
Suspension
C1A32-01 (AF) Front right corner valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
( at 345178 km )
Vehicle Dynamic
U0132-87 (0B) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( at 345178 km )
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 2nd Mar 2018 9:43 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
 
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Code says electrical. (Maybe you caused this while working in it)
But slow to rise is Normally seals, leak or compressor.
What you mean dash shows check brake light?
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| 2nd Mar 2018 10:00 pm |
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pippin
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: Horsholm or Birmingham
Posts: 46
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That was my fear, it was something I knocked or broke. Trying to find which bit of wiring is a real pain!
Dash started to give me check brakes and yellow dash light (with no error codes coming up) about the same time as the suspension started to play up.
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| 2nd Mar 2018 10:20 pm |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
 
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Plenty of electrical faults can mean a failing battery or loose battery connections.
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| 2nd Mar 2018 11:25 pm |
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pippin
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: Horsholm or Birmingham
Posts: 46
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I’ll put it on charge tonight and see where it gets me, the connections aren’t rock solid but to add to my woes today I now have fluctuating revs when I accelerate in cold starts - seems to clear after 15 minutes but it’s a jerky ride the first time it came on!
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| 3rd Mar 2018 2:15 pm |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
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Throttle is controlled electronically. Battery terminals need to be tight
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| 3rd Mar 2018 10:28 pm |
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pippin
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: Horsholm or Birmingham
Posts: 46
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This is turning in to a really fun win a new issue competition!
Check Brakes Warning - found that the front sensor was rubbing against the rim and went down to the wire. Cut and tied together - didnt clear the warning light (back sensors were ok)
Fuel Gauge - checked the wiring, all ok with the exception that I have 2 red wires and no idea which one should go to which (my fault) but cant seem to get the gauge to come back.
FBH - Thats now out because of no fuel (im assuming)
now a new symptom of rev fluctuations when from 1500 rpm (in park or driving) clears when the engine seems to warm up but needs restarting!
Wish I had left the original fix in place rather than trying to get cleaver with a soldering iron!
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| 4th Mar 2018 9:24 pm |
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