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Oil Pump Check - how much to dismantle?
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3
Oil Pump Check - how much to dismantle?

I've got a full timing belt kit to do soon, but this morning I want to check the oil pump, to see if the early or later type, so If I need one I can get it before I do the belt job.

The Disco is 2007, but had a new engine from Land Rover in Oct 2010. Could it be the later pump?

Any way, how much stuff do I need to take off, to view the oil pump? I've got the fan off, and the aux belt, but would prefer not to drain the water, as I need the car later.

this mornings effort so far-
Click image to enlarge
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186073623rd Sep 2017 10:01 am
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geoff.
 


Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531

England 

contary to what some say your need to remove the front cover to check it properly Thumbs Up

all 3 pulleys off , top aux belt tensioner ,and coolant hoses, then remove all the front cover fixing bolts and pull out the way and check Thumbs Up


ps you shouldnt lose to much coolant if your careful
 

Last edited by geoff. on 23rd Sep 2017 10:08 am. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #186074123rd Sep 2017 10:07 am
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Cheers Geoff. So I can't see without letting the water out? Sad
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186074223rd Sep 2017 10:08 am
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geoff.
 


Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531

England 

just be care full and you won't lose to much Thumbs Up
  
Post #186074323rd Sep 2017 10:08 am
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Thumbs Up
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186074423rd Sep 2017 10:09 am
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

This is what I found. Later type pump I think? Geoff.?

Didn't have to take off the smaller water hose. Very Happy


Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186075923rd Sep 2017 11:14 am
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geoff.
 


Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531

England 

Thumbs Up
  
Post #186076123rd Sep 2017 11:18 am
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

I'm tempted to do the belt now I'm so far in, but I dont have a locking pin kit. Big Cry
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186076323rd Sep 2017 11:22 am
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Flack
 


Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6224

England 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Just use two drills it will do the job for you.

Flack Thumbs Up
  
Post #186076723rd Sep 2017 11:39 am
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disco4ever
 


Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402

Germany 2012 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

as much as I rememeber those drills need to be a little less than 6 mm
 Achim

own garage certified LR tech

Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012 
 
Post #186084523rd Sep 2017 3:08 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

5.8mm Thumbs Up
 My D3 Build Thread

TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread 
 
Post #186085723rd Sep 2017 3:41 pm
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

I thought the locking pin kit would be more extensive than two pins! Good, I'll turn a couple up at work this week, get a new aux belt guide pulley (bit of bearing noise found) and do that belt kit soon.

Thanks Geoff for the chat earlier, very useful. Thumbs Up

All back together now, running sweetly. Now I'm less worried about the oil pump!
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186087223rd Sep 2017 4:12 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

Locking kits aren't expensive on eBay should u wish to remove starter and lock crank
  
Post #186091423rd Sep 2017 6:29 pm
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rrhool
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Thumbs Up Just ordered one, not even worth me turning the pins myself!
 Richard


D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.



Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone 
 
Post #186092523rd Sep 2017 6:50 pm
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Tripe
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285

Australia 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

I found it easier to drain all the coolant out of the engine, capture it in a bucket and place to the side, and when you refill the engine you know how much has to go back in. If you don't already know, there is a procedure for clearing all air locks in the coolant system, if you don't get the correct volume of coolant back in you can risk overheating the top of the block.

like Disco Mikey says, all you need is two correct sized drill bits to lock the top cams, and the bottom crank can be marked with paint marks (even though when I did it, I made a simple piece of flat bar to lock the crank into position) . Everyone stresses out about a belt change, but I found it very straight forward, and was not as hard as replacing EGR valves.

Make sure you have a good calibrated low torque wrench, no shortage of people who have had problems on this forum when things have broken at a later date, which most likely are linked to over tensioning of bolts.
  
Post #186104824th Sep 2017 12:26 am
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