Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Penrith
Posts: 143
Crankshaft locking position
Quick question:
When removing the starter motor and locking the crank position on the 2.7 TDV6 engine, is there more than one locking hole on the flywheel? I've read something that mentioned 'use the first locking position'.
26th Jun 2017 12:43 pm
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
Only one For auto
26th Jun 2017 1:11 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
There are a few balance holes in the flywheel, which the tool will fit
Align the cams first, the crank position won't be far away from there My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Penrith
Posts: 143
Many thanks!
26th Jun 2017 6:02 pm
Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
Lightly grease the tool too - it makes inserting much easier.
(no smut intended )New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
26th Jun 2017 10:25 pm
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
BrettKaz wrote:
Only one For auto
Officially retired from answering seemingly simple questions (I could swear mine has only 5 holes at that radius)...
27th Jun 2017 3:24 am
gilesharrison
Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Penrith
Posts: 143
I've now got my starter motor moved out of the way so I can see the edge of the flywheel.
As,I've mentioned in a previous post, I have problems with my timing so I'm sort of ignoring the old timing.
My two cam pulleys were a significant amount out. When I placed one locking pin in, the other cam was about 30 degrees out. The crank pulley has two sets of paint marks in very different places.
When looking at the flywheel and trying to insert the locking tool, I'm sort of between two holes. By moving the flywheel, I can get the tool into either hole although one of them seems to align a bit easier. I imagine that's the right hole to go for but I'd like a bit of reassurance.
When I'm looking through the starter motor hole at the flywheel, I can see a low hole, another hole about 50mm higher up, then a bolt about another 50mm higher than that. It is the low hole which seems to align best with the tool.
What do you think?
27th Jun 2017 11:30 pm
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
Please see attached photo of reverse of flexplate....99% sure timing pin hole in 'locked' position but as you can see on mine there are only 5 holes at that radius (at least I am not going mad).
28th Jun 2017 2:14 am
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
sorry found my crop function ... maybe those other 3 grouped holes are at the timing pin radius. I can confirm they are not anything to do with the timing.
28th Jun 2017 2:22 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
Isn't the orange dot holes where the torque converter bolts to the flex plate so these holes are not available because they have bolts in them when doing a normal belt change with everything in place.
Garry
28th Jun 2017 8:44 am
gilesharrison
Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Penrith
Posts: 143
That's great. Thanks very much for doing those pictures.
Looking at your picture, I think I'm in the right hole. Above the blue arrow is another hole, Then there seems to be a dark spot slightly higher up again, maybe this is the back of the bolt/ stud I'm seeing?
I'm might turn it a little just to check that those grouped set of three holes are there as you show - this would reassure me I'm in the right place.
Thanks again.
28th Jun 2017 8:53 am
gilesharrison
Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Penrith
Posts: 143
garrycol wrote:
Isn't the orange dot holes where the torque converter bolts to the flex plate so these holes are not available because they have bolts in them when doing a normal belt change with everything in place.
Garry
Ah - that changes things a bit. So maybe I could be in the set of three grouped holes. If so, my crackshaft would be about 90 degrees out. Car was running ok (bit smoky when cold, injectors values a off).
Could the flex plate have been removed in the past and refitted incorrects? Is the flex plate keyed to the crackshaft to prevent this?
28th Jun 2017 8:57 am
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
The blue arrow is the timing pin hole. The dots are where the TC bolts are.... As noted by Gary. Ignore the three grouped holes.
I am retired from offering tech opinion due to ing Up so many but in OJ style ... If it was my motor. ... I would centre the hole (in the timing aperture) on what you note above as the upper bolt (in the photo the one at about 2.15 with the timing pin at 3 o'clock).
I would then rotate the crank (in hour hand clock terms) about 45 mins and the timing pin hole should come into view. If you rotated 1 hour in hour hand terms then you have gone too far and should definitely ignore any past that point. My money is on the one 5cm from the 'upper bolt' which I think is about 45 mins in clock terms... I.e. Not the one you have settled on as being correct.
Last edited by BrettKaz on 28th Jun 2017 10:41 am. Edited 1 time in total
28th Jun 2017 9:17 am
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
The flexplate can not fitted incorrectly. You can stare at it all day and swear all the holes are the same distance apart... Until you fit it and they aren't... There is only one way to fit it...
28th Jun 2017 9:27 am
gilesharrison
Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Penrith
Posts: 143
BrettKaz wrote:
The blue arrow is the timing pin hole. The dots are where the TC bolts are.... As noted by Gary. Ignore the three grouped holes.
I am retired from offering tech opinion due to ing Up so many but in OJ style ... If it was my motor. ... I would centre the hole (in the timing aperture) on what you note above as the upper bolt (in the photo the one at about 2.15 with the timing pin at 3 o'clock).
I would then rotate the crank (in hour hand clock terms) about 45 mins and the timing pin hole should come into view. If you rotated 1 hour in hour hand terms then you have gone too far and should definitely ignore any past that point. My money is on the one 5cm from the 'upper bolt' which I think is about 45 mins in clock terms... I.e. Not the one you have settled on as being correct.
Right, excellent advice - much appreciated. I'll look at this soon and report back. I'm thinking that my flex plate is slightly different to your and has an extra hole.
Obviously I'll turn the engine over by hand a couple of full revolutions before I attempt to start it.
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ing Up so many but in OJ style ... If it was my motor. ... I would centre the hole (in the timing aperture) on what you note above as the upper bolt (in the photo the one at about 2.15 with the timing pin at 3 o'clock).
