raymondoLR
Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: west midlands
Posts: 18
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Cost of Turbo unit on Land Rover Discovery 3 2009 |
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Can anyone give me an idea of how much a turbo unit and labour should be. I'm been given so many different figures.
And is it a Body Off job as I'm being told that it is.
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19th Jun 2017 11:30 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1786
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2.7 single turbo?Quite a few on here had that done, I did it a few years ago, B tch of a job!
From memory - turbo around £800 (shop about) Indi about £1500 LR dealer £3K.
The body doesn't have to come off but its very awkward from below
Whats the problem? Is it defo the turbo or poss just a sticking actuator giving the ESF on dash?
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19th Jun 2017 3:58 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
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You can get a recon turbo for £350 in birmingham
www.bestpriceturbos.com
or something like that
they fit them too
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19th Jun 2017 4:04 pm |
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raymondoLR
Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: west midlands
Posts: 18
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My mechanic quoting 1700 with labour but warranty company saying it's only 550 for part and 5 hour labour. My mechanic wants to take body off for peace of mind to do job properly.
Checked the acctuator and that was fine. EGR fine.
Eml saying turbo.
Symptoms Black smoke hardly any acceleration. No power belowe 2.5 revs.
Driving me mad going from pillar to post. Only brought from dealer in march 😣
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19th Jun 2017 4:11 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
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It's normally a split in the rubber hoses
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19th Jun 2017 6:10 pm |
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Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
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Having a go at replacing the cross over pipe on my car I've removed the egr valve and cooler which wasn't that hard to be honest, I think you'd need to do that and the downpipe again not that hard, you can remove the gearbox crossmember by supporting the transfer box. My downpipe came off ok. At that point it looks fairly straightforward to get the turbo off. I'm probably way off it's just my observation. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
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19th Jun 2017 6:29 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
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Yeah it's deleted
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19th Jun 2017 7:54 pm |
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UtilityGuy
Member Since: 26 Mar 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 343
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New Turbo is about £400, you can get a good indie to fit it for about £400-£600
Talk to DiscoMikey in here, hes up north north, but his costs would make the trip very worth while,
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20th Jun 2017 7:54 pm |
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JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
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raymondoLR wrote: Only bought from dealer in march 😣
Why have you not taken it back to the dealer to fix?
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20th Jun 2017 9:40 pm |
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raymondoLR
Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: west midlands
Posts: 18
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That's where we are at the moment. Trying to get dealer to sort as he said it can be done in 1k and my mechanic 2k which I think is daylight robbery..
If there is anyone out there in Midlands please pm me if you know anyone who can do
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29th Jun 2017 8:17 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
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raymondoLR wrote:My mechanic quoting 1700 with labour but warranty company saying it's only 550 for part and 5 hour labour. My mechanic wants to take body off for peace of mind to do job properly.
Checked the acctuator and that was fine. EGR fine.
Eml saying turbo.
Symptoms Black smoke hardly any acceleration. No power belowe 2.5 revs.
Driving me mad going from pillar to post. Only brought from dealer in march 😣
5 hours
You can get a turbo for £550, but it wouldn't be something I would recommend or supply.
New OEM unit, or hand the car back/ger finance company involved My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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29th Jun 2017 9:10 am |
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carbore
Member Since: 06 Apr 2016
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 545
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OK, I had a turbo replaced recently.
"the book" that Garages and Warrant companies use as the guide says something like 6.5 Hours, without needing the body off. However from what I hear there are very few people that can actually do it in that time, especially if they have not done it before. Maybe a few of the specialists who have the process down pat.
My local independent all makes garage is very technical (Motorsport etc) and they said it was a horror, had to make tools and such. We did a deal on the labour price as im a good customer/friend etc.
So basically people who says its thousands are not taking the Mickey, its probably going it take them that long. If you can get a landrover dealer to commit to the book time you might actually save some money!.
If not then a trusted indie recommended by this forum is the place to go. Good luck.
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1st Jul 2017 3:33 pm |
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raymondoLR
Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: west midlands
Posts: 18
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Quick update. The car was sent back to dealers choice of garage.
He is not convinced it's the turbo???!?!?.
He says the accauto arm was stuck hence the eml light and black smoke. He released this check EGR. Turbo hose etc. All is fine.
However car still drives like it's towing a truck. After 50mph the car drives fine like turbo is working.but below that we have performance issues lagging etc.
He said he has exhausted all his option.
Any advice anyone.
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5th Jul 2017 9:20 pm |
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carbore
Member Since: 06 Apr 2016
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 545
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Hi, you might not want to hear this but I still think its turbo, specifically actuator/variable vanes.
Because:
When I had my turbo issue it first manifested itself as an ESF warning when towing up a hill. Stopped restarted and the car was "ok" but felt not quite right. After that I drove it for 3 weeks, trying to feel the fault, but no repeat of the ESF although it still felt down on power. Next time I towed, again ESF warning on a hill. Restart and again "ok" but a bit down on power. Took to garage, fault codes were Turbo.
Technical Reasoning:
The Disco turbo is variable vane, this means that the vanes "shape" the boost for specific engine load events.
When inspected my Turbo was clean and span, not clogged with carbonisation or burnt out and stuck. So my Turbo was providing boost, also the actuator rod was not corroded or seized so it MUST have been the actuator solenoid (and the warranty co paid up!)
So if the vanes are sticking or the actuator is stuck or not fully able to move its full range then your car will drive "ok" when the engine load matches whatever the turbo vane settings are stuck at/limited to, but when you go outside that load site (like towing up a hill) it will all get yucky.
Sadly I dont think you can do any meaningful tests of the actuator on the car (anyone say otherwise?), so I think its down to remove and test or just remove and have a new one ready. Most of the costs are in the labour so I went for a new turbo as opposed to have the waiting or any issues re a repaired unit. If the labour involved wasn't so much, maybe id have been a bot more open to the risk or repair.
By all means re check everything else that might be a cheaper option before embarking on this.
Hope this helps. Disco 3: Lotus Elise S1: Ferguson T20: Audi A2
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6th Jul 2017 6:54 am |
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