Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15208
Previously I had an issue when first drilling through a fibreglass boat hull.
The drill bit would catch and chip off the gel-coat.
I then quickly used a countersink bit prior to drilling and all was then ok.
So maybe pre-countersinking is the way to go.
Btw, I'd also use a bit of masking tape on both sides.🏴
Cobalt drills usually will go through 316 or 318 plate.
Providing you don't spin the drill too fast.
When you "go" for the drills max speed & push like mad you'll dull the drill tip & harden the specific place your trying to drill.
Get of of jail trick....
If you've another cobalt drill bit the same size (or half a mm up or down) try again but drill speed slower.
The you tube video is quite good....it mentions 135 degree drill bits which if search a good engineering suppliers you may find:
The blunted drills can resurrected (if your keen enough) by regular grinding wheel re sharpening.
Everywhere you will read - go slowly - let the drill do the work
Just be careful as the drill breaks through it will grab.
Hold your workpiece down in some way....BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
I has problems with using tape due to remnants of previous tape - must have been military grade, would not shift - so had to drill. used old plates as a guide so no danger of slipping.
then found old plate had obviously not been quite straight. chuffing annoying.
not got round to it but will be drilling out the holes and using hollow wall fixings to avoid metal/metal contact..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
18th May 2017 10:02 pm
FISHBOY
Member Since: 06 Sep 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 754
LT wrote:
I've used the lay flat on a piece of wood, pilot hole, then larger hole method many times.
The only variation, which might well make absolutely no difference whatsoever, is that I put tape around the drilling point. Someone told me to that when I was 16 and fixing my moped number plate.
Exactly what I do
Did hundreds like that when I worked at Halfords many moons agoLast of the D4 HSE...
19th May 2017 8:13 am
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
neatest is drill from front to back but you risk ripping the white/yellow numberplate layer on the back of the polycarb (or whatever it is) - so do apply masking tape on the back to hold the white/yellow numberplate layer together in one piece as the drill bit comes throughSteve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
19th May 2017 10:36 am
adam
Member Since: 20 Sep 2005
Location: Home and Happy
Posts: 6917
Job done - small pilot hole with dremmel, 5mm bit thereafter - looks great - rear was very faded
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum