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Drilling holes in a new number plate
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ronp
 


Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15208

United Kingdom 2014 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Previously I had an issue when first drilling through a fibreglass boat hull.
The drill bit would catch and chip off the gel-coat.
I then quickly used a countersink bit prior to drilling and all was then ok.
So maybe pre-countersinking is the way to go.
Thumbs Up
Btw, I'd also use a bit of masking tape on both sides.
 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿  
Post #181649518th May 2017 6:51 pm
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BLFarrar
 


Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222

France 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Lugano TealDiscovery 3
Drilling SS

Cobalt drills usually will go through 316 or 318 plate.
Providing you don't spin the drill too fast.
When you "go" for the drills max speed & push like mad you'll dull the drill tip & harden the specific place your trying to drill.

Get of of jail trick....
If you've another cobalt drill bit the same size (or half a mm up or down) try again but drill speed slower.

Info:
http://www.ttp-hard-drills.com/vid-stainless-steel-drilling.html
http://www.drill-hq.com/2012/08/how-to-dri...ess-steel/

The you tube video is quite good....it mentions 135 degree drill bits which if search a good engineering suppliers you may find:



The blunted drills can resurrected (if your keen enough) by regular grinding wheel re sharpening.

Everywhere you will read - go slowly - let the drill do the work
Just be careful as the drill breaks through it will grab.
Hold your workpiece down in some way....
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Post #181657918th May 2017 9:45 pm
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Hardware
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: Hiding under the M60
Posts: 12676

United Kingdom 2011 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 XS Auto Sumatra BlackDiscovery 4

I has problems with using tape due to remnants of previous tape - must have been military grade, would not shift - so had to drill. used old plates as a guide so no danger of slipping.

then found old plate had obviously not been quite straight. chuffing annoying.

not got round to it but will be drilling out the holes and using hollow wall fixings to avoid metal/metal contact.
 .


Dean
====================================

2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
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Post #181658118th May 2017 10:02 pm
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FISHBOY
 


Member Since: 06 Sep 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 754

United Kingdom 2014 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Indus SilverDiscovery 4

LT wrote:
I've used the lay flat on a piece of wood, pilot hole, then larger hole method many times.

The only variation, which might well make absolutely no difference whatsoever, is that I put tape around the drilling point. Someone told me to that when I was 16 and fixing my moped number plate.


Exactly what I do Wink

Did hundreds like that when I worked at Halfords many moons ago
 Last of the D4 HSE...  
Post #181666219th May 2017 8:13 am
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SN
 


Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710


neatest is drill from front to back but you risk ripping the white/yellow numberplate layer on the back of the polycarb (or whatever it is) - so do apply masking tape on the back to hold the white/yellow numberplate layer together in one piece as the drill bit comes through
 Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)   
Post #181671419th May 2017 10:36 am
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adam
 


Member Since: 20 Sep 2005
Location: Home and Happy
Posts: 6917

United Kingdom 

Job done - small pilot hole with dremmel, 5mm bit thereafter - looks great - rear was very faded
  
Post #181717520th May 2017 5:21 pm
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