Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 5
Rear Upper control arm bolt removals without lifting body
I'm replacing both rear upper control arms and have two rear 21 mm bolts obstructed by the body mounts. Read on here that someone had a similar problem and they had to jack the body from the chasis. Has anyone does this? How do I lift the body off the chasis? I just need to raise it a few inches.
12th May 2017 3:27 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
as mikey says its slotted
your probably have to cut the top bolt tho but being in the usa you can get some bang on rip saw blades that will go through in minutes
12th May 2017 8:37 am
GemelTwister!
Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 5
When you write "slotted" do you mean the obstructing mount is slotted? It's round, don't see any slot. A socket wrench will not fit in there with the mount in the way.
I was able to remove the two other control arm bolts with relative ease.
12th May 2017 1:09 pm
sputnixb51
Member Since: 23 Apr 2013
Location: Morayshire
Posts: 833
They mean the chassis bracket for the bolt that goes through the arm bush is slotted so that when you have loosened the bolt a bit the arm can then be lifted out of the bracket slot. So you don't have to lift the body or try to remove the body mount.
12th May 2017 5:58 pm
GemelTwister!
Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 5
ok, I'm going to give this a try! Will need to purchase a 21 mm wrench , hopefully it wont round off the bolt.
12th May 2017 6:14 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
Did the top rear arms today, no problems with these bolts, you can't
Get a socket in, you need to use a spanner and hook another one to
Act as a cheater!!!
The only tip on the compressor Side, Removed the knuckle camber bolt first and the push both the rear bolts through, so the toe of the bolts is clear of the flange, lift the rear arm clear of
The flange ( there a gap) and pull it out horizontal(ish) about 4 inches(ish), with this angle, the front bolt should push out enough and mis the compressor plastic case.
As for setting toque settings, it's impossible to get a torgue wrench in
Just use German tension "sniceandtight"
13th May 2017 2:15 pm
GemelTwister!
Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 5
Thanks for the advise! Those rear bolts are not budging and I'm afraid I may need to cut them off. A standard wrench will round them off. Never used a snapper and hook tool, will seek that first before screwing it up. Just in case I need to cut, replacement bolts are in order. I've read on this forum others have had to cut them off as well. I had to do that for the front ones.. not fun.
16th May 2017 2:43 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I had 6 weeks driving across America last year, after having -9 C in buffalo and Cleveland, it's no surprise that US LR3s ( + euro D3s) suffer from salt corrosion on those bolts.
My car is 10 yo and they came out with no problems
A electric sabre saw with good quality metal blades should do the job
17th May 2017 2:09 am
GemelTwister!
Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 5
I got the bolts to budge.. now they are spinning with the defective bushing and wont come out. Taking the saw to it tonight. Knuckle camber bolt seized to bushing on one side (wont come out) and broke on another. Looks like I'll have to replace the knuckle bushing too after butchering it..
It amazes me how an 11 year old car can have so much rust.. but I have a feeling the metal composition of the bolt & bushing reacts to fuse together in time regardless.
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bang on rip saw blades that will go through in minutes 
, hopefully it wont round off the bolt.
