Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Intermittent Suspension Issue
I threw this out at the other forums to no good resolution so I thought I'd bring it to you all.
First, I realize a GAP tool would be helpful to getting to the bottom of this, but I would like to see if first anyone else has experienced the same problem. The closest remedy I could find was on the Range Rover forums where someone had inadvertently placed the vehicle into Transport Mode.
Most of the suspension components are new. Four air shocks, newer front and rear valve blocks. I have a spare compressor but didn't want to install because of the firmware refresh. The compressor appears to be doing a fine job airing everything up.
But I get intermittent failure of the suspension system, whereby the orange raise/lower lights behind the shifter will flash in unison and then go solid. The vehicle will raise to normal height at startup, without my control, then lower to access height at key off, also without my control. The 4x4 info screen also goes black shortly after startup. I'm not 100% sure it's connected, but I also lose 4x4 Hi and Lo control.
A disconnect and reconnect of the battery will restore suspension control once. Next key on, it's usually back to fault mode again.
Experience and education guesses of all kinds are very much welcomed!
16th May 2024 3:59 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 337
Probably not much help, but it sounds like one of these electronic glitches that are common on older vehicles. I'd look at battery health, then try a hard re-set before looking further into any codes and the voltages that are being delivered to the pressure sensor and the height sensors.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
16th May 2024 7:01 am
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Thanks for the reply. The battery is new and I did the hard reset by connecting positive and negative cables per instructions on this forum. But I agree with you. It's definitely a goofy electrical glitch.
16th May 2024 7:32 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 204
Without the benefit of diagnostic codes or being able to look at live data you're shooting in the dark. The reference to Hi/Lo on the transfer box could suggest corrosion on the pins of the TCCM so you might consider popping the cover off and removing the plug to have a look for signs of the green death.
Hope that helps.
16th May 2024 7:56 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 337
Yes, if you intend keeping the vehicle for any length of time, I'd say it is time to invest in a GAP IID Tool, I can't imagine being without one. You may be lucky and find that you simply have an accretion of old faults and that a firmware refresh will solve your problems, but if not, then you will have better data to point you in the right direction.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
16th May 2024 9:45 am
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
I will pull the battery and have a look at the TCCM and go from there. One thing I'm learning with the Land Rover is that nearly everything electrical is interconnected (e.g. brake light switch causing transmission and suspension faults) so it's definitely hard to get to the bottom of the actual cause without diagnostics.
Thanks to the two of you.
16th May 2024 4:59 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Worth mentioning to those who may have no function/intermittent function of the Hi Lo selector:
After numerous attempts, I was able to occasionally get low range to engage via the switch. (By the way, the TCCM and wiring were like the day it rolled off the factory, albeit a bit dustier.)
But it felt to me like something might be interfering with the contact at the switch. I tore it apart down to the PCB and lo and behold there was significant corrosion at the low range contact point on the board. Cleaned it off and I have full control over the transfer case high and low range again.
Regrettably, despite cleaning minor corrosion from the EAS side of the board, it is still presenting the same issue. It does seem to be an insignificant voltage issue but I'll have to wait until I can get a proper scan tool.
20th May 2024 3:39 am
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Just an update.
I fixed a slightly corroded wire connection in the passenger footwell under the foot-skid cover that looked to be factory and taped. It was the only place of all the connections I checked that had some oxidation. Four wires, red with black stripe, converging into one splice (maybe someone here can share what those go to?).
This didn't immediately fix my problem. But when I got the scan tool and software from RSW Solutions, I was able to scan all the computers and clear the codes, mostly "lost communication" codes, and I have been trouble-free since.
13th Jun 2024 7:34 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13876
Hi
Hope u don’t mind me adding as a future reference but behind that front fender wheel arch liner ur also see some earth connections a lot higher up
I’m pretty sure the compressor , TCM and ECM use these earths , I undone the bolt securing them and cleaned the post and eyelet connections using a dremel with a small wire brush attachment , then reassembled using some copperslip
At the same time cleaned the connections near the compressor without using any copperslip
Good to hear u made some progress
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
13th Jun 2024 8:02 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13876
Think the black and red wire goes from the suspensions ECU to the switch panel ref, access height LED, pin 18 top left on the second page , that’s behind ur passenger side footwell kick panel
Hope the wiring diagrams is the same and useful to u
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
13th Jun 2024 8:14 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
That is helpful, thank you. I had downloaded that wiring manual a week or so ago but hadn't really dug into it until you referenced it. Also helpful about the ground points as there are so many! I am in an extremely dry part of the country and thankfully moisture has not been the bane of my LR3.
I think in this case these wires go to the taillights (if I'm judging the diagram correctly) which would make sense being there are two. Not sure why there was a splice here though. I attached photos for reference and showed a before and after of dirty and clean copper.
13th Jun 2024 8:46 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
