Member Since: 05 Dec 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1036
Knocking & Clonking
Whilst I am not qualified to differentiate between a Klunk and a Klonk , the D4 has started to make one or other of theses noises whilst transiting over speed bumps / pot holes.
Could this be indicating new bushes are required???
Car is just over 7yrs old now with 81k on the clock.2000 D2 TD5 - big red tractor no longer with us
2006 D3 - no longer with us and sadly missed
2010 D4 alas no more, but a lovely colour (Nara)
2016 D4 about to depart
2022 DS nearly...........
23rd Mar 2017 1:32 pm
Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
Anti Roll Bar links are a likely cause, had the same thing a few times on an old freelander.. I believe D4's us a similar link.. Straight up ball joint at the top and 90 degree ball joint at the bottom.. easy DIY job and not too expensive..
obviously that's only one likely causes,, could be an number of bushes.
23rd Mar 2017 1:37 pm
L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2080
On my D3 it was the anti roll bar bushes, I couldn't believe the noise with so little play.
23rd Mar 2017 8:08 pm
frenchy
Member Since: 05 Dec 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1036
thanks for the replies.....how should I go about checking them???2000 D2 TD5 - big red tractor no longer with us
2006 D3 - no longer with us and sadly missed
2010 D4 alas no more, but a lovely colour (Nara)
2016 D4 about to depart
2022 DS nearly...........
23rd Mar 2017 11:43 pm
Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
put it on axle stands, remove a Front wheel and slowly and gently jack up underneath the wishbone and look for movement in the ball joints, but to be honest, if they are worn that badly the ball joint boots will more than likely be split.
I think they are around £15 each from AF so might be worth replacing anyway..
Looks like you need LR014145 and associated Nuts.
you'll need a suitable spanner (18mm I think.. ) and an Allen key (6mm I think) to fit into the end of the ball joint stud, I would wire brush them and give them a spray 5 minutes before you start..
Member Since: 05 Dec 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1036
Browny .......STAR - 2000 D2 TD5 - big red tractor no longer with us
2006 D3 - no longer with us and sadly missed
2010 D4 alas no more, but a lovely colour (Nara)
2016 D4 about to depart
2022 DS nearly...........
Having a similar klunking noise on my D4, I thought this looked like a first 'port of call' to solve the clonk as it's seems quite a cheap job to do and can't do any harm anyway.
Has anyone tackled this without jacking up and removing a wheel ? Looking underneath on full lock it all looks pretty accessible with a minor stretch. Does the ARB need support ?
Ordered a pair of the heavy duty links off Steve, should be here soon Morris Dancers: Drinkers with A Dance Problem
28th Mar 2017 3:43 pm
Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
I've done a set on a FL2 with the wheels on, only because I did it on my lunch break at work in the car park..
It's much much easier to remove the wheel, also you don't want to be wedged in there and catch something on the Air suspension and crush something..
Good luck, let us know if it sorts it Disco4 MY16 SDV6 Landmark Black
Disco4 MY12 SDV6 XS Orkney Grey (Gone)
Defender 90 200tdi Completely rebuilt.
28th Mar 2017 3:47 pm
Sniper1
Member Since: 14 Mar 2017
Location: Somewhere near earth
Posts: 75
ROY_H wrote:
Having a similar klunking noise on my D4, I thought this looked like a first 'port of call' to solve the clonk as it's seems quite a cheap job to do and can't do any harm anyway.
Has anyone tackled this without jacking up and removing a wheel ? Looking underneath on full lock it all looks pretty accessible with a minor stretch. Does the ARB need support ?
Ordered a pair of the heavy duty links off Steve, should be here soon
Im not 100% sure on the landrover Disco, but on other vehicles, trying to remove the ARB attachments while the vehicle is still under load, is a sure fire way to the A&E department.
Perhaps the Disco is different, but when an ARB link went on the Jeep it made a big bang, and was impossible to replace on the Trail without jacking the vehicle, and then jacking the ARB i to the right position.
28th Mar 2017 3:59 pm
Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
There generally isn't any load on the ARB if the vehicle is on flat level ground.. or at least there shouldn't be.
Remember they are by definition there to stop body roll on cornering mainly. So no need for load when on flat level ground.Disco4 MY16 SDV6 Landmark Black
Disco4 MY12 SDV6 XS Orkney Grey (Gone)
Defender 90 200tdi Completely rebuilt.
28th Mar 2017 4:14 pm
Sniper1
Member Since: 14 Mar 2017
Location: Somewhere near earth
Posts: 75
Ok, makes sense.
The Jeep we had was highly modified, so perhaps the sway bar was set up different.
Mind you, youd need to make sure the vehicle is level like you say.
28th Mar 2017 4:38 pm
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
Frenchy, If you are driving at walking pace and firmly dab the brakes do you get the clunk? If so, I have always assumed from what I have read on the forum that it is usually the lower suspension arm bushes.
I have this symptom as well as when going over speed bumps and have been putting the job off for a while. If it is just the ARB drop links then I will be a happy man because that is a simple job.
There generally isn't any load on the ARB if the vehicle is on flat level ground.. or at least there shouldn't be.
Remember they are by definition there to stop body roll on cornering mainly. So no need for load when on flat level ground.
Yep, that was my understanding. Unless the wheels are at different heights (e.g. one going over a bump) there should be no load on the ARB.
That's why I wondered what happens if you just jack one side up at a time, surely there'll be load on the ARB.Morris Dancers: Drinkers with A Dance Problem
So, some sunny weather and a dry driveway so I thought it was time to tackle this job.
Two new heavy-duty links courtesy of AF
Car in off-road. Top nut easily accessible, wheel on full lock (note..second time I realised it was easier to tackle it from the back )
18mm combi spanner, 18mm ring spanner, 8mm ring spanner, 8mm socket and ratchet.
Quick squirt of WD40 on all the exposed threads.
Did NOT need an ball-joint splitter as there is no taper ! They fell out once the nuts were undone.
Took about 30 min all told (allowing for being called in for lunch by SWMBO)
Not jacking up meant NO tension on the ARB so all good in that area.
Wasn't sure I'd achieved anything as the old ones didn't seem to exhibit any slackness when I tested them by hand but a quick road trial confirmed that the dreaded clonking had actually disappeared
So, if anyone has the dreaded klunk,clonk....this is a quick and cheap job to try before you go down a more expensive route !Morris Dancers: Drinkers with A Dance Problem
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, the D4 has started to make one or other of theses noises whilst transiting over speed bumps / pot holes.
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