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Torx 50 brake removal options?
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mek
 


Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468

Switzerland 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 5 Seat Manual Tonga GreenDiscovery 3
Torx 50 brake removal options?

Hi

I went to a self service garage today (in Germany) to change front discs and pads. I got one done but not the other because I mangled the T50 bolt.

I'm so annoyed with myself. This garage sucked. On the off chance, I grabbed socket set and general tool box as I left my flat- they had very, and very poor quality few tools - my kit at home is better. I even snapped their half inch t50 bit trying to remove bolt from the drivers side. EUR 85 this charade cost me.

What are my options? I'm aftraid I tried chiseling the bolt off and now it looks hopeless. I might still be able to get my manual impact driver on it though. I have a tap and die set, so drilling it out is an option - is is a tapered thread? Would I end up with no bolt there? I read someone drilled a hole at the edge and centre punched it out, is this a good option?

I do have some replacement bolts I bought with the discs.

Thanks

Andy
  
Post #179317918th Mar 2017 7:05 pm
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zoneout
 


Member Since: 28 Oct 2015
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 39

South Africa 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Chawton WhiteDiscovery 3

I'm a big fan of a manual impact driver (the one which you hit with a hammer). Just make sure it's turned to the "undo" position.

If that doesn't work I would keep at it with a hammer and chisel (on one side/side only, at an angle, trying to turn it anti-clockwise: like the guy who drilled a hole on the edge as you describe). Easy to say from my armchair....

It's not a taper thread.
 

Last edited by zoneout on 18th Mar 2017 7:13 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #179318018th Mar 2017 7:10 pm
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Oswiperus
D3 Decade 


Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1590

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

I had this happen when doing a mates rear brakes. I drilled it with a fairly large drill bit which removed the countersunk head, then removed the disk and surprisingly the rest of the bolt unscrewed by fingers.
 Stu

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Post #179318118th Mar 2017 7:12 pm
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Sharp cold chisel on the very edge of the screw. Big hammer.
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Post #179318318th Mar 2017 7:14 pm
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Flack
 


Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6232

England 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

You need a 1/2" socket bar on the screw head ( whats left of it) and give it a good few knocks with a big hammer, then try a chisel as suggested above.

Flack Thumbs Up
  
Post #179319418th Mar 2017 7:43 pm
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kev_blizard
 


Member Since: 05 May 2014
Location: worksop
Posts: 244

2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

Also o would recommend putting some heat on it as the stud may be lock tighted in
  
Post #179320318th Mar 2017 7:58 pm
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JDB
 


Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: NW Hampshire
Posts: 2485

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Oswiperus wrote:
I had this happen when doing a mates rear brakes. I drilled it with a fairly large drill bit which removed the countersunk head, then removed the disk and surprisingly the rest of the bolt unscrewed by fingers.


I have used the same method, works!
   
Post #179324818th Mar 2017 9:15 pm
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NoDo$h
 


Member Since: 02 May 2006
Location: Finding new and exciting ways to milk badgers.
Posts: 19689

Ukraine 

Yup, all the thread tensions comes from the countersunk head.
  
Post #179325118th Mar 2017 9:21 pm
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lynalldiscovery
 


Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Metropolis LE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Terrible design, I guess safest bet is new each time.
  
Post #179325218th Mar 2017 9:29 pm
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