Member Since: 15 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 108
Normal height only - hissing from the rear block - help pls
Hi all
I'm getting [Normal Height Only] fault after about 30 seconds of starting the car.
I'm getting air hissing under the rear.
I don't have a ramp - but slid under - it appears to be a leak around the rear valve block.
Q >> Is there a good fault-finding thread here pls - and diagram of how it all goes together under there please <<
Oddly - straight after starting the car - I can raise and lower the suspension just fine.
It also maintains the height selected indefinitely - certainly the [Normal] height after the fail light & message - so sounds like it's not a leak per-se
All thoughts and suggestions gratefully received, thank you in advance.
Dicky
2nd Mar 2017 6:30 pm
Alan B
Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Fife
Posts: 6528
I've got the same, but getting it sorted on Wednesday.
Spoke to disco Mikey today and mine is a cracked compressor cap, he has one in stock for me
D3 57 xs Stornaway grey
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2nd Mar 2017 7:42 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Re: Normal height only - hissing from the rear block - help pls
Dickthebuilder wrote:
Hi all
I'm getting [Normal Height Only] fault after about 30 seconds of starting the car.
I'm getting air hissing under the rear.
I don't have a ramp - but slid under - it appears to be a leak around the rear valve block.
Q >> Is there a good fault-finding thread here pls - and diagram of how it all goes together under there please <<
Oddly - straight after starting the car - I can raise and lower the suspension just fine.
It also maintains the height selected indefinitely - certainly the [Normal] height after the fail light & message - so sounds like it's not a leak per-se
All thoughts and suggestions gratefully received, thank you in advance.
Dicky
have u tried the old fashioned soapy water on all the joints
also as AlanB has said, can be the end cap , reports of them getting a hairline crack between the two pipes
how long does the hissing last please
2nd Mar 2017 9:46 pm
Dickthebuilder
Member Since: 15 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 108
Hi, thanks both
The hissing [stops] when the fault light & message.
Is there a post with a diagram of the compressor & pipes, blocks etc.
Where is a good source of component parts, compressor cap, pipes etc please - thanks again
3rd Mar 2017 7:40 am
Dickthebuilder
Member Since: 15 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 108
That fact You recognized the noise makes it clear, there is a physical failure.
Best Thing is to define it as clear as possible.
The Valve Block is on the near side, so taking of the rear wheels left will anable You to get hands on the valve block.
Doing the soap method or using air-leak-spray, or probably trying to find it acousticly by a kind of stethocope will let ist find You.
But maybe try a visual inspection first, in case the woulb a clear situation of something having damaged the tubes. (Before You wash it with the soap-method)
Maybe it just a tube fitting that slit off.
If its somewhere in the middle of the tube You could use a strait connector afer cutting it in two directly where the damage is (was)
You will need a 6mm connector for pneumatic tubing for a max pressure of not more than 15bar i guess.
(Will cost probably not more than 2-3 € or £...)TDV6MY07-automatic-LHD-noDPF-iidbt-ffrrMod
3rd Mar 2017 2:16 pm
NorthernDisco
Member Since: 01 Feb 2016
Location: North East
Posts: 65
I had a similar problem, the disco kept throwing up suspension faults until finally I could here air rushing out from the chassis on the passenger side. Turned out the air tank along the chassis had rotted through and the compressor couldn't put the air in as quick as it was coming out.
New tank was about £120 not had any suspension problems since
3rd Mar 2017 7:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
northern
hope u don't mind me asking, got to replace my air tank and wondering what kind of job it is please
already got the air tank , inc the new inlet / exhaust silencer and reservoir valve
so that the old bits are sorted out
thks again
3rd Mar 2017 7:51 pm
NorthernDisco
Member Since: 01 Feb 2016
Location: North East
Posts: 65
My fitter did the job and said it wasn't to bad to remove but was a pig to get back on as they must fit the tank to the chassis when they build the car then put the body on afterward. Thus it was difficult to get the spanners in with the body on.
3rd Mar 2017 9:19 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
thks
have also bought new bolts for the tank
when i remove the tank, i intend to also spray the chassis with dinotrol
also got a new reservoir valve, found some brass push fit fittings to replace the voss nut and olive system
so in theory should be easier to fit
put some ptfe onto the threads
just got to get round and fit it all,
3rd Mar 2017 11:26 pm
john watson
Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: lanark
Posts: 956
gstuart
There is full description on how to change the air tank with pictures. Do a search for "air tank" . It looks pretty straight forward, usual advice use plenty of WD40 on the bolts before hand.
4th Mar 2017 9:01 am
rogc
Member Since: 02 Sep 2015
Location: Kent
Posts: 64
Remove the compressor cover 3 bolts, and spray some soapy water around the drier connections, quite common for the cap to split. If your hearing hissing then, cap, hose, connection to compressor or valve blocks. At least you have something to start with, ie hissing.
Here is a link to the system description
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B535yQU5R...sp=sharing
4th Mar 2017 9:58 am
Dickthebuilder
Member Since: 15 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 108
Perfect, thank you
Will reply with my findings
4th Mar 2017 10:47 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
john watson wrote:
gstuart
There is full description on how to change the air tank with pictures. Do a search for "air tank" . It looks pretty straight forward, usual advice use plenty of WD40 on the bolts before hand.
bless u for that
will have a search
as i've never owned a discovery before most of the work i'm doing is unknown , so always good to read up as much a possible before hand
thks again
4th Mar 2017 1:09 pm
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
The main issue I had with changing my air tank was the old bolts rusting and rounding their heads.
Had to cut at least one of them off with a mini hacksaw and use the Irmin extractors as well.
I also gave the new tank a liberal extra coating of paint before fitting it.
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