Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1026
Torque Converter - Info Please
Been reading up on TC's today as now I have a car with one I thought it'd be good to understand what it does. I sort of new from my AA Book of the Car from nearly 40 years ago but found a couple of interesting vid's on YouTube.
My question is what bits inside go wrong and what does Dr Tranny do help a failing one?
15th Feb 2017 8:26 pm
CY
Member Since: 16 Aug 2005
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 4502
Can I hijack your thread to pose a similar question to any resident torque converter specialists?
If one has just spent an arm and a leg replacing the TC and intends to keep the car a long time more, what can be done to prevent failure of this part again over the next 80k miles?2007 Porsche Boxster (987) 2.7
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15th Feb 2017 8:52 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Re: Torque Converter - Info Please
CY wrote:
Can I hijack your thread to pose a similar question to any resident torque converter specialists?
If one has just spent an arm and a leg replacing the TC and intends to keep the car a long time more, what can be done to prevent failure of this part again over the next 80k miles?
Flushing your gearbox oil at certain intervals
15th Feb 2017 8:55 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
First of all, I hope ones warranty paid up after authorising
A flush is advised every 50k, or as low as 30k under certain circumstances (off road driving, towing etc)
Alternatively, a quick drain and refill every service will keep the oil fresh My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
The lock up clutch in the torque converter gets a glazing on it from the old oil/ contaminates travelling round the gearbox and converter.
This causes a judder or surging (or both) when the lock up clutch is partially engaging. It doesn't just go in or out, it allows partial slip.
The function of the lock up clutch is to stop the energy wasted in the natural torque converter slip and create a more direct drive from engine to trans.
In a modern trans they spend a lot of their time only in that partial lock up phase.
Dr trannys seems to get the glaze off the plate or change the friction characteristics to help minimise the problem.
Some reconditioned converters haven't had much work done to the lock up clutch and can later cause problems in that area. I personally only fit a new converter, as if you hunt YouTube to see what's needed to recon a converter properly, I am sceptical a £200 job has had care and love spent on it!
The important thing is....... change the oil, change the oil, change the oil
The ones where the oil has been changed regularly 50k intervals or so, I haven't seen them cause a problem.
Also I would consider a box rebuild as well on anything above 120,000 that hasn't had regular changes. Don't get me wrong, a converter might work ok, but you are on borrowed time with the box, and gamble having to do the whole job again!
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15th Feb 2017 10:11 pm
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1026
Thanks for the replies.
So having had probably its first oil change at 130k miles and currently working well, is it worth adding Dr Tranny now to ward off potential glazing? Or wait until problems do occur?
15th Feb 2017 10:46 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
I wouldn't put it in unless a problem.
Regards
Steve
16th Feb 2017 6:31 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
Yeah I wouldn't add Dr Tranny until you have problems.
I put 1 tube in and am now getting a violent downshift on kickdown.
Loads of people have had great results with the stuff, but best not to add before required
16th Feb 2017 1:13 pm
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1026
Great, thanks for all the info chaps.
16th Feb 2017 1:17 pm
Tunny
Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Crewe
Posts: 64
I've seen at Bristol Transmission are currently doing a trial/investigation into the issue of oil change intervals against wear and tear.
16th Feb 2017 1:47 pm
CY
Member Since: 16 Aug 2005
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 4502
Disco_Mikey wrote:
First of all, I hope ones warranty paid up after authorising
Fortunately yes, they did pay out so I wasn't out of pocket very long
Keen to maintain it properly this time and keep it in tip top shape so it doesn't need done again 2007 Porsche Boxster (987) 2.7
2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE G4 Challenge (1 of 68)
2023 Defender 90 D250 X-Dynamic HSE
16th Feb 2017 11:34 pm
d-9
Member Since: 06 Feb 2017
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 132
SteveNorman wrote:
The important thing is....... change the oil, change the oil, change the oil
The ones where the oil has been changed regularly 50k intervals or so, I haven't seen them cause a problem.
Is that the transmission oil, or is it separate for the torque converter?2008 TDV8 Sport HSE
1973 SIII Lightweight
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17th Feb 2017 12:34 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Mine is on 235,000 miles on the original gearbox and Torque converter. Changed transmission oil first time at 83,000 and then at about every 50,000. Only very recently seen the start of the most minor torque converter fluctuation. Also had a couple of unwanted changes in gears so I've just done preventative change of gearbox to much younger fresher one and a brand new Torque converter, refurbished Transfer box with all new bearings, seals etc.
Will find out how that's gone tomorrow when I finish putting the propshafts in and tightening it all up. Lol.
But yes, regular oil changes are the key.
Definitely don't add Dr Tranny unless you've actually had problems with the existing setup and tbh only add that with new oil rather than leaving old cruddy oil in there.Bodsys Brake Bible
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