Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Cooling hoses and thermostat housing replacement HELP
Hi Team,
I have a leak coming from thermostat housing and would like to replace it as well as all the cooling hoses in engine bay,also a new coolant put in, so i don't have to do it twice, down the road.I have the parts and would like to tackle this task tomorrow, if it is doable by regular LR3 user.Is it something that I should be specially aware of or leave it to the pros or not?
i am not worrying about coolant drain or rubber hoses replacement(I don't think there is any specific order in putting a new ones in), but really, bleeding procedure.Also , if i remove hoses from engine bay , would this mean , that i drained all the coolant or just part of it , not counting rear heater hoses? Please help me out if you can guys...Thanks
Bleeding the air out of the engine is pretty easy - I forget the exact procedure- it is documented in the LR manuals avaialble on the net - there is a link on here somewhere - WIKI is a good starting place.
But basically, remove the plastic engine cover - at the front there is a rubber hose with a large, well screw bung thing, in it. Loosen that slightly. Do the same with the one in the top of the expansion bottle.
Fill the cooling system with water/glycol mix and run the engine - the air will be expelled from the top hose - when water comes out, tighten the screw. Water should come over the top hose into the expansion bottle, with more air coming out of the bleed screw there. Top up as required - there is a recommended level to fill it to, but can't think what it is offhand.
But don't take these as gospel - just the basic principle - I'm sure a search will find the exact procedure.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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28th Jul 2012 9:37 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Never bled the coolant but:
Quote:
19 . Loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw.
20 . Loosen the cylinder head bleed hose bleed screw.
21 . Refill the cooling system.
22 . Tighten the bleed screws to 14 Nm (10 lb.ft).
23 . Fill the cooling system, keeping coolant to the upper level mark of the expansion tank, until a steady stream of coolant is seen returning to the tank.
24 . NOTE :
When the coolant bleed is complete and prior to installing the expansion tank cap, top up the expansion tank to 30mm above the maximum level.
Install the coolant expansion tank cap.
25 . WARNING: Release the cooling system pressure by slowly turning the expansion tank cap a quarter of a turn. Cover the expansion tank cap with a thick cloth to prevent the possibility of scalding. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.
Start and run the engine.
Hold the engine speed at 3,000 RPM for one minute.
Return the engine to idle for five minutes.
Hold the engine speed at 3,000 RPM for one minute.
Run the engine until the thermostat opens.
Remove coolant expansion tank cap, allow float to settle and top-up coolant if required. Install cap.
26 . Switch the engine off and allow to cool.
27 . Install the engine cover.
28 . Clean any remaining coolant from the chassis and surrounding area.
29 . Install the radiator access panel.
Tighten the 4 bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
30 . Check and top-up the coolant if required.
Hope this helps.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Thanks , i am just worried about removing all the hoses , what effect would that have on bleeding procedure that is on manual. there is no info on full coolant replacement , hoses replacement and so on....I just wanted to be sure , if there is anything that i should follow specifically while draining, installing new rubber hoses and filling.i will probably have some fluid left in rear heating pipes, that i won't be able to drain completely, unless i open under wheel cover and drain from pipe there?
Same procedure - I replaced the radiator in mine and this works a treat - needed a mearest hit of a further drop of water about a month later.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
28th Jul 2012 1:29 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Is it hard to change a thermostat housing and should I grease the O-rings?
No idea! I've not changed one!Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
28th Jul 2012 9:15 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Mine has just sprung a leak too. dealer could not find the O ring as a separate item. Does the TH come with O rings. They are also talking about the oil cooler might need to be replaced. Make any sense?“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
14th Aug 2012 5:23 am
amazing
Member Since: 05 Mar 2011
Location: chengdu
Posts: 1542
orings should be greased
but not normal grease
use MS4 DOW CORNING SILICONE COMPOUND.It is better to have and not need it then need and not have it.
14th Aug 2012 6:06 am
Big_Mark
Member Since: 12 Jan 2011
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 32
I recently found that my Thermostat housing was warped causing a vapor leak when the car was hot.
I ordered just the thermostat housing (not the entire assembly)when I ordered the new housing I also purchased a new seal.
Well I thought I purchased the seal it turned out to be the wrong one.
It didn't matter though, once I pulled the cover off I found out that the seal was reusable.
I did put some "Right Stuff" sealant (black RTV) in the grove where the seal goes, then I ran my finger around the rim (that sounds really bad) until the seal seated into the groove, this created a very thin film of sealant as well as the rubber gasket lip.
I then put the cover on, held it firmly in place, then torqued the screws/bolts to spec.
Once that was on I put the hoses back on, then waited 30 minutes for the RTV to set. Started it up and no longer have the vapor leak
It seems like these parts sort of get brittle as they age. When I was removing the old thermostat to put it into the new cover the housing where the thermostat seats was brittle and the edges chipped off as I was turning the thermostat out of it.
I was extra careful when I put the thermostat into the new cover, there was no chipping there.
Long story short my problem seems to have gone away after this repair.
Before this I noticed some orange crystallization on the sensor directly above the gap between the therm cover and housing.
I will monitor this area but I think it's done since the engine cover also had a "wet spot" on the front that is now gone.
Keep in mind this is on the 4.4 V8
Before this fix I was smelling coolant from the front of the car after driving, but there was no visible drips or puddles of coolant on the engine, or cover plate. The only clue was the orange crystallization I described above.
Thanks to DISCO3.CO for the awesome user manual downloads this task was definitely simple!"The Apocalypse!" Coming Soon, to a town near you!
21st Aug 2012 4:18 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Thanks Mark
Mine has been fixed. A common fault with all vehicles which use plastic for the thermostat housing I have been told. Only housing leaking connection to oil cooler was ok (they removed and checked the O ring)
First symptom was slow to heat the cabin.
Something to check for everyone I would think.“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
21st Aug 2012 11:31 pm
stevep
Member Since: 16 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 91
Noticed a bit of a wet patch under my car yesterday, upon checking the engine bay it seems I have a small leak from around the thermostat. The valleys of the manifold under the cover have little puddles of coolant in them, all the way to the rear of the engine, which was a bit of a shock! I'm guessing there's a little bit of vapour escaping the thermostat and being blown across the underside of the cover.
Is this a known issue and if so, is there a standard kit of bits to change?
13th Apr 2017 6:37 pm
stevep
Member Since: 16 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 91
Hmm posting that spurred me on to actually taking a proper look.. turned out the top plastic T bleed piece had crumbled inside the hoses. It literally fell apart when touched. So I put a temporary metal fitting in for now.
Do you think these plastic parts that get hot have a known service life when they design the car? Must be lots of this type of parts in there...
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